XSTAR 3400mAh batteries for ZL SC62

Dr O

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Hi All

I tried a few searches but couldn't find what I was looking for.

Has anyone managed to fit XSTAR 3400mAh batteries in to a zebralight (specifically SC62W) and d25lc2.

The threads I found about sizing quickly went down merit of quality 18650's and of protected vs unprotected and didn't resolve what fitted.

Currently using Eagletac 18650's but the wrapper is a bit thin and they are all only 3100 as that was the most at the time. Keen to try another type and 3400mAh and the XSTAR looked pretty reasonable and available in UK.

D25LC2 official spec says can take 68mm battery so either a tight squeeze or wont fit- I'm fine with that but be nice to know although to some extent it wont matter as they were intended for the ZL.

SC62 official spec says can take 69mm battery. XSTAR says 69.1 although helpfully have also seen it as 69.4 and 69.8 so clear as mud..

Any insight appreciated cheers.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Can't help on if it'll fit or not, although if it was me I'd just buy it and try. If not, use it in something else.

That said, I would be truly gobsmacked if you could visually see any difference in output or runtime vs a 3100mAh battery of similar chemistry.


For single cell lights I tend to run IMR batteries these days, no need for protected, so they are always shorter. I like the Efest purple range. The 20A ones are 3100mAh and the 35A ones 2500mAh. Your SC62 doesn't really need the higher performance of the 35A ones, but would probably run very well on the 20A ones.

Buy them from ebay (just check they are genuine and not fake ones). Plenty of UK based suppliers, so fast shipping and good prices too.
 

markr6

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Regarding the D25LC2, EagleTacs own batteries wouldn't work in mine! The "button" was too short to make contact. I used a plain NCR18650B with a "real" button top and it worked fine.

My SC62w will take everything from flat tops at ~65mm to the Eagletacs a bit over 69mm. The spring will just compress tighter, but it's still not a struggle to get the cap on.
 

twistedraven

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If it's any help, the Nitecore 3400mah batteries fit nice and snug in the SC62 body nice and snug, and it's listed as a tiny bit over 69mm.
 

Taz80

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My Xstar 3400's range from will not fit to very very tight fit. My Olight,Redilast,Eagtac,AW and Soshine 3400's all fit.
 

Dr O

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Thanks all, useful info:twothumbs

I'll take one for the team and let you know:)
 

rrego

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Hello Dr O.

I just ordered/received some XTAR 18650 3400 batts. They fit my EagleTac D25LC2. I mainly bought them though, for my SolarForce lights.

I can't help you with the Zebralight, as I don't have one.

Hope this helps!
 

Dr O

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Can't help on if it'll fit or not, although if it was me I'd just buy it and try. If not, use it in something else.

That said, I would be truly gobsmacked if you could visually see any difference in output or runtime vs a 3100mAh battery of similar chemistry.


For single cell lights I tend to run IMR batteries these days, no need for protected, so they are always shorter. I like the Efest purple range. The 20A ones are 3100mAh and the 35A ones 2500mAh. Your SC62 doesn't really need the higher performance of the 35A ones, but would probably run very well on the 20A ones.

Buy them from ebay (just check they are genuine and not fake ones). Plenty of UK based suppliers, so fast shipping and good prices too.

Thanks- what is the deal with these IMR batteries - did a quick search to see what they were- seems quite a bit to it the more you read lol. How do they perform compared to the ICR ones (assuming that's what I have) and how does the higher draw come into it and determining which ones are more appropriate? Apologies for the basic questions:eek:
 

Dr O

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Regarding the D25LC2, EagleTacs own batteries wouldn't work in mine! The "button" was too short to make contact. I used a plain NCR18650B with a "real" button top and it worked fine.

My SC62w will take everything from flat tops at ~65mm to the Eagletacs a bit over 69mm. The spring will just compress tighter, but it's still not a struggle to get the cap on.

lol, that's ironic- the marketing department would love that:laughing:

good to know on sizing ta
 

Dr O

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Hello Dr O.

I just ordered/received some XTAR 18650 3400 batts. They fit my EagleTac D25LC2. I mainly bought them though, for my SolarForce lights.

I can't help you with the Zebralight, as I don't have one.

Hope this helps!

Cool, thanks- hopefully will fit mine even if too big for the ZL and at least get some use out of them. Looking earlier tonight there was a bit of space left on the D25LC2.
 

Dr O

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I find Xtar 3400s to be a bit large, they don't fit in my Oveready bored 6P.

mmm... I was all convinced too lol. Does seem to be some variance in size which is probably why different measurements can be found- possibly different factories at different times or just tolerances of machines? Will give it a go anyway and report back- hopefully mine will be on the shorter side of 69mm
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Thanks- what is the deal with these IMR batteries - did a quick search to see what they were- seems quite a bit to it the more you read lol. How do they perform compared to the ICR ones (assuming that's what I have) and how does the higher draw come into it and determining which ones are more appropriate? Apologies for the basic questions:eek:

IMR is a safer chemistry, it's still Li-ion, so still needs the same respect. But you generally won't find protection circuits (protected) IMR cells, as they don't need it. You still shouldn't discharge them below 2.75v however.

