Changing the emitter on the RRT-01 isn't hard. Here's how to do it:
1. Using pliers, grip the section of the head ABOVE the magnetic ring and below the stainless steel bezel. To avoid damaging the finish, I recommend using rubber jawed pliers or wrapping tape around that section of the light. Tip: 3m Rubber indoor/outdoor stairway grip tape works GREAT for turning your regular pliers into rubber jawed pliers.
2. Using a second pliers grip the bezel. Unscrew to remove the bezel and lens. (above steps may or may not be required. My TCR-01 needed it, but my RRT-01's bezel wasn't threadlocked and came off easily just with hands).
3. Turn the light upside down to dump out the reflector.
4. lift out the plastic isolation disk around the LED. I find a small hooked dental-pick like tool from the hardware store is ideal for this.
5. At this point the star is revealed and changing the emitter is just like with any other light. The compartment is sized to accept any standard 16mm star. I recommend an XML2 or XPL with 3D tint.
Alternatively, you could convert the light into a triple.
1. There's a ledge halfway down the reflector compartment at just the right height for a triple star (or at least there was on my TCR-01). It's 18mm across, so you'll need to file the edges of the 20mm triple star to fit. If you're converting a TCR-01, make sure the edges of the contact pads taper inward so they don't short against the head or insulate the outer edges with arctic alumina epoxy.
2. Once filed to fit, insert it and your choice of Carclo triple TIR optic. Note: you may need to file down any the bur on the side of the optic so the optic inserts fully. The top edge of the optic will be just above the rim of the head. Also, file down the outside edge of each leg of the optic with a small handfile so that the optic fits without bending the legs.
3. You may need to remove the driver and lengthen the driver wires to cover the additional distance to the higher star. I did this by soldering small lengths of wire to the ends of the stock wires and then insulating them with kapton tape or arctic alumina epoxy.
4. To make wiring more convenient I also drilled a hole through the center of the original LED platform for the new LED wires to pass through.
5. Screw in the bezel without the glass lens and you're done. With my TCR-01, the entire conversion to a triple Nichia 219B took just 3 hours.
6. Optional: If you want you could build and add a copper heatsink below the triple star. I didn't do this on mine and haven't noticed any heat issues. I don't think the stock driver pulls enough current to need this as long as you use a direct copper triple star.
WARNING: The reason why you do not want to just grip the entire head and turn the bezel is this: The head is actually constructed in 2 pieces, with a second set of threads directly below where it narrows underneath the magnetic ring. If you grip the light below the magnetic ring there's a chance those threads may unscrew instead of the bezel threads. If that happens with the driver installed, you'll torque and destroy the driver wires. Even worse, due to the way the driver wires are mounted they are basically NOT replaceable. If you destroy the driver wires you'll probably need a new driver.
