SF E-Series or L4

Bravo25

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I am thinking I would like to get another SF, but I am up in the air on this one. I like all the feedback about the L4, but I also wanting the one that will give me the most options. Is the LED head that fits the E2E as good as the L4? Is one switch better than another? Can the E2 be run from a rechargeable?

Any feed back or thoughts on this would be apreciated.
 

kaseri

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I believe that the KL4 head will fit on the E2e body. You can buy the E2e as well as the KL4 head and have both!
 

kakster

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The KL4 bezel can be run from a single Pila 168s rechargable lithium, but the E series lamps cant.
 

r2

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The L4 is an E2 body with the KL4 head and the new clickie switch. I believe the E2E is supposed to move to the clickie switch as a standard component at some point, so the only real difference would be the bezel. This also means that the KL1 head that fits the E2E works just as well on the L4.

I have the L4 but not the E2E. I do have both tailswitches, however, and I'd highly recommend the clickie of the L4 over the LOTC of the E2E. The runtime is similar between the two lights with the L4 being a bit brighter and much whiter, but the E2E having a tighter beam so it throws further.

It depends on your needs, really, but for me a wider beam is generally more useful. I use my L4 for walking around at night and a wide beam is much better than a tight spot would be.

- Russ
 

jtice

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The KL4 led head will fit the E2e, AND, it is the EXACT head that comes on the L4.

Actually, an L4 IS an E2e body, just differnt lettering and name on the side,, and it comes with the clickie switch.

You might also want to look into the KL1 led head.
It is the lower power 1W led version of the KL4 (which is 5W) It has a very usable beam. Not much throw, but excellent under 35 feet or so.

Either the E2e or L4 will give you the same versitility.
And remember, Mclux heads fit on SureFire lights !!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have a "spy kit" that includes about 20 Surefire, Arc, and Mclux heads and bodies. Talk about versitility !!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

ResQTech

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For the price of the KL4 head alone, you're better off just getting the whole L4.
 

jtice

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Yes MTFD17 has a point.
I thought about getting the KL4 before,, but for about $30 more, you can get the entire L4 light.

If you really think you will want the KL4 head eventually any way, I suggest getting the L4 to start with. You can always pickup a E2e incan head later and cheap.

Unless your main concern is throw, I would go with the L4. Much more light, whiter light, and about the same runtime.
 

Bravo25

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This is interesting but I still haven't figured out if would be better (and easier) to by the L4, and then try to locate the E2E bezels, and P-lamps. Or would it be easier to go the other way?. I like the clickie switch, but will it work with E2E bezels? If I went the E2E route, is it difficult to find a KL4 head?

Sorry for all the questions but I am looking for the ability to switch the heads for throw, output, and runtime. Depending on given situation.
 

ResQTech

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The easier route would be to get the L4 and get the EXe bezel and bulb later. The bezels are not too difficult to find, and you can get the bulbs pretty much anywhere. Also you get the z57 clickie w/ the L4, which is GREAT after it's fixed. I currently have clickies on my L4, E1e (incan), and E2e (incan). It's pretty difficult to find the KL4 head alone.
 

tkl

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What MTFD17 said. Dan at Tactical Warehouse can hook you up with an L4, E2e bezel and lamp.

I EDC my L4 and love it. Nice white flood and the clickie is alot better than the LOTC for momentary.
 

jtice

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Deffinately easier to get the L4, and get the E2e stuff later.

And yes, the L4's clickie will work on a E2e body.
The L4, E2e, and E1: heads, bodies, and tailcaps are all interchangable.
 

Hoghead

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You might want to consider getting the KL1 bezel also. The KL1 on two 123 cells has a runtime of about 4 hours & then moon mode. Like the others said, get the L4 complete and then get the extras. Just call Dan at Tactical Warehouse, he's a great guy and is a pleasure to talk to & do business with. He knows a lot about Surefire and he can give you advise too.
 

762x51

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I wanted to be able to build whatever I needed so I bought myself an L4, an E1e, and an MN03. Now I basically can assemble an E1e, E2e, L4, or TW4 all with clickie or LOTC. I love the interchangableness (if thats a word /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) of Surefires!
 

Frenchyled

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</font><blockquote><font class="small">En réponse à:</font><hr />
Bravo25 said:
... Is the LED head that fits the E2E as good as the L4? Is one switch better than another? Can the E2 be run from a rechargeable?

Any feed back or thoughts on this would be apreciated.

[/ QUOTE ]

In my opinion, Choose L4, you will not regret it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
L4 is more powerful
L4 functions better than E2e with one pila 168' S
L4 clicky switch is better than E2e turn switch..
And more advantage for the L4.It is not for nothing it received lummies award 2004 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

jtice

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No, the L1 is totally differnt body an tailcap.
Cant be interchangable with the E series,,,, unless modded.
 

brightnorm

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Remember that the L4 is regulated and will give you about one hour's worth of steady non-dimming light. The option of different bezels is an advantage and the standard bezel with MN03 (incandescent) will give you longer throw but it would not be considered one of the true long throw 2x123s. If your work in security demands a very bright and small light there are other lights, including an E2E standard bezel mod, that you might want to consider in addition to the KL4/KL1/MN03 system.

Brightnorm
 

pilot4x4

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How much larger is the L4 compared to the E2E? Does anyone have both lights that they can post a picture of side by side? John
 

pjandyho

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Generally, the L4 as mentioned above is similar to E2e in terms of the body design. The only difference is the bezel head and tail cap. The E2e uses the LOTC which I think is more practical for durability whereas the clickie is subject to easy wear and tear on the locking mechanism inside. My friend who owns an L4 had the switch permernantly clicked to on and only rotate the tail cap to turn the L4 on and off.

The bezel of KL4 is only slightly bigger than the incand bezel of the E2e which I have. Occasionally my friend (with his L4) and I (with E2e) would switch bezel heads just to play with it. Until lately, did he not have the need to switch heads with me because I gave the bezel of my E1e to him. I lost my E1e + KL1 outfit so the bezel is left redundant. Whoever the hell picked up my E1e with KL1 is really a lucky bustard.

Andy Ho
 
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