Eagletac MX25L3 filter mounting

D7v7d

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I received my ordered Eagletac MX25L3C Nichia 219 LED kit flashlight, charged 3 each 18650 batteries, installed the optional button rear tail cap, read instructions, powered it on, then verified basic functionality. Then examined one of the filters and found the included parts were apparently not designed for this model though can be adapted for use. What I will describe below could more easily be described using pictures, however that will take more effort than I wish to deal with at the moment. In any case as someone working in test engineering for decades I am used to making technical descriptions. Note last Wednesday posted my first question on the forum.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?392291-compatible-18650-batteries-for-MX25L3C

The kit model contains these filters:

ET54 diffuser filter, ET54 yellow filter, ET54 red filter, ET54 green filter, ET54 blue filter

Did find a website selling them for $22. All the filters have identical glass diameters, thickness, and share the same black 2.4375 inch diameter ET54 plastic ring mount holders. My main interest was with the diffuser filter because a primary use for this person given the high CRI 92 index Nichia 219 LEDs, is to evenly illuminate large photographic artwork. There is no information on the Eagletac website about using the filter kit and some other vendors simply relate the front anodized steel kit bezel is removed so a filter can replace it.

Each of the 0.34375 inch deep ET54 plastic rings contain an obvious front side with a similar cutout design to the 0.8125 inch deep steel bezel. The outside plastic surface is lined to aid grip. Glass elements can be popped out the rear (flashlight body end) by applying modest pressure to overcome small detents. From the flush rear end of the ET54 plastic rings, external threading continues for 0.125 inch thus the ring is made for mating. The diameter of the threading is exactly the same as the threading on the camera housing over which the inside steel bezel internal threads mate. However the ET54 plastic rings don't mate (there would be no purpose to do so) with that bezel because internal threading in the bezel begins 0.125 inch deep from its rear side although since it does mate to the identical external threading of the flashlight housing what ought mate to the ET54 plastic rings would have identical internal threading to the bezel.

Accordingly in order to mate one of the ET54 plastic rings to the flashlight housing there would need to be a short depth plastic ring part open on both ends with internal threading that would thread into both elements. Apparently such a part does not exist though the plastic design would be trivial? Instead to use a filter, one can pop out the glass and loosely lie it atop the bezel whiteglass lens which can then be screwed onto the body. Note the whiteglass lens has a diameter that exactly fits the bezel snugly though will fall out if a removed bezel is oriented front up. Thus please be careful to only unscrew or reinstall the bezel while the camera is pointed down. The diameter of the filters is smaller than the whiteglass lens so obviously was not meant to be used loosely in this manner however once screwed down fully the filters are snug so it works. Because the filter glass makes intimate contact with the multicoated whiteglass lens either could be scratched which is not good. Tonight I will find a way to shim the two glass elements away from each other maybe using thin wire bent into a circle. I will contact my vendor, Andrew & Amanda's site to find out what they know.

David
 

Bob Damon

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Interesting. Thanks for sharing your experience. I am disappointed with Eagletac for selling a filter kit that does not fit.
 

eff

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I received my ordered Eagletac MX25L3C Nichia 219 LED kit flashlight, charged 3 each 18650 batteries, installed the optional button rear tail cap, read instructions, powered it on, then verified basic functionality. Then examined one of the filters and found the included parts were apparently not designed for this model though can be adapted for use. What I will describe below could more easily be described using pictures, however that will take more effort than I wish to deal with at the moment. In any case as someone working in test engineering for decades I am used to making technical descriptions. Note last Wednesday posted my first question on the forum.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?392291-compatible-18650-batteries-for-MX25L3C

The kit model contains these filters:

ET54 diffuser filter, ET54 yellow filter, ET54 red filter, ET54 green filter, ET54 blue filter

Did find a website selling them for $22.
I think the Et54 filters were indeed made for this light. On close inspection you may see some imperfections in a specific location in the threading.
There is a tiny blob of plastic, that will prevent the user from correctly installing the filters on the light, the first time.
I recommend you to repeatedly screw/unscrew the filters on the head, so as to flatten out that tiny blob.
After doing that, you should have no issues putting the filters on the light.
 

D7v7d

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Now that comment may indicate I have the wrong filters in the product box? :)

From your comment you seem to be looking at a filter. In order for a plastic filter ring to attach to the flashlight, it would require internal threading. Instead the filters in my kit have external threads just like the end of the flashlight housing thus incorrect mating types. For term clarity the external threading at the end of both the flashlight and filters in my product box are similar to that of the threaded end of PVC pipe fittings like this:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=35909&catid=568

While the internal threading of the steel bezel (which holds the whiteglass lens) is like a PVC threaded end cap like this:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37787&catid=520

Therefore in order to mate filters in my product box to the flashlight requires an adapter. Again like these PVC threaded couplings though the length however would be minimally short.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=26987&catid=726

As someone unfamiliar with Eagletac products and accessories, it is possible that there are different filter models and there is another model that should have been in the product box that has internal threading on the plastic filter rings. Of course that is obviously a better design. The only reason for a threaded coupling adaptor would be for a situation where filters were designed for a different product and are merely being adapted for this new flashlight.
 
