D25C Titanium with Nichia 219

I got a new Eagletac Ti D25C with Nichia yesterday. I am using it with brand new Surefire CR123 a batteries. I'm having a problem getting it to turn on constantly. Sometimes it turns right on. Other times it will not. It also goes from High to strobe sometimes on its own. I have been trying to get in touch with the dealer for 2 days now but they haven't answered my emails or phone messages. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue without voiding my warranty? Has anyone else run into this issue? I have an old alumninum D25C on my keychain and it has none of these issues. Thanks!

Sounds like an intermittent connection problem with the tube, spring or the tailcap clicky. Course you should first try to clean everything up, and use a different battery, but if that doesn't work, then by-pass the tube & clicky to determine if the problem is in the head or the tube/spring/clicky.

Using the head only, resting on glass table or cup, hold a battery to the positive contact pad and run a wire or paper clip from the negative battery pad to the threads in the head to test the loose bezel modes, and then if you can, to a combo of the threads AND the OUTER brass ring circling the circuit board to test the tight bezel modes.

If it works properly, then you know the problem in the tube/clicky, although I think ET glues the tailcap in place (ie, they don't want you to open it up - may void warranty).

Ironically, I got the RMA notice within minutes of posting this however I am still curious if others have had this issue?

recDNA said:

Ironically, I got the RMA notice within minutes of posting this however I am still curious if others have had this issue?

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You can remove the tail cap and clean the switch, but since you're sending it back, you've got things covered.

I'm playing with my Ti. version now. 1.39A on high.

I have the XM-L2 U2 2014 version.

Chris

It looked very clean anyway. I wonder if this is an issue with the nichia model

I've addressed this problem several times in the past,
check my post history for more details.

It could possibly be the tailcap is in the wrong position.
You take the head off the D25C to swap out a battery.
However, the tailcap does twist around and off, don't do it, it will come apart.

The trick is to twist the tailcap and put the clip directly in between the Eagletac logos.
If that doesn't work, then something got loose in the tailcap.

Mine which is several months old has never given me the slightest problem. For the record my clip is positioned exactly where Gordo says.

Good to know. I never knew the tail came off. Probably best not to try it in a brand new one though. Might void dealer warranty. When I return this one and get the new one IF the new one works well and I keep it....it will be good to know these steps after the warranty has expired.

If the next one I get has the same issue I will ask for a refund. I'm all thumbs and working in that, fall apart, tailcap.sounds like a nightmare.

Thanks Gordo!
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I was surprised by the color of the nichia beam. I expected something more like incandescent color but it is really just white with a slight rosy hue IMO.

recDNA said:

I was surprised by the color of the nichia beam. I expected something more like incandescent color but it is really just white with a slight rosy hue IMO.

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Incandescent flashlights are down around 3500K in colour temperature. The Nichia 219 is closer to 4500K. I like both. I'd like a warm LED (like an incandescent), but manufacturers don't seem to use warm LEDs in flashlights any more. Neutral white seems to be as warm as you can get, now.

The holy grail is CRI 100. I simply want to get as close as possible. I assume 92 is as close as you can get with an LED.

recDNA said:

I was surprised by the color of the nichia beam. I expected something more like incandescent color but it is really just white with a slight rosy hue IMO.

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I really like the 219A. The 219B is cooler; almost looks cool white next to it's partner but still nice and high CRI.

I don't know which is in the model I purchased

recDNA said:

I don't know which is in the model I purchased

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You have the Nichia 219a. I also have the D25c Ti a Nichia 219a. I did not have any issues with mine.
Did you try to run it with a 16340/RCR123 ?

No. I see no point with the nichia. There is no increase in output is there?

recDNA said:

No. I see no point with the nichia. There is no increase in output is there?

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The 219B is a bit brighter, but has a cooler tint. IMO, if I'm going for a Nichia, tint is more important than brightness, so I'll go for the 219A every time.

Do they both have the same CRI?

recDNA said:

Do they both have the same CRI?

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They're both very high CRI, but if you look at the spec sheets the 219A seems to have a smoother spectrum. But since they're different colour temperatures, it's kind of difficult to compare directly. If I had to bet, I'd say the 219A probably has a slightly higher CRI. In any case, the warmer 219A will be better to show reds and browns.

I find it interesting you guys see the 219A as being warmer than the 219B. In all the swaps I've done and the 219B leds I've seen the tint is warmer - even for equally binned 4500K LEDs. I've noticed the 219A has that slightly rosier hue to it while the 219B has a bit of the more common neutral hue with the tiniest brownish hue to it. The 219A appears whiter to me.

I had a D25C for a while with the XM-L in it and I didn't find much brightness gain using 16340 cells. Nice light, but the level switching was a little weird for me and sometimes the twisting between levels would trigger EagleTac's programming sequences which could be frustrating. I think they put a bit too much programming into the twist part of the UI.

I hope you're second D25C at least operates properly. It seems like you got one with a bum switch. Probably fixable by taking the tailcap apart and re-assembling, but why have to do that on a brand new light. RMA was the way to go.

BTW - I saw a great sale price on a V11R at either GoingGear or Battery Junction earlier this week and thought of your other thread. I think new it was going for around $55. It was a XM-L2 though, so you would have had to put a little more work into turning it into a N219B version but the work could've probably been done for under your $100 max on the light.

I actually already have a v11r but thanks. My TC-R2 would be a better candidate for conversion since the reflector is designed for xgp which is about the same size. The v11r gets a ring with the smaller led and I bet some of the otf luminosity is lost as well. OTOH I think the v11r is driven harder with li ion battery