dpolseno41
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2014
- Messages
- 3
If you had the chance to design an end all, be all survival light that wasn't large in size, what features would you try to stuff in it?
Designing the End All Survival Light
- Thread starter dpolseno41
- Start date
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High and low modes only, with hidden strobe, SOS, and beacon. High would run for 4 hours, low would run for 48 hours. Run on single CR123, with an extender to allow for AA use. Also make the extender thread onto the body of the light when not in use for storage, and so you wouldn't lose or misplace it. Knurling all over the body, head, and tailcap, with a sturdy pocket clip that would also work for wearing on a baseball hat.
Add a driver with a huge Volt range (and some contact points on the outside) so it can run on a aaa, or easely be wired up to a 12V car battery. Moonlight mode from a car battery will light the "cave" up for a looong time 
flashy bazook
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,139
Why design that which already exists?
Pick one of the Malkoff M60, M60L, or M60LL drop-ins, depending on how high you want your initial lumen count to be.
Get an Elzetta 2x123A body, for tough toughness, with a hi-lo switch.
Done.
Or, if you want to be even cleverer, pick a 3x123A body, which you can then use also in a 2xAA or 2x18500 configuration, thus having an extremely wide choice of batteries.
Elzetta now comes in a 3x123A configuration, but you would need to bore it to use Li-Ions.
Alternatively, use a Surefire 9P compatible style, in LEGO or custom maker form.
You can even add a diffuser option to be able to transform the M60 throw into a floodier beam.
With 2x123A you can keep running (eventually in direct drive) for a long time with very useable light.
With 2x18500 you get quite long regulation before direct drive hits.
Et, voila!
Pick one of the Malkoff M60, M60L, or M60LL drop-ins, depending on how high you want your initial lumen count to be.
Get an Elzetta 2x123A body, for tough toughness, with a hi-lo switch.
Done.
Or, if you want to be even cleverer, pick a 3x123A body, which you can then use also in a 2xAA or 2x18500 configuration, thus having an extremely wide choice of batteries.
Elzetta now comes in a 3x123A configuration, but you would need to bore it to use Li-Ions.
Alternatively, use a Surefire 9P compatible style, in LEGO or custom maker form.
You can even add a diffuser option to be able to transform the M60 throw into a floodier beam.
With 2x123A you can keep running (eventually in direct drive) for a long time with very useable light.
With 2x18500 you get quite long regulation before direct drive hits.
Et, voila!
scout24
Flashaholic
Nice Malkoff variety! They would be the basis for an off-the-shelf answer to the OP's original question, no doubt. I'm running a M60LL on two primaries and a dummy cell in a G3 as a truck and dog walking light right now. Ticks a bunch of boxes as a survival/ zombie light...
I would think a moonlight mode would be nice as well, and +1 on the wide voltage range comment, definitely should run on everything from primaries to Li-Ions. AA to RCR123A at a minimum. Also needs a lockout and/or pure mechanical switch to conserve battery power in standby, alternately minimal standby current draw.
I would design it so that it would meet as many survival needs as possible in a small container. I'm thinking of the altoids tin pocket survival kits.
I would try to meet the following needs:
Fire (MESH metal flint glued to body of light)
tinder (vaseline embedded cotton)
Water purification (Aqua tabs cut in half. 1/2 tab will clean ~12oz water)
water container 12oz - 16oz mylar bag
navigation (compass)
cordage (dental floss)
signaling (whistle, light, fire - smokey fire
)The light could be designed something along the lines of the one at fasttech dot com with sku 1068800 "10-in-1 Multi-functional Outside Survival Emergency Tools Kit" but better.
It would probably be a twisty single AAA light, with a 2AA sized body.
Maybe a single CR123 light with a 3*CR123 body.
The concept would be similar to the
So let's go with a 2*AA sized light. Make it a twisty with a front and rear compartment. Glue a mesh metal to the side of the front half, and use the back half (screwed off) as the striker/scraper for sparks. Wrap a AAA battery with floss, until it is the diameter of an AA battery, or less, and then stuff the rest of the front battery compartment with cotton/tinder. The back half of the light will hold the mylar bag water container, and some water purification tablets, (already cut in half). Maybe a spare battery?