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eff

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Did you buy the kit version (the one in the foreground in the picture) or the base version (background) ? :
features_kur.png

The base version has no threads on the top of the head. The kit version is threaded just above the lens.
If you bought the base version, you can't put any filters on the light (or at least not without modifying the light).
If you bought the kit version, you simply need to unscrew the silver ring bezel on the top of the light, and then install the filters.The silver bezel has external threading which adapts to the internal threading, above the lens.

The filters are normally included in the kit version only, as they can only adapt on this model. The base version does not include any filters, and was not meant to be used with them.

Note that you can also use them on other lights of the Eagletac M series (that have a silver ring bezel on them).
 
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D7v7d

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eff >>> "If you bought the kit version, you simply need to unscrew the silver ring bezel on the top of the light, and then install the filters.The silver bezel has external threading which adapts to the internal threading, above the lens."

I bought the kit version as explained in my opening post. You seem to have a description of thread terms reverse to what I've related or we are looking at different things? The male external threads are outside the camera body around the LED housing so that end inserts inside the hollow opening of the bezel tubular housing which mate to its internal threads. Basic biology haha, a male bolt screws into a female nut! :)

This reference which reflects pipe standards for internal (female) and external (male) threading is what I've described above.

http://cloudfront.zoro.com/img/zoro_tips/pipe_thread_definitions_eZtip.pdf

All this will be cleared up this evening as I will take closeup photos then post jpg's on this thread. Am realy interested now in seeing what you are looking at as it must be different?
 

eff

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Ok The photos will surely help us here.
According to the pdf file, my light has female internal threads, and my filters and silver ring bezel have external male threads
 

D7v7d

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Just took these two images. The original files are much larger with more detail but these show enough detail for this board. Members can read my posts above to clearly understand what I related.


MX25L3C_1b.jpg


MX25L3C_2b.jpg


Note the second image shows one of the filters resting up against the end of the flashlight showing external threads on both with exactly the same diameters. In order for the filter to attach, it would either need an internal threaded coupling adapter or the filter ring design would need to have internal threads instead of those external threads. Like two males don't mate (at least in the nut and bolt world.) :)

David
 

sbrom

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Hi David.

The answer is to unscrew the stainless steel bezel only, not the black anodized piece. The filters are attached in place of the stainless.

The black anodized bezel is not supposed to be removed.

Its a bit difficult to unscrew the stainless but once you have it off all will be clear.

15770464635_2fe2ecbb8b_z.jpg


Hope this helps,
Steve
 
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D7v7d

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Thanks sbrom. That was the trick. Funny how something had to be wrong haha. Pictures were far more useful than all the text.

Thing was when I first took the bezel off, I suspected those two rings might separate but after considerable effort thought if it took that much force they were probably mated with some type of adhesive. After your advice and still not getting anywhere using just my hands, clamped it with soft cloth in a vice and grabbed it with a big set of pliers. After some more work it finally freed. Then rotated it on and off some to smooth out the apparent tight thread fit. Filters go right on after taking to a knife the little nibs eff noted. Really what needs to be done is an improvement of user info on the Eagletac website or on their short terse printed guide in the product box.
 
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sbrom

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Glad to help! I agree some better documentation is in order.

Enjoy that wonderful Nichia tint. This Eagletac is one of my favorites.

steve
 

eff

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Just took these two images. The original files are much larger with more detail but these show enough detail for this board. Members can read my posts above to clearly understand what I related.

Ok I understand better now. you've completely removed the whole bezel with the lens.
In fact you simply had to remove the silver ring as specified above.
Thanks sbrom for the pictures.

I hope you enjoy your light with the filters :)
 

lumen aeternum

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Did you buy the kit version (the one in the foreground in the picture) or the base version (background) ? :
features_kur.png

The base version has no threads on the top of the head. The kit version is threaded just above the lens.
If you bought the base version, you can't put any filters on the light (or at least not without modifying the light).
If you bought the kit version, you simply need to unscrew the silver ring bezel on the top of the light, and then install the filters.The silver bezel has external threading which adapts to the internal threading, above the lens.

The filters are normally included in the kit version only, as they can only adapt on this model. The base version does not include any filters, and was not meant to be used with them.

Note that you can also use them on other lights of the Eagletac M series (that have a silver ring bezel on them).

On the Eagletac site, they have a photo with the black bezel variant on the LEFT, caption reads "KIT and base models" so indicating the "kit" version has the black bezel. Looks like they screwed up...
 

lumen aeternum

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If you are going to use color filters, what is the point of having a high-CRI LED? Or does the higher color temp LED simply have less of those wavelengths in total, even though the overall output is higher?
 
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