Is this P60 dead?

Micklos · Apr 22, 2015

I have a Dereelight Javelin, and a while back it developed a problem. I'd turn it on and get a single brief flash, then nothing. I left it for a while, then it worked fine. Now it has the same problem. I've taken the cap off and just made a contact between the battery and the casing, and I get the same thing, so it's not the switch. It seems odd that the problem entirely went away for a while only to come back. Any ideas as to the cause?
Also, if I replace the module, can someone recommend a good one? I'd say one with the best throw would be a better choice, as I'm just gonna sell it on. I have a Fenix Pd-35 that I carry everywhere. I never liked the Javelin much anyway. Too many artefacts, too skinny, and way too front-heavy.

Timothybil · Apr 22, 2015

Go to Mountain Electronics. They have a CUxx Cree XM-L2 P60 with options for $17 + shipping. I got the brother with the Nichia 219B and it is really great. They really are nice drop-ins. They may even change your mind about getting rid of the light. One thing, both are 3.7v only, or one LiIon rechargeable, no primaries. But you might want to ask what would happen with only one primary cell.

Micklos · Apr 22, 2015

I should have mentioned I'm in the UK, but I'll look into it. The module currently in there is a cree.

What about the problem it has? Anyone have this problem? It seems strange for it to totally go away, and then come back. It was fine for months, it was screwed for weeks, then it was fine for weeks again before being screwed again. It's definitely the module itself, since it flashes once each time power is applied. Last time it started working again after a battery change, but I put that down to coincidence. I've tried a few sets, but they are all the same Duracells. Maybe there's not enough headroom for the driver. I'll give some alkalines and some Eneloops a quick try before I assume it's dead. But...it was dead before...then it wasn't. That's what's odd. It suggests maybe a mechanical fault, but everything else doesn't.

DellSuperman · Apr 22, 2015

Battery incompatibility, battery issue or contact issue?
If the batteries are fine, then perhaps its the dropin or the contact.

For a replacement with the best throw, you can consider a dropin with an overdriven XP-G2 with a smooth reflector.
Check out Vinh54 for a solid dropin that should last you years of usage or you may want to consider what Tim has mentioned.

For the batteries usage, do find out the input voltage range.
Some single li-ion driver will accept 2 x 3V primary cells but some don't.

Micklos · Apr 22, 2015

DellSuperman said:
Battery incompatibility, battery issue or contact issue?
If the batteries are fine, then perhaps its the dropin or the contact.

For a replacement with the best throw, you can consider a dropin with an overdriven XP-G2 with a smooth reflector.
Check out Vinh54 for a solid dropin that should last you years of usage or you may want to consider what Tim has mentioned.

For the batteries usage, do find out the input voltage range.
Some single li-ion driver will accept 2 x 3V primary cells but some don't.

I've tried several batteries, and none work. I don't think it's a contact issue, because I get the same brief flash whether I use the switch, short from battery to chassis, or take the drop-in out and use leads to make the connection. Oh, it's a 2xAA light so I'll have to find a module in the right range. If re-selling isn't going to at least make enough cash after the cost of the drop-in to buy a beer or two, then I'll just keep it as a spare. I like my PD35 just fine. I had an LD 20 that I really liked, too, but I think I left it in a police car. (Front seat, not back)

Timothybil · Apr 23, 2015

Someone in another thread suggested this test: Put the light in the frig overnight - with or without batteries, your choice. Then the next day try the light. If it works for a while, then acts up again, you could have a bad solder joint that finally failed. When cooled everything shrinks and makes contact, but as the light runs it warms up and opens.
Another test would be to find or borrow a regulated DC power supply. Set the correct voltage and connect to the P60 directly with some jumpers. If it still acts up you know it is not the cells or the case, but the P60 itself.
Good luck in your hunt.

Micklos · Apr 23, 2015

Timothybil said:
Someone in another thread suggested this test: Put the light in the frig overnight - with or without batteries, your choice. Then the next day try the light. If it works for a while, then acts up again, you could have a bad solder joint that finally failed. When cooled everything shrinks and makes contact, but as the light runs it warms up and opens.
Another test would be to find or borrow a regulated DC power supply. Set the correct voltage and connect to the P60 directly with some jumpers. If it still acts up you know it is not the cells or the case, but the P60 itself.
Good luck in your hunt.

It only comes on for a fraction of a second, so I don't think that's what it is. I've tried enough cells to be certain they are not the issue. I'm sure it's the drop-in itself. It's just really weird that the same problem disappeared all by itself once. Otherwise, I'd just say the driver is hinged. But to UN-hinge itself...That's weird. Maybe something on the driver is loose, but I've tried shaking, hitting, etc. The problem itself wouldn't seem so odd if it hadn't fixed itself for a while with no input from me.
Either way, I'll just get a new one. I can't keep it as a spare OR sell it on as it is. It's just the not knowing that's bugging me. It's like light being a particle and a wave at the same time...kinda thing

StorminMatt · Apr 23, 2015

One thing that you could try is shorting out the switch. Aside from poor contacts, there really aren't any other failure points in the light. If the Light works when you short the switch, then you know it is the switch (and NOT the P60) that is bad. You could also try running the P60 outside the light to see if it is bad. Just try connecting the batteries to the P60 with some clips and magnets. Or you could just try holding everything together with the batteries as you test the P60.

Timothybil said:
Go to Mountain Electronics. They have a CUxx Cree XM-L2 P60 with options for $17 + shipping. I got the brother with the Nichia 219B and it is really great. They really are nice drop-ins. They may even change your mind about getting rid of the light. One thing, both are 3.7v only, or one LiIon rechargeable, no primaries. But you might want to ask what would happen with only one primary cell.

A 3xAA extender is available for the Javelin. With a 3xAA extender, you can run a 3.7V P60 in your Javelin from three NiMH AA batteries. This is an option if you don't mind a somewhat longer light. I actually find that I really like the way the Javelin feels in my hand at this length. Alternately, you can run the drop-in with one 14500 and a spacer.

There is one thing to be aware of, though. The Javelin seems to be fussy about P60 fitment, and can't seem to properly fit many modules. Many are too long. Not sure if the one from Mountain Electronics will fit.

Micklos · Apr 24, 2015

StorminMatt said:
One thing that you could try is shorting out the switch. Aside from poor contacts, there really aren't any other failure points in the light. If the Light works when you short the switch, then you know it is the switch (and NOT the P60) that is bad. You could also try running the P60 outside the light to see if it is bad. Just try connecting the batteries to the P60 with some clips and magnets. Or you could just try holding everything together with the batteries as you test the P60.

A 3xAA extender is available for the Javelin. With a 3xAA extender, you can run a 3.7V P60 in your Javelin from three NiMH AA batteries. This is an option if you don't mind a somewhat longer light. I actually find that I really like the way the Javelin feels in my hand at this length. Alternately, you can run the drop-in with one 14500 and a spacer.

There is one thing to be aware of, though. The Javelin seems to be fussy about P60 fitment, and can't seem to properly fit many modules. Many are too long. Not sure if the one from Mountain Electronics will fit.

Tried it. It's definitely not the switch. On a whim, I also tried using a 6v battery. It comes on and stays on, but is not very bright. And I can't get it to change modes by turning it off momentarily. The module is definitely hinged, so I'lll just replace it. I'm just curious what could cause this. I guess the regulators in something as small as a torch are in a single IC?

Is this P60 dead?

Micklos

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Timothybil

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Micklos

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DellSuperman

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Micklos

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Timothybil

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Micklos

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StorminMatt

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Micklos

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