Your favorite controlling algorithm for a flashlight with a single switch?

By algorithm of the switch I mean the way the flashlight is controlled. For example here's one scheme used in the Convoy S3 that I just got:
Mode 1: Low, medium, high, strobe 1, strobe 2.
Mode 2: Low, medium, high
Modes are switched when the lowest mode flashes after 5 seconds and the button is pressed after the flash. Brightness is changed with a quick on/off and it switches to the next level. It turns on in the same setting it was using before being turned off.

I dont like this scheme because I can accidentally switch to the flashing modes which I dont need/want and I also dont need the lowest light to flash. I also dont want the light to start in a high setting.

The scheme I want is just mode 2 and it should always start in the lowest mode so I dont get blinded in case the light was left in a High setting. I'm going to try getting a driver and programming it the way I want. I wonder how it would be if there were two switches so I could do on/off with one and the light level with the other.
Another scheme could be: Have Modes 1,2,3 and all of them have varying brightness levels. Mode 1=2 levels, Mode 2 = 5 levels and so on. Modes could be switched by doing something more complicated than a single toggle after 5 seconds so they are not switched accidentally. For example modes could be changed if I toggled 3 times within 10 seconds. After the mode is toggled, it would flash two times to tell me about the change so I know what's going on.

What we want is something that has the least annoyance factor and still gets us quickly to where we usually want to go. Our options are limited because we only have one switch and the only "input" we give to the system is the length of the time the switch was left on or off.

What is your favorite method/algorithm of controlling the flashlight?

I'm fond of head-tight for one set and head-loose for another set. Fenix, Armytek, Foursevens and others use this. I like it, better than I like a side switch.

My Eagletac Color has 3 head tightness positions to preset brightness before turn on. I really, really like how that works.

Not quite a fan of the Color's color change method. From head loosest, turn on, tighten to max, quickly loosen to low and it cycles through colors. Tighten the head to select. That's a bit clunky, but what do you expect from 1 switch and head tightness?

If you mean true one switch only with no tighten/loosen head selection:

For outdoor and tactical, I prefer momentary-on or constant-on always at full output, lower outputs selected by soft click, e.g., Fenix TK09.

For indoor working in dark corners, I prefer constant-on always at low or medium output, other outputs selected by soft click.

Control ring (Sunwayman, Jetbeam, also Nitecore SRT).

I do not like switching among multiple modes with the same switch that's used to turn it on and off. I find myself i the wrong mode 50% of the time.

I'm a big fan of the head or tail tight for high and head or tail loose for low control scheme.

The light press for low momentary and hard press for high momentary (tighten some for low constant and tighten more for high constant) is my second choice.

I really like Surefire's two stage switch, press for low, press harder for high (A2, L2, M3LT and a bunch if others use this switching)

for a multimode light, HDS seem to work best for me - the clicky tail is so easy to use. looking forward to getting a rotary though

If no head switching is allowed I would say 2 or 3-mode light /w memory is good. Memory should be based on "off-time" and this period should be very fast so that the light only changes modes if light is turned off and on in less than a half-second. This allows you to still use the light for momentary use without the risk of a mode change accidentally. I have a vinh 2-mode drop-in that is setup like this and I find it works well.

Control ring first, L-M-H half-press mode switching with no memory as my second option.

I absolutely detest the lights that put strobe in a mode sequence with memory. It's bad enough with the no-memory lights you can switch off to get back to the start of the mode sequence, but forcing people to step through strobe no matter what is pure stupidity.

I love the jetbeam tc-r2 setup. Turn the wheel all the way counter clockwise beyond off for strobe. Turn it clockwise to get to desired brightness. I leave it turned all the way to max so momentary press gets max brightness. If I want less light I turn the wheel back a half turn counter clockwise and I get a usable low BEFORE turning on the light. No starting in the wrong mode. No momentary flash. No accidental blinkies. Perfecto.

alan-31 said:

I dont like this scheme because I can accidentally switch to the flashing modes which I dont need/want

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It really shouldn't be that easy to change mode groups by accident, you have to wait for the flash, then turn it off and back on again quickly. Chances are if you have left the light on long enough to get the flash, then you won't have any need to turn it off and on again quickly.

I agree the flash is annoying, but with a single button UI and a mechanical switch, there really is only limited options on what you can do and still be user friendly.
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alan-31 said:

and I also dont need the lowest light to flash. I also dont want the light to start in a high setting.

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Unless you are pointing it at your face, then there is no reason why you should be blinded by it starting on high.

That said, these have mode memory, so come on in the last mode you used. If you used high last, that's what you'll get. If you used low, then you'll get that. If you always want low first, then just make sure you turn it off in low. It's really not that hard.

alan-31 said:

The scheme I want is just mode 2 and it should always start in the lowest mode so I dont get blinded in case the light was left in a High setting. I'm going to try getting a driver and programming it the way I want. I wonder how it would be if there were two switches so I could do on/off with one and the light level with the other.

Click to expand...

There are plenty of options on drivers. Older Convoys (don't know how old yours is) also have stars on the driver you can solder too, to change additional mode groups. And with some bits and bobs you can even reprogram the chip to something else.

Or swap in another 17mm driver, it's only two wires to solder.

There are also plenty of other lights with either dual buttons, rotary controls or electronic switches that allow for more advanced UI's. But they usually cost more than the Convoy does.