Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
This is not a tutorial and I apologize for it... but it's rather a photo shoot as I was cutting the original size plastic into smaller package that would fit brass adapter we use with McClicky in Z41 tailcap... it's not complete, it needs a 13mm brass disc to solder onto folded peg on the bottom of it then use 2-compoent epoxy to fill all gaps to get ruggedness and nicer look...
It's a nice DIY thing for those brave enough until we figure out what's the future of awesome Tofty's 10A+ switch he was making until now... the IP might be transferred to another member of CPF/BLF so it still might be available in the future... if not, this project is relatively easy to do, requires some tweaking skills but doable with anyone with basic knowledge and soldering knowledge...
Unlike Tofty's switch, it allows the installation of heavy-gauge spring which then can also be coiled from inside with smaller wire (#22 or #24) for less resistance and more amp flow to/from switch itself... it requires 2mm spacer between switch/boot and those 2mm show up between body/tailcap (4.1mm instead of 2.1mm gap when McClicky is installed; Tofty switch leaves 3.5mm gap) but unlike Tofty's it's firm inside the tailcap and lock-out can be achieved... spring is plus as allows protected and non-protected cells to be used with less worrying about cell crush...
Judco 10A switch (can be bought from Mouser Electronics, etc):
It's then opened and both halves cut to smaller square shape then again put together... one peg is bended towards the center and underneath the switch while other is bended down then at the bottom to up again and it's flat at the side... that peg is soldered to brass adapter from top and bottom - make sure you center the switch while soldering... adapter is installed BACKWARDS compared to original intention...
Now need to make 13mm brass disc to solder to the peg bended to the bottom of switch... then solder heavy-gauge spring... then epoxy all together... will take few more photos once done... all in all, a nice upgrade to crazy builds using MOSFET type drivers (direct drive with lower modes) like DriverVN or same type driver/different firmware I use/plan to use for my Z2X Quads (although I have only couple of boards to make them, lol)...
It's a nice DIY thing for those brave enough until we figure out what's the future of awesome Tofty's 10A+ switch he was making until now... the IP might be transferred to another member of CPF/BLF so it still might be available in the future... if not, this project is relatively easy to do, requires some tweaking skills but doable with anyone with basic knowledge and soldering knowledge...
Unlike Tofty's switch, it allows the installation of heavy-gauge spring which then can also be coiled from inside with smaller wire (#22 or #24) for less resistance and more amp flow to/from switch itself... it requires 2mm spacer between switch/boot and those 2mm show up between body/tailcap (4.1mm instead of 2.1mm gap when McClicky is installed; Tofty switch leaves 3.5mm gap) but unlike Tofty's it's firm inside the tailcap and lock-out can be achieved... spring is plus as allows protected and non-protected cells to be used with less worrying about cell crush...
Judco 10A switch (can be bought from Mouser Electronics, etc):
It's then opened and both halves cut to smaller square shape then again put together... one peg is bended towards the center and underneath the switch while other is bended down then at the bottom to up again and it's flat at the side... that peg is soldered to brass adapter from top and bottom - make sure you center the switch while soldering... adapter is installed BACKWARDS compared to original intention...
Now need to make 13mm brass disc to solder to the peg bended to the bottom of switch... then solder heavy-gauge spring... then epoxy all together... will take few more photos once done... all in all, a nice upgrade to crazy builds using MOSFET type drivers (direct drive with lower modes) like DriverVN or same type driver/different firmware I use/plan to use for my Z2X Quads (although I have only couple of boards to make them, lol)...