Nitecore SRT3 duplo + batteries?

KardoPaska · Jul 16, 2014

Sup. I've been a troller for a while, but now I'm posting so I guess you should refer to me as a 1-lumen newb.

So I've been reading reviews recently for a work flashlight and am pretty wishy washy about what's up. Anyways, I picked up a Nitecore SRT3 from REI to get a feel for it, and then I stumbled upon some reviews of the SRT5. The features, bezel dimensions, pictures, XM-L2 T6 etc. seem to be identical (even MSRP) except for the fact that one is longer and accepts 2 cells instead of 1. Cosmetic differences aside, would it be reasonable to fabricate a tube to convert an SRT3 into a two-cell light?

Are the electronics inside different? The Mfr website lists the same LED model (Cree XM-L2 T6) and shows the SRT3 accepts
1 x RCR123 @ 3.7 V
1 x CR123 @ 3.2 V
1 x AA @ 1.2 V

While the SRT5 accepts
1 x economical 18650 @ 3.7 V
2 x CR123 @ 6 V

The common factor is that they both run on a 3.7 V cell... however one spits out 750 lumens with 3.7 V and the other only 550 lumens... Combined with the fact that they are both running at ~$95 MSRP makes me think Nitecore did a smart/lazy business move to create two products out of one. Is this considered "lego'ing"? or should I call it "duplo'ing" hehe

Is it voltage that can damage the electronics? or what?

I have a machinist at work that I can throw a couple beers at and he'll pop out an extension tube for me. Will I break my SRT3 by using 2x CR123 (at 6V in series)? How about with a 14500 cell at 3.7 V?

oKtosiTe · Jul 17, 2014

Perhaps a 17670 is worth considering here.

KardoPaska · Jul 18, 2014

Interesting thought. What do you think about using 2x 3.7V in series in a conversion tube? Will the electronics handle it? or fry?

Will I be able to get the same "modes" as before? (this is with reference to some ppl, including myself, who have thrown in a 3.7V 14500 into a Fenix LD12 and only get turbo mode).

Overclocker · Jul 18, 2014

KardoPaska said:
Sup. I've been a troller for a while, but now I'm posting so I guess you should refer to me as a 1-lumen newb.

So I've been reading reviews recently for a work flashlight and am pretty wishy washy about what's up. Anyways, I picked up a Nitecore SRT3 from REI to get a feel for it, and then I stumbled upon some reviews of the SRT5. The features, bezel dimensions, pictures, XM-L2 T6 etc. seem to be identical (even MSRP) except for the fact that one is longer and accepts 2 cells instead of 1. Cosmetic differences aside, would it be reasonable to fabricate a tube to convert an SRT3 into a two-cell light?

Are the electronics inside different? The Mfr website lists the same LED model (Cree XM-L2 T6) and shows the SRT3 accepts
1 x RCR123 @ 3.7 V
1 x CR123 @ 3.2 V
1 x AA @ 1.2 V

While the SRT5 accepts
1 x economical 18650 @ 3.7 V
2 x CR123 @ 6 V

The common factor is that they both run on a 3.7 V cell... however one spits out 750 lumens with 3.7 V and the other only 550 lumens... Combined with the fact that they are both running at ~$95 MSRP makes me think Nitecore did a smart/lazy business move to create two products out of one. Is this considered "lego'ing"? or should I call it "duplo'ing" hehe

Is it voltage that can damage the electronics? or what?

I have a machinist at work that I can throw a couple beers at and he'll pop out an extension tube for me. Will I break my SRT3 by using 2x CR123 (at 6V in series)? How about with a 14500 cell at 3.7 V?

different driver boards. SRT3 works with AA down to around 0.9v. SRT5 doesn't light up w/ an AA

your best option is to buy ANOTHER extender for the SRT3 then bore out both extenders so that a KeepPower 16650 (sanyo) would fit. this is 2000+ mah so it should give you pretty good runtimes on the SRT3

another option is to bore out the extender and the body to accept an 18500 protected

oKtosiTe · Jul 18, 2014

KardoPaska said:
Interesting thought. What do you think about using 2x 3.7V in series in a conversion tube? Will the electronics handle it? or fry?

Will I be able to get the same "modes" as before? (this is with reference to some ppl, including myself, who have thrown in a 3.7V 14500 into a Fenix LD12 and only get turbo mode).

My fairly uneducated guess is that since this light is not designed to accept voltage that high, it will likely fry the board. I would say a single cell is your safest bet, hence the suggestion.

IrrelevantD · Nov 6, 2014

KardoPaska said:
Are the electronics inside different? The Mfr website lists the same LED model (Cree XM-L2 T6) and shows the SRT3 accepts
1 x RCR123 @ 3.7 V
1 x CR123 @ 3.2 V
1 x AA @ 1.2 V

While the SRT5 accepts
1 x economical 18650 @ 3.7 V
2 x CR123 @ 6 V

.....

Is it voltage that can damage the electronics? or what?

I have a machinist at work that I can throw a couple beers at and he'll pop out an extension tube for me. Will I break my SRT3 by using 2x CR123 (at 6V in series)? How about with a 14500 cell at 3.7 V?

I just stumbled across this looking for answers to the same questions. I can tell you absolutely without a shadow of a doubt that the SRT3 works absolutely brilliantly with a 14500.

I did some measuring on the batteries, and the difference between the 14500 (AA) and a CR123 is right about the same as the difference between two CR123's and a 14500. So... theoretically, if you had two bored out barrel adapters (or a custom), you could fit the same batteries as the SRT5. My question, as is yours, is what is the difference in the driver board and could it take 6v.

Nitecore SRT3 duplo + batteries?

KardoPaska

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oKtosiTe

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KardoPaska

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Overclocker

Flashlight Enthusiast

oKtosiTe

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IrrelevantD

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