Along with being safer they as a rule can handle higher discharge rates. This is two fold, firstly in amp draw. But secondly in maintaining a stable voltage. Any battery, be it Li-ion, NiMH or LiPo in the RC world, when you draw current, the voltage it produces will dip.

ICR batteries as a rule can only supply limited current and usually will drop voltage fairly rapidly. So say if you had a high powered XM-L2 light that pulls 3 amps. An ICR will drop it's voltage sooner, so output on the light will drop quicker when compared to the same light on an IMR.

The trade off for this performance is lower capacity, although less so these days.


IMR's can also give higher output. For example I have a number of lights that I run the popular 17mm Qlite 3.04A driver in. With my Sanyo (2600mAh) and Panasonic (2900/3100mAh) ICR's my DMM only reads 2.1-2.3 amps at the tailcap.

If I use a purple Efest IMR or Samsung 25R I get 2.99-3.14amps at the tailcap on the same lights. And they look brighter too and in my opinion maintain their output better over the course of the batter, but I don't have stats to prove this. But I do have stats to show that these lights do put out more lumens on these batteries.


So it comes down to how you use your torch. If you tend to use moonlight and low modes, say anything that pulls under 1.amps as the main sort of usage. Then a high capacity ICR will give you the best runtimes and still offer good output on high modes. Or maybe if the torch isn't all that powerful, then something like this.


However if you have a torch that easily pulls 2-3amps + and you use the high modes mostly. Then you'll get better performance on an IMR/INR.

(INR's are a hybrid, slightly different chemistry again. But just think of them as the same as IMR's).


The other difference is direct driven lights. It's a more and more common trend, from Olight to EagleTac to Thrunite and many others. The Turbo/max mode is a direct drive. This means no regulation and is just whatever the battery can muster.

With an ICR you might only see the same output as non direct driven lights, 2-3amps. But with high performance batteries it might pull 4-5amps+ and offer massive increases in output.
 

18650

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IMR is a safer chemistry, it's still Li-ion, so still needs the same respect. But you generally won't find protection circuits (protected) IMR cells, as they don't need it. You still shouldn't discharge them below 2.75v however. Along with being safer they as a rule can handle higher discharge rates. This is two fold, firstly in amp draw. But secondly in maintaining a stable voltage. Any battery, be it Li-ion, NiMH or LiPo in the RC world, when you draw current, the voltage it produces will dip. ICR batteries as a rule can only supply limited current and usually will drop voltage fairly rapidly. So say if you had a high powered XM-L2 light that pulls 3 amps. An ICR will drop it's voltage sooner, so output on the light will drop quicker when compared to the same light on an IMR. The trade off for this performance is lower capacity, although less so these days. IMR's can also give higher output. For example I have a number of lights that I run the popular 17mm Qlite 3.04A driver in. With my Sanyo (2600mAh) and Panasonic (2900/3100mAh) ICR's my DMM only reads 2.1-2.3 amps at the tailcap. If I use a purple Efest IMR or Samsung 25R I get 2.99-3.14amps at the tailcap on the same lights. And they look brighter too and in my opinion maintain their output better over the course of the batter, but I don't have stats to prove this. But I do have stats to show that these lights do put out more lumens on these batteries. So it comes down to how you use your torch. If you tend to use moonlight and low modes, say anything that pulls under 1.amps as the main sort of usage. Then a high capacity ICR will give you the best runtimes and still offer good output on high modes. Or maybe if the torch isn't all that powerful, then something like this. However if you have a torch that easily pulls 2-3amps + and you use the high modes mostly. Then you'll get better performance on an IMR/INR. (INR's are a hybrid, slightly different chemistry again. But just think of them as the same as IMR's). The other difference is direct driven lights. It's a more and more common trend, from Olight to EagleTac to Thrunite and many others. The Turbo/max mode is a direct drive. This means no regulation and is just whatever the battery can muster. With an ICR you might only see the same output as non direct driven lights, 2-3amps. But with high performance batteries it might pull 4-5amps+ and offer massive increases in output.
There's no performance reason to use IMR over ICR on 99% of all stock lights because most need about 3A at the battery which won't make ICR's sweat.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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There's no performance reason to use IMR over ICR on 99% of all stock lights because most need about 3A at the battery which won't make ICR's sweat.
Yes there is. Read my post again. On multiple lights I own I get better performance (higher amp draw and higher ceiling bounce lux results) on Efest and Samsung 25R's vs ICR Sanyo's and Panasonics.
 

CelticCross74

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Got an Orbtronics 3600mah ICR in my ZL 600 mkII and its a damn tight fit but it does fit...Idk if that helps but hey its a ZL
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Here is a good comparison. At moderate amp draws the Efest always puts out more voltage than the Xtar. Which means potentially higher PEAK output (depending on exact torch/driver) and likely better regulation.

Total runtimes would seem pretty darn close too. The Efest is also physically smaller and won't have fitment issues.

 

bmo

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The xtar 3400mah fits in my ZL SC62w, but it's a little snug. Won't slide out on its own. I normally use Orbtronic 3400mah cells and those slide in and out of the Sc62w body no problem.
 

markr6

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I always like some snugness (TWSS). I intentionally buy button top NCR18650B for 2 reasons actually:

1. They work with lights requiring button tops, yet still shorter than protected cells
2. The clear wrapper holding on the button top makes it slightly thicker to reduce rattle. But they still slide in/out easily
 
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