Design the rear battery cap with an integrated whistle, and glue a liquid filled compass to the back. Maybe design the rear battery cap so that it can be inverted and when it is inverted, it might be pointed, and used as a spear.
Unfortuantely this gem doesn't include a knife, or mylar blanket.
The Life+Gear light might be large enough to carry a blanket too, but we are talking about a much larger light, and I don't think that fits into your original requirement of not being large.
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MrNaz
Enlightened
My ultimate survival light would meet the following needs:
1. Be able to produce high output when necessary.
2. Have a low output for basic tasks.
3. Have as long a life as possible on a single battery.
Given the above:
Lighting modes:
1. As small a light as possible that can accommodate an 18650 cell should work with 2x CR123As as well, for shelf life options. My emergency kit would be refreshed every 6 months with a freshly charged 18650, but would also contain 4 CR123As just in case I forget.
2. High efficiency emitter, XML2.
3. High mode, 0.75A, for ~350 lumens and 4h on a battery. Bright enough to light up an area out to 50m, and also to dazzle a charging animal at night.
4. Low mode, 0.05A, for ~25 lumens and 60h on a battery. Plenty bright enough as a general purpose task light.
5. Hidden beacon/SOS modes. Beacon flashes @0.5A, 0.1s spaced every 4s. That will be bright enough to be easily visible at several miles. Well beyond the horizon at sea. It will allow roughly 200 hours of beacon signalling on a battery. Similarly frugal flash pattern for SOS. These modes revealed by twisting the head in the untighten direction.
Design:
1. Of course, it would be made from titanium, with top notch anodising.
2. Crenelated bezel with deeply embedded sapphire glass lens to minimize the chance of damage.
3. The clicky button would be one of those miniature compasses, and recessed a little to allow tailstanding.
4. Fishing wire could be coiled within the battery tube and revealed by unscrewing the tailcap.
5. High quality o-rings all over to allow for full IP67 environmental resistance. No point opening your emergency kit to find that the torch broke or leaked when you threw the emergency kit overboard in your hurry to abandon the burning ship.
Such a light would give excellent run time, be small enough for easy carry, would use a battery that would give a great run time per battery. 0.75A through an XML2 is a LOT of light, and IMHO a good balance between being able to light up the whole mountain and battery life. If you were lost in the woods with just this torch and no spare batteries, by being careful you could make it last a good couple of days, even if you use it for maintaining camp as well as signalling with the beacon all night while you sleep. This would give rescuers plenty of time to find you.
Any buyers on my version of the Ultimate Survival Light?
1. Be able to produce high output when necessary.
2. Have a low output for basic tasks.
3. Have as long a life as possible on a single battery.
Given the above:
Lighting modes:
1. As small a light as possible that can accommodate an 18650 cell should work with 2x CR123As as well, for shelf life options. My emergency kit would be refreshed every 6 months with a freshly charged 18650, but would also contain 4 CR123As just in case I forget.
2. High efficiency emitter, XML2.
3. High mode, 0.75A, for ~350 lumens and 4h on a battery. Bright enough to light up an area out to 50m, and also to dazzle a charging animal at night.
4. Low mode, 0.05A, for ~25 lumens and 60h on a battery. Plenty bright enough as a general purpose task light.
5. Hidden beacon/SOS modes. Beacon flashes @0.5A, 0.1s spaced every 4s. That will be bright enough to be easily visible at several miles. Well beyond the horizon at sea. It will allow roughly 200 hours of beacon signalling on a battery. Similarly frugal flash pattern for SOS. These modes revealed by twisting the head in the untighten direction.
Design:
1. Of course, it would be made from titanium, with top notch anodising.
2. Crenelated bezel with deeply embedded sapphire glass lens to minimize the chance of damage.
3. The clicky button would be one of those miniature compasses, and recessed a little to allow tailstanding.
4. Fishing wire could be coiled within the battery tube and revealed by unscrewing the tailcap.
5. High quality o-rings all over to allow for full IP67 environmental resistance. No point opening your emergency kit to find that the torch broke or leaked when you threw the emergency kit overboard in your hurry to abandon the burning ship.
Such a light would give excellent run time, be small enough for easy carry, would use a battery that would give a great run time per battery. 0.75A through an XML2 is a LOT of light, and IMHO a good balance between being able to light up the whole mountain and battery life. If you were lost in the woods with just this torch and no spare batteries, by being careful you could make it last a good couple of days, even if you use it for maintaining camp as well as signalling with the beacon all night while you sleep. This would give rescuers plenty of time to find you.
