Double Barrel
Enlightened
- Joined
- May 30, 2014
- Messages
- 458
I'm back...this is my 2nd swap this week. 2nd swap ever. This swap went without a hitch. If you read my first one, I had a buttload of trouble. With all the advice and helpful tips I've gotten from members here, this one went very smooth. Thanks to all that have sent words of encouragement, tips and helpful advice.
Learning from some of my mistakes with the first swap, I did some testing and verifying this time. Tested McPCB mounted LED right off the bat. This one was fine. Determined +/- orientation by legs on Seol emitter. <-- + bad reflowed LED caused me tons of aggravation last time.
The Classic wasn't near as hard to disassemble as the EDC. The retainer ring holding the module in was as glued in and broke free pretty easy using the snap ring pliers. I bought a measuring caliper for this but it's going to need some grinding on the tips to get them to fit inside the notches.
After removing the ring, the pill took a little pushing to get out. It was a tight fit and the goop they used for thermal transfer was pretty tacky. Taped up the tips of my Leatherman and pushed it out.
Notice the difference between this one and the USA made NT. Removing LED was a little tougher as the green thingamajig the LED is attached to was glued down. I had to pry it up and it broke.
These have more room for PCB. I used an XP-G2 R5 3C on 16mm Noctigon, but had to trim it up a little with the dremel. Put a dab of arctic silver under Noctigon.
I used Jamie's idea, using 5mm LED leg to keep the low profile.
Used pieces of plastic 3M ring to protect from short and added a little Arctic Silver.
Cut the reflector/LED alignment piece from this butterfly thingamabopper.
Put everything back in it's place and took some beamshots w/comparison. Still not good at these, but it gets the point across. They show the brightness comparative pretty well, but that's about it.
NT 120-Stock on left, XP-G2 R5 3C 4750-5000K on Right
HDS 250 on left, Classic on right
I'm still having fun! Did the 250 click jailbreak and programmed it to my liking. Gotta love the NTs programmability.
Thanks for looking, DB
Learning from some of my mistakes with the first swap, I did some testing and verifying this time. Tested McPCB mounted LED right off the bat. This one was fine. Determined +/- orientation by legs on Seol emitter. <-- + bad reflowed LED caused me tons of aggravation last time.
The Classic wasn't near as hard to disassemble as the EDC. The retainer ring holding the module in was as glued in and broke free pretty easy using the snap ring pliers. I bought a measuring caliper for this but it's going to need some grinding on the tips to get them to fit inside the notches.
After removing the ring, the pill took a little pushing to get out. It was a tight fit and the goop they used for thermal transfer was pretty tacky. Taped up the tips of my Leatherman and pushed it out.
Notice the difference between this one and the USA made NT. Removing LED was a little tougher as the green thingamajig the LED is attached to was glued down. I had to pry it up and it broke.
These have more room for PCB. I used an XP-G2 R5 3C on 16mm Noctigon, but had to trim it up a little with the dremel. Put a dab of arctic silver under Noctigon.
I used Jamie's idea, using 5mm LED leg to keep the low profile.
Used pieces of plastic 3M ring to protect from short and added a little Arctic Silver.
Cut the reflector/LED alignment piece from this butterfly thingamabopper.
Put everything back in it's place and took some beamshots w/comparison. Still not good at these, but it gets the point across. They show the brightness comparative pretty well, but that's about it.
NT 120-Stock on left, XP-G2 R5 3C 4750-5000K on Right
HDS 250 on left, Classic on right
I'm still having fun! Did the 250 click jailbreak and programmed it to my liking. Gotta love the NTs programmability.
Thanks for looking, DB