Thrunite Archer 2A V2 (2014) vs Neutron

Berneck1

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Feb 14, 2012
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It looks like the newer version of the Archer is now available.

Has anyone ordered one? I purchased the Neutron, and I like it, but the electronic switch leaves something to be desired. I've had too many accidental activations with it. Not to mention it sometimes flickers off and I have to "reset" it by loosening and tightening the head. Has anybody else had this issue? I may have to return it.

I'm hoping to have a better experience with the Archer. However, I wish the output was comparable to the Neutron. Also, the ability to configure in either single AA or two AA is really nice on the Neutron. The Archer doesn't do that.

I guess what I'm really looking for is a Neutron with a rear tail clicky.
Either way the specs on the Archer are still decent for a two AA light, so I'm ordering one.

Is anybody else planning on getting this?


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reppans

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I have a NW Neutron V2, mine seems to work fine other than having difficulty hitting Turbo from ON on 1xEneloop - no problem from OFF though. Are you in 2-cell config and Turbo when the light flickers off? I think the light has Li-ion protection built into the circuit and shuts down on ~3V and Turbo... Selfbuilt's tests on 2x Alk and L91 show this.

Take ThruNite's recent specs with a grain of salt there's some real fleabay in there - eg, claims of ~800 lumens-hours of efficiency from a "AA" cell (ie, 11 lms for 72 hrs for NV2, and 17 lms for 96 hrs for A2AV2).

I wanted to try the Neutron as the AA light to beat the CR123 class, and it in that respect, it did not disappoint. Unfortunately for me, ThruNite's typical 100-200x mode spacing on the low-end is always too dim or too bright for 90% of my usage, so I usually pass on their offerings, despite being a sub-lumen AA collector.
 

Shuutr

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Aug 16, 2013
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I sent back my Thrunite Neutron 2C because of the switch.
It was a spaghetti design .

I have the neutron 2c. What do you mean by spaghetti design?

I'm also looking at getting the archer 2a or neutron 2a so I'll hang up and listen (read).
 

Berneck1

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I have been trying to move away from "odd" battery types, and the Neutron's specs really impressed me. Technology has advanced enough that everyday battery types can deliver plenty. The Neutron did not disappoint in terms of output. However, I just can't get past the problem of accidental activation with the electronic switch. It takes very little pressure to activate. If this light had a rear clicky, it would be close to the most perfect EDC to me. That's why I'm going to give the Archer a try. It falls short of the Neutron in many ways, but the rear clicky pretty much outweighs the pros in terms of accidental activation. A light is useless if the batteries are unexpectedly depleted when you need it most. I have had several occasions where the batteries were drained from accidental activation. It's still a useful light; I keep it on my nightstand now. However, for $55 it should be better than that.


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reppans

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My 2A V2 has never accidentally activated in my pocket - my Olight S15 Ti has several times even with the electronic lockout feature on (the Ti cannot tailcap lockout), and in varying clip positions. The NV2's electronic button is not as well protected as the SC52, but it is reasonably stiff and flush so that I can press and roll it against the meat of thigh (and I have no body fat) very hard, and it will not activate. Against bone, or any pointy/hard object, yes, it will activate. So I have my clip oriented on the opposite side of the button, where it presses against my flesh - never accidentally activated for me. Course you can lock out the NV2 with slight unscrew too.
 

mikekoz

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I have the Neutron 2A and the Archer 1A. The Neutron is a little flakey when used with one standard NIMH AA. It will not always come on in Turbo mode, and when it does, it is not that much brighter than high. It works much better using a 14500 or the 2 AA configuration. The Archer 1A (and 2A) are much better as far as quality goes, in my opinion. They are both built like tanks and have worked every time I have used them. I have not had the problem with the Neutron coming on accidently, but I have it in a small holster. I guess if you had a small piece of rubber, like a large "O" ring or washer, you can attach it (Glue?) around the switch, which would make the switch recessed.
 
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amaretto

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with one standard AA. It will not always come on in Turbo mode, and when it does, it is not that much brighter than high.
The Neutron 2A draws >3A on Turbo with 1x NiMH Eneloop. A standard alkaline AA instead would not able to offer enough current. If you use a non rechargeable AA, it's not a miracle not reaching full power. But i am with you, 2x NiMH or 1x 14500 output is even more impressive.

6z32iqh3.jpg
 

mikekoz

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The Neutron 2A draws >3A on Turbo with 1x NiMH Eneloop. A standard alkaline AA instead would not able to offer enough current. If you use a non rechargeable AA, it's not a miracle not reaching full power. But i am with you, 2x NiMH or 1x 14500 output is even more impressive.

6z32iqh3.jpg




I was using a NIMH cell with it. Sorry, I meant to specify that. No way I would put an alkaline in that light unless I ran out of rechargeables. Good information, thanks!!
 

reppans

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...The Neutron is a little flakey when used with one standard NIMH AA. It will not always come on in Turbo mode, and when it does, it is not that much brighter than high. It works much better using a 14500 or the 2 AA configuration. ...

Curious if you noticed different behavior accessing turbo from ON, and accessing turbo from OFF, when using 1NiMh. Mine has issues (as voltage drops) when double clicking from ON, but always can access turbo when double clicky from OFF (as mentioned in post #3).
 

Berneck1

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I have the Neutron 2A and the Archer 1A. The Neutron is a little flakey when used with one standard NIMH AA. It will not always come on in Turbo mode, and when it does, it is not that much brighter than high. It works much better using a 14500 or the 2 AA configuration. The Archer 1A (and 2A) are much better as far as quality goes, in my opinion. They are both built like tanks and have worked every time I have used them. I have not had the problem with the Neutron coming on accidently, but I have it in a small holster. I guess if you had a small piece of rubber, like a large "O" ring or washer, you can attach it (Glue?) around the switch, which would make the switch recessed.

That's an interesting idea. An O-ring would definitely reduce the chance of accidental activation. It would also make it dramatically easier to find the button by feel. While it's almost a testament to how nicely built the flashlight is, with smooth surfaces, etc. I argue it's more of a design flaw. That button is very difficult to locate by feel.


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D6859

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I guess if you had a small piece of rubber, like a large "O" ring or washer, you can attach it (Glue?) around the switch, which would make the switch recessed.

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to apply this on my Olight S15. It has same problem with the electronic switch accidentally turning the light on.
 
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