Advice on getting only 1 of these KL's to be used with 2x123's and 3x123's. No plan to have the chosen KL modded at the present time, but could be in the future. As I understand, the run-time is almost the same with both but the KL3 seems to have the lead on slightly brighter beam. I EDC the ARC LS for short run-time usage but plan to use one of these KL's for extended run-time when I go on travel trips. You know, just in case I can't have extra batteries with me. Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
KL1 or KL3?
- Thread starter Reaper
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rlhess
Enlightened
The KL1 works on the E-series flashlight bodies.
The KL3 works on the standard series (6P 9P) series flashlight bodies.
I THINK the KL1 wants no more than 2 cells, the KL3 will work on two or three cells.
My KL1 is more purple than my KL3. I don't know about others.
I would just carry more batteries for the Arc LS.
Cheers,
Richard
The KL3 works on the standard series (6P 9P) series flashlight bodies.
I THINK the KL1 wants no more than 2 cells, the KL3 will work on two or three cells.
My KL1 is more purple than my KL3. I don't know about others.
I would just carry more batteries for the Arc LS.
Cheers,
Richard
I have a Z3 and would never buy a KL3 for it. They reason why I bought it in the first place is to have bright light. Adding a KL3 would defeat the purpose of having the Z3 in the first place. I have other lights for long runtime.
I agree with richard, leave your 2 or 3x123 cell incan the way it is and carry more batteries. Or if you EDC both an LS and an incan and worst comes to worst, you can always just take the 123 cells out of the incan and put it in the ARC if you need more runtime.
I agree with richard, leave your 2 or 3x123 cell incan the way it is and carry more batteries. Or if you EDC both an LS and an incan and worst comes to worst, you can always just take the 123 cells out of the incan and put it in the ARC if you need more runtime.
Cmoore
Enlightened
I have a 3x123/2AA twisty tube from Vital Gear (purchased from TadGear) and have used it with 3 123s and the KL1 for 6+ hours of run time. The KL1 runs fine on 3 123s and the KL3 will too. However, running the KL4 on 3 123s is NOT recommended. The KL3 is a much larger head than the KL1 and as has been mentioned, it does not have the same threading as does the KL1. If you are considering size, I recommend the KL1. Also, if you don't have a body for the KL1 and don't need the momentary on or tail switch that found on Surefire tubes, the Vital Gear twisty body might a good option for you. It's cheap at $19.
The KL1 will work on 1,2, or 3 cells.
The KL3 will work on 2 or 3 cells.
The KL1 will work on Surefire E1,E1E,E2,E2E,E2O, the UBH, the Vitalgear 1 or 3 cell, the McLux with 1,2 or 3 cells.
The KL3 will work on Surefire C2,D2,G2,P6,Z2,C3,D3,P9,Z3.
I understand the KL1 is much easier to mod. If your going to mod one of these and still want the long runtime I recommend a high dome and maybe a Fraen Low Profile Optic depending on what kind of beam you want.
The KL3 will work on 2 or 3 cells.
The KL1 will work on Surefire E1,E1E,E2,E2E,E2O, the UBH, the Vitalgear 1 or 3 cell, the McLux with 1,2 or 3 cells.
The KL3 will work on Surefire C2,D2,G2,P6,Z2,C3,D3,P9,Z3.
I understand the KL1 is much easier to mod. If your going to mod one of these and still want the long runtime I recommend a high dome and maybe a Fraen Low Profile Optic depending on what kind of beam you want.
Hoghead,
I was planning on running one of the KL's on a UBH, after I decided on which one. But, you say that the KL3 doesn't happen to work with the UBH? If that's the case, I guess the KL1 wins by default and that's what I'll be getting and somewhere down the line - it'll probably get modded too. Thanks everyone.
I was planning on running one of the KL's on a UBH, after I decided on which one. But, you say that the KL3 doesn't happen to work with the UBH? If that's the case, I guess the KL1 wins by default and that's what I'll be getting and somewhere down the line - it'll probably get modded too. Thanks everyone.
