Thrunite T30 tailcap switch failure

arnieelkins

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
2
A couple years ago I picked up a Thrunite T30. I have been very happy with it. However, a few days ago I went to use it and found that the tailcap switch now works only as a momentary switch. The switch clicks, but the light will not stay on. For the momentary function to work I have to press the button past the point at which it clicks, and the light will come on, but only while you hold the button. I thought at first that it must be a switch problem, but now as I think about it I don't know if it is the switch or something in the circuitry that is keeping me from being able to use the constant on mode. I cannot find anyone that sells the T30 tailcap. So I have a few questions:

1) Is this most likely a mechanical switch failure, or some sort of circuit failure in the light? On a related note, how can I tell? What kind of troubleshooting steps would determine what has failed?
2) If it is, or appears to be, a switch problem, where can I find a tailcap, or a switch to replace the one in the existing tailcap?
3) If it is, or appears to be, a circuit problem, is it possible, or worthwhile, to troubleshoot it further, or should I ditch the light and find something else? I have a tailcap with a remote tape switch I could use to mount this on a firearm, if all else fails, as that tailcap never supported constant on in the first place.
4) If I cannot fix the light, what makes and models should I look at as a replacement? I think I paid $60 for the light, so $120+ lights are out. Something under $100 that is comparable to the T30 would be nice, so LED, two CR123 or single 18650, 500+ lumens, with a (working) 'tactical' momentary/clicky tailcap switch. Anything like that out there?

Thanks in advance!
Arnie Elkins
rifles dot rock at gmail dot com
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
Sounds like a tailcap switch problem to me - it's purely mechanical. Could be as simple as tightening the internal clicky retaining disk (surrounding the spring w/2 indentations) with needle nosed pliers. But if that doesn't work, you could run a by-pass test (using just the head, battery, and wire), or open up the clicky retaining disk and clean contact points underneath.

Also see the LD20 failure post near this one.
 

arnieelkins

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
2
Turns out the retaining ring was loose, and when I tightened it up, everything worked perfectly! Thanks so much! I had no idea such a simple thing could cause such headaches. I also know now how to replace the switch, should it actually fail. Thank you!
 
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