Any buyers on my version of the Ultimate Survival Light?
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Personally I think a SHTF light should just be a light, but a good one. One small enough that it will be in your pocket all day every day so it's there when you really, really need it. It doesn't do you any good if it's in your glovebox or Pelican case and you're nowhere near either.
Definitely agree with low-low mode for prolonged use as well as a decently high mode for when you really need to see what is going on, as well as being sturdy and overbuilt and with excellent environmental resistance.
Definitely agree with low-low mode for prolonged use as well as a decently high mode for when you really need to see what is going on, as well as being sturdy and overbuilt and with excellent environmental resistance.
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
Why "of course" titanium? Makes it MUCH more expensive. Could buy several hard-anodized aluminum lights for the price of one titanium light...and having two is always better than one. ANY light can fail, regardless of how tough it is...and the aluminum body is typically not the weak point anyway. Much more likely to have switches, or electronics, and even O-rings fail.
Also, titanium doesn't need any kind of anodizing. Aluminum lights do need it, because aluminum is fairly soft. That is why bezels tend to be either titanium or stainless steel...they are much less likely to be deformed by impact.
I already have more than enough lights...don't need to design a purpose-built Armageddon light. No light will last forever, even if it is very efficient. In my opinion, it is better to invest in a solar charger, and some extra batteries, rather than obsessing about modes and runtimes.
MrNaz
Enlightened
Yea, you're probably right about the cost point. However, I was under the impression that we were fantasizing rather than engaging in realistic cost evaluations.
If your answer is "I've already got enough lights" then I suspect this thread isn't for you. In fact, I suspect that this forum isn't for you. :nana:
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well, I'm sticking around anyway...
Seriously, though, plenty of lights that are already readily available would be perfectly adequate for a survival light. Good efficiency, toughness (potted electronics), and two or more well spaced modes are all you really need.
Practical concerns are ALWAYS in my mind...fantasizing is fine, but would I actually buy a titanium light for POTENTIAL survival use? Definitely not...rather spend the money on users, and have spares. A theoretical light that costs a lot, and you don't own, is a lot worse than a budget light that you have with you already. I usually have two or more mid-range lights on me, so I am covered. Doesn't mean I won't ever buy more lights, but certainly can't argue that I NEED more.
I agree that a SHTF light should be JUST A LIGHT.
THIS thread, though is about designing a SURVIVAL light.
IMO a silly thread really, but to make my argument that FOR THIS THREAD the light should include ACTUAL SURVIVAL TOOLS, I'd like to point to survival knives, many of them use wrapped paracord handles, have a serrated (saw like) back-strap, and come with a built in mesh metal/flint, or have one included in the sheath. Some SURVIVAL KNIVES have hollow handles with fishing string, and hooks.
Originally Posted by MrNaz
If your answer is "I've already got enough lights" then I suspect this thread isn't for you. In fact, I suspect that this forum isn't for you. :nana:
Oh... and Naz,
If this was meant to be humorous, it didn't over very well with me.
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
I didn't mind...in fact I've said a similar thing myself...it seems to be a standard CPF running joke.
If you want silly, you need to check out this review of a hollow-handle survival knife. Takes a while to build up (don't know how he kept a straight face) but it is hilarious.
I thought it was pretty funny....not as funny as that review though!
LOL... that was funny! I guess I should have said... some have hollow handles that fall OFF the first time you give them a whack!!!
mcnair55
Flashlight Enthusiast
Very easy,a real silly low about 1/2 a lumen.....about 50 to 60 lumens as workable on long hours and a massive 500 or more for those bigger jobs,must run on the worlds easiest to find batteries so AA/AAA
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
AA and AAA batteries are usually the first to go, though...have heard multiple stories where 9V or CR123 (camera batteries) were in stores long after the more common batteries were out of stock. In a disaster, the more common cells are also in the highest demand. So I think a generously sized battery compartment, that can physically accommodate larger cells, is a better way to go, especially if it also has a driver with a wide voltage range. You can always use an adapter, or even just some tin foil, to use smaller cells - so it gives you maximum flexibility.
