Do older G2s really melt?

BloodCleanSoul · Oct 8, 2014

Ok. So I've read a bunch of threads about being careful about the drop in you put in the all Nitrolon G2s because they "might" melt (The head of the light…) Has this happened to anyone? I'm looking at Customlites, Malkoffs, and EDCplus drop ins….All 800 or less lumens. Should I be concerned? Out of those, will the Malkoff do the best because of the design to absorb the heat? I was planning on putting a glass AR lens in regardless.

BillSWPA · Oct 8, 2014

According to Malkoff's website, you should not install their highest output dropins in a plastic light housing if you plan to run the light for more than 15 minutes continuously. However, any of their reduced output, longer runtime dropins are fine. The M61L is installed in my G2Z, and provides an excellent combination of output and runtime.

Malkoff's website states that running the highest output dropins for more than 15 minutes in a plastic housing will cause enough heat buildup to potentially damage the dropin. Plastic is less effective at dissipating heat than aluminum. I have not come across instances of the plastic melting, and suspect that the dropin would be damaged long before the plastic would melt.

BloodCleanSoul · Oct 8, 2014

BillSWPA said:
According to Malkoff's website, you should not install their highest output dropins in a plastic light housing if you plan to run the light for more than 15 minutes continuously. However, any of their reduced output, longer runtime dropins are fine. The M61L is installed in my G2Z, and provides an excellent combination of output and runtime.

Malkoff's website states that running the highest output dropins for more than 15 minutes in a plastic housing will cause enough heat buildup to potentially damage the dropin. Plastic is less effective at dissipating heat than aluminum. I have not come across instances of the plastic melting, and suspect that the dropin would be damaged long before the plastic would melt.

Thank you! (By the way...I think we've met before on the PAFOA….If not someone has the same user name on that forum as you!)

cland72 · Oct 8, 2014

BillSWPA said:
I have not come across instances of the plastic melting, and suspect that the dropin would be damaged long before the plastic would melt.

I agree with Bill - the G2 would likely be fine, it would be the drop in that would suffer damage.

BillSWPA · Oct 8, 2014

BloodCleanSoul said:
Thank you! (By the way...I think we've met before on the PAFOA….If not someone has the same user name on that forum as you!)

Glad I could help. I do use the same user name on the PAFOA forum, but do not visit there frequently.

Random Dan · Oct 8, 2014

The stock incan lamp that the G2 was designed for produces a lot more heat than most LED dropins. I don't think there's really any chance of melting the nitrolon but you could definitely ruin the dropin.

novice · Oct 8, 2014

I did have a G2 that had a P61 lamp installed that I put into the pocket of a heavy leather coat in the winter, and I somehow managed to jam the tailcap switch on. The coat was thick enough that I didn't feel the extra heat (and I probably had on extra layers), and with the complete lack of air circulating under those conditions, the lens discolored (yellow) and slightly deformed, and once I got the lens out, it looked like the bezel was slightly out of round. I called Surefire and explained what happened, and they replaced the bezel; no problem. I actually asked for a metal bezel to prevent my carelessness from having to make the same call in the future, and they agreed.

Illum · Oct 8, 2014

I've never melted a G2 head, however....running P90 with 2x17500s and a G3 body will warp the lexan/polycarb. Most G2 heads have pyrex put in somewhere in the production chain, but on occasion a lexan one will pop up.

skyfire · Oct 8, 2014

i had a 1 amp drop-in in my G2. someone in the family left it on until the batteries died. the host was fine, but the LED got burnt. the LED was a SSC P4, it developed a brown spot on the LED, and it was at about half the brightness as it was before.

Timothybil · Oct 8, 2014

Illum said:
I've never melted a G2 head, however....running P90 with 2x17500s and a G3 body will warp the lexan/polycarb. Most G2 heads have pyrex put in somewhere in the production chain, but on occasion a lexan one will pop up.

The original G2s had Lexan lenses. I had my G2 in a belt pouch one afternoon while slouched down in my chair. I finally noticed some warmth coming from the holster and checked. The way I had slouched held the switch on, and the lens bubbled. I got a glass replacement from flashlightlens, and purchased a lockout tail cap (my G2 was old enough it didn't come with one) from Surefire. No damage to the nitrolon.

JSStryker · Oct 9, 2014

novice said:
I did have a G2 that had a P61 lamp installed that I put into the pocket of a heavy leather coat in the winter, and I somehow managed to jam the tailcap switch on. The coat was thick enough that I didn't feel the extra heat (and I probably had on extra layers), and with the complete lack of air circulating under those conditions, the lens discolored (yellow) and slightly deformed, and once I got the lens out, it looked like the bezel was slightly out of round. I called Surefire and explained what happened, and they replaced the bezel; no problem. I actually asked for a metal bezel to prevent my carelessness from having to make the same call in the future, and they agreed.

Had a similar situation with my G2 left mine turned on while it was standing on the head, deformed the lens. Called Surefire and they replaced it at no charge.

Do older G2s really melt?

BloodCleanSoul

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BillSWPA

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BloodCleanSoul

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cland72

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BillSWPA

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Random Dan

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novice

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Illum

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skyfire

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Timothybil

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JSStryker

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