Nitecore RCR123A on Surefire?

Hi. I've been using CR123 batts for my Surefire, and looking to use rechargeables on them. What are your experiences in using Nitecore RCR123A batteries (650mAh 3.7V 2.4Wh) on Surefire? Or should I be better off with other brands or specs? Thanks.

What surefire model? Also, most surefire's don't like 3.7 volts, especially if it takes 2. A 3.7 volt rcr123 will charge up to around 4.2 volts. 2 of these would give you 8.4 volts for a light designed to use 6 volts. This is is often too much for a Surefire to handle. It will go into safe mode. So you need to look for a RCR123 that is 3.0 volts. That should work fine. Soshine sells some 3.0 volts that work well in Surefires. They full charge up to about 3.3 volts respectively.

Surefire also sells rechargeable batts that are 3 volts. Pay close attention when shopping.

good luck

Str8stroke said:

What surefire model? Also, most surefire's don't like 3.7 volts, especially if it takes 2. A 3.7 volt rcr123 will charge up to around 4.2 volts. 2 of these would give you 8.4 volts for a light designed to use 6 volts. This is is often too much for a Surefire to handle. It will go into safe mode. So you need to look for a RCR123 that is 3.0 volts. That should work fine. Soshine sells some 3.0 volts that work well in Surefires. They full charge up to about 3.3 volts respectively.

Surefire also sells rechargeable batts that are 3 volts. Pay close attention when shopping.

good luck

Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response. I'm currently using e2d led ultra and e1d led (using SF CR123s), planning on the p3x somewhere along the way. Having read the sticky thread in this subforum, I noticed the 3.7v rating of the Nitecore vs. the one on the SF which is 3.0v, hence I posted. Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep on looking...

Yup, you are on the way. One thing worth mentioning. I am not sure the E1D if it will take a 3.7 volt. I guess I could try tonight. But......If you were to put the E2D head on the single cell body and use one 3.7 volt it would work. Not that you need to, just a cool thing to know. You could get a Vital gear single body and have another short one cell light.
I have the P3X too, fun light. Personally, I would prefer the P1R, it runs on a 18650. Check that out and act fast. surefire is planning on a price increase soon.

Str8stroke said:

Yup, you are on the way. One thing worth mentioning. I am not sure the E1D if it will take a 3.7 volt. I guess I could try tonight. But......If you were to put the E2D head on the single cell body and use one 3.7 volt it would work. Not that you need to, just a cool thing to know. You could get a Vital gear single body and have another short one cell light.
I have the P3X too, fun light. Personally, I would prefer the P1R, it runs on a 18650. Check that out and act fast. surefire is planning on a price increase soon.

Click to expand...

Interesting, haven't tried to "lego" these stuffs. Oh I got my eyes on the P1R too, the 18650 batt is really enticing. OTOH, have you tried using RCR123 on the P3X? How is it?

Yes, I run my P3X with a the following: Triad "Rocket" tail cap with McClicky switch, and Soshine 3 volt batteries. It takes three of them. So with the few extra volts the RCR have and the McClicky give it a gentle boost. It by far is one of my favorite utility lights.

KeepPower 16650. exact same size as 2x CR123A. your LED surefire would most likely stay in regulation for the majority of the runtime

sanyo japanese cell UR16650ZT. much higher capacity than RCR123A/16340 which are the crappiest cells you could use for flashlights i.e. no major manufacturer bothers to do this size

single-cell so no safety issues like you'd have with 2 cells in series. no sudden-OFF like when the protection trips on a 2x RCR123A setup

so basically this is the best option

Thanks for the input Overclocker, I'll check if those 16650 are available here.

Thank you overclocker. I forgot to mention that as well. Great suggestion. xdayv, don't forget if you go that route you need to get a decent charger. Like the Nitecore I4 and the like.