Reaper you could use the KL3 on a UBH but you would need a E2C to make it fit. The KL3 is great on 123s but dim on AAs. DSpeck makes both the UBH & the E2C. With the UBH and the E2C you could also use Surefire P90 & P91 lamps with a Surefire Classic series bezel Z44HA for example. Here is a link to LPS for Surefire accessories
http://www.lagger-pro.com/accessories.htm
http://www.lagger-pro.com/accessories.htm
oldgrandpajack
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2003
- Messages
- 931
One advantage of the KL3 is the fact that you can put the F68 traffic cone on it. There is no traffic cone available for the KL1.
You can run the KL3 on 4 AA NiMH, NiCd or Alkaline batteries by adding three A19 battery extensions to a 9P. Roll a sheet of paper around the AA batteries to keep them straight and rattle free. Add the F68 traffic cone to this and you have a great safety light for evening walks.
oldgrandpajack
You can run the KL3 on 4 AA NiMH, NiCd or Alkaline batteries by adding three A19 battery extensions to a 9P. Roll a sheet of paper around the AA batteries to keep them straight and rattle free. Add the F68 traffic cone to this and you have a great safety light for evening walks.
oldgrandpajack
Roy,
It was your UBH plots that got me to think about getting the KL1 or KL3, but I had to wait until I was sure that I DID have a UBH. Now, I'm back to choosing which one. From looking at the plots, it seems that the KL3 will be my choice right now. (of course, I could also get the KL1 later) Sigh, and I thought I was through with buying any lights this early in the new year.
It was your UBH plots that got me to think about getting the KL1 or KL3, but I had to wait until I was sure that I DID have a UBH. Now, I'm back to choosing which one. From looking at the plots, it seems that the KL3 will be my choice right now. (of course, I could also get the KL1 later) Sigh, and I thought I was through with buying any lights this early in the new year.
Reaper,
Keep in mind that the KL3 runs a buck only circuit. The KL1 runs a buck/boost circuit. The KL1 will run on anything from 3v to 9v. With the KL3 Vin must exceed Vf for the light to run in regulation.
On the other hand. If you are not worried about being able to pocket it and a mod is in the foreseeable future, the KL3 is one hell of a mod host. You can run the stock circuit up well past 1A and you could use just about any available optic, or with some fitting, a Pelican reflector. Because of it's sheer size, it handles the heat well too.
With the KL1, I'd stay in the 700mA range, just because to the heat. I've driven some up to 1A, but they get mighty toasty.
Keep in mind that the KL3 runs a buck only circuit. The KL1 runs a buck/boost circuit. The KL1 will run on anything from 3v to 9v. With the KL3 Vin must exceed Vf for the light to run in regulation.
On the other hand. If you are not worried about being able to pocket it and a mod is in the foreseeable future, the KL3 is one hell of a mod host. You can run the stock circuit up well past 1A and you could use just about any available optic, or with some fitting, a Pelican reflector. Because of it's sheer size, it handles the heat well too.
With the KL1, I'd stay in the 700mA range, just because to the heat. I've driven some up to 1A, but they get mighty toasty.
Chop,
Still haven't made up my mind as to what head I'll be getting for sure, but the KL3 is in the lead only because of 1) with both in stock form it seems to be slightly brighter than the KL1, 2) heat dissipation is handled much better for mods. 3) price difference is only a few dollars. However, I have to see up front what the stock beam looks like before I contemplate any mods. Who knows? Maybe stock form is sufficient for my needs at the present time.
Still haven't made up my mind as to what head I'll be getting for sure, but the KL3 is in the lead only because of 1) with both in stock form it seems to be slightly brighter than the KL1, 2) heat dissipation is handled much better for mods. 3) price difference is only a few dollars. However, I have to see up front what the stock beam looks like before I contemplate any mods. Who knows? Maybe stock form is sufficient for my needs at the present time.
Reaper,
I guess the KL3 may be a little brighter, but for the most part both are biased to run at 1W spec, which is 350mA. Both also come with NX05 optics. There are just more options when modding a KL3.
In the KL1 you could use the stock NX05, a Fraen LP, or a McFlood reflector.
In the KL3 you could use all of the above plus a 30mm optic or a Pelican reflector.
I guess the KL3 may be a little brighter, but for the most part both are biased to run at 1W spec, which is 350mA. Both also come with NX05 optics. There are just more options when modding a KL3.
In the KL1 you could use the stock NX05, a Fraen LP, or a McFlood reflector.
In the KL3 you could use all of the above plus a 30mm optic or a Pelican reflector.