Str8stroke said:

Thank you overclocker. I forgot to mention that as well. Great suggestion. xdayv, don't forget if you go that route you need to get a decent charger. Like the Nitecore I4 and the like.

Click to expand...

I'm actually keeping an eye on the Nitecore I4. Do I need to get the one that is optimized for LiFePO4 charging (for the Surefire LFP)? I read the D4 has this feature.

You won't need it for the 16650, but if you do go the LFP route you might as well spend the extra few bucks and get the D4, with the extra bells and whistles it has. LFPs have been around for a little while, and while there currently is no big rush on them, you never can tell. Since a charger is a one-time purchase that soon pays for itself, go the extra distance and cover all the bases.

xdayv said:

Thanks for the input Overclocker, I'll check if those 16650 are available here.

Click to expand...

yes they are, check your private messages

Str8stroke said:

Thank you overclocker. I forgot to mention that as well. Great suggestion. xdayv, don't forget if you go that route you need to get a decent charger. Like the Nitecore I4 and the like.

Click to expand...

xdayv said:

I'm actually keeping an eye on the Nitecore I4. Do I need to get the one that is optimized for LiFePO4 charging (for the Surefire LFP)? I read the D4 has this feature.

Click to expand...

i4 isn't a decent charger. here's the 2014 version doing ~110mA trickle charge AFTER full charge. no decent charger does that

WOW< Defective unit? I just tested mine, and it doesn't do it? Either I got oddly lucky or something is wrong with the one tested? Have you tested others? Mine is only about a year old.

Str8stroke said:

WOW< Defective unit? I just tested mine, and it doesn't do it? Either I got oddly lucky or something is wrong with the one tested? Have you tested others? Mine is only about a year old.

Click to expand...

It only does it with NiMH batteries, not with LiIon. In my review I recommend removing the batteries within a few hours after it is finished charging.

Hi, sorry for reviving an old thread. But this was the closest similar situation to mine that I've found here.

I just bought the 1000 lumen iteration of the Surefire E2D Defender and I've got the same Nitecore RCR123A cells (650mAh 3.7V 2.4Wh) mentioned by the OP.
I've used them in my new SF light for the last week without any issues and before that I called SF's tech support to ask about using the aforementioned cells in their light. They told me it should be fine as long as the cells are protected, even after i mentioned about the 3.7V compared to 3V on primaries.

I'am checking here just to be sure as I've read different conflicting posts that there are people who've run x2 3.7V RCR123As on their LED SF lights with no issues as well as posts along the lines of that you'll spoil the light if you do.

Thanks!!

If they are really RCR cells, they should be 3.2v. many people don't differentiate between RCR123A cells and regular 16340 Li-Ion 3.7v cells. Unless a device has some VERY sensitive electronics, substituting an RCR123A for a primary CR123A cell should not cause a problem.
Yes, for years Surefire has said that is a no-no, but i think that was just to cover this exact situation, where someone would drip in 15340s instead of CR123As. If they just said absolutely no rechargeable, then they were covered.

[I know it might be 16350 instead of 16340, but I'm too lazy to go check which is right right now]

The term "RCR" is a non-standard and outdated term, I believe.

It was commonly used years ago, when consumer Li-Ion cells were relatively new and unfamiliar.

My understanding is that is does not have a precise definition, apart from " (R)echargeable- " CR123A.

I'm currently using rechargeable KeepPower 16340 protected cells on my 1000lum. E2D LED Defender with no problems with the light, let me tell you this thing is amazing on two SureFire primaries but it's even better with the extra juice. It hasn't been long term yet, so I will have to report back.

archimedes said:

The term "RCR" is a non-standard and outdated term, I believe.

It was commonly used years ago, when consumer Li-Ion cells were relatively new and unfamiliar.

My understanding is that is does not have a precise definition, apart from " (R)echargeable- " CR123A.

Click to expand...

Yup... I have a pair of Orbronic batteries that are labeled "RCR123 3.7V 700mah". :duh2: