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Thread: Maxa Beam question??

  1. #31
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Quote Originally Posted by Echo63 View Post
    one of mine doesn't have a serial label...
    does that mean its a really early G1 ? or just a weird hybrid G2 ?
    Nope, it means that the serial number label was removed, either accidentally or on purpose. The aluminized foil label catches easily and falls off.

    Does your light have a Teflon locator button for the bulb on the front of the lens? If so, it's probably an early G2 light. Later models went to a metal locator button and the latest lights went to using the Spyder lens.

    The generation 3 lights mostly have two connectors on the rear of the light, one for input power and the second for remote control.

    If you remove the lens, then the bulb and reflector, you'll have access to the circuit board. I seem to recall that the circuit board was marked with the generation of the light.
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  2. #32

    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Quote Originally Posted by NoNotAgain View Post
    Nope, it means that the serial number label was removed, either accidentally or on purpose. The aluminized foil label catches easily and falls off.

    Does your light have a Teflon locator button for the bulb on the front of the lens? If so, it's probably an early G2 light. Later models went to a metal locator button and the latest lights went to using the Spyder lens.

    The generation 3 lights mostly have two connectors on the rear of the light, one for input power and the second for remote control.

    If you remove the lens, then the bulb and reflector, you'll have access to the circuit board. I seem to recall that the circuit board was marked with the generation of the light.
    Do you by any chance have a picture of the circuit board?

  3. #33
    Flashaholic* Echo63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??



    It looks like it never had a sticker, and has the teflon button on the lens.
    reflector anodise has a greenish tint to it.
    with parkerVH adapters and Ushio UXL-75XE bulb it was measured at 7.2Mcp.

    My G3-12 still has the factory bulb and should be a 7.5Mcp model, single power input only (i wish it had the remote port)
    it has the normal label that takes up half of the space under the handle with a serial number and model number
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  4. #34
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Quote Originally Posted by Echo63 View Post


    It looks like it never had a sticker, and has the teflon button on the lens.
    The sticker you've got is the same as is used in the factory Pelican hard case.

    I've got 5 Maxa Beam lights. Two generation 2 lights, one MBS450 light which Matt claimed by serial number was one of the last MBS450 lights produced(same as the generation 3 lights) and two generation 3 lights.

    Internally, the generation 2 lights use different adjustment hardware for setting the bulb position.

    As for pictures of the circuit board, they're stored on another computer at this time. I let my Dropbox account expire when they were made changes to a paid storage system only.
    Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    I'll try to respond to some of the key points that have been raised in various posts.

    1. If a light no longer has a serial label, the easiest way to tell if it has a G2 or G3 circuit is listen to the ignition when you first turn on the light. All G2 lights have a spark gap that you can hear when you press the red button to turn on the light. It is a definitely audible zap/buzz. G3 lights are pretty quite although the formation of the arc is audible, sort of a muffled pop.

    2. G1 would refer to what was essentially the original prototype systems from 1988. G2 started with the first "production" Maxa Beam in 1989. So it is very unlikely that you would have a G1 system. The gore valve on the side of the main body was added in early 2001 so that would be something that might tell you if it is earlier or later G2.

    3. Maxa Beam CandlePower History since 2000:

    G2-20 (2000-2004) Last version of G2 circuitry. 75W High and 6MCP.
    G3 (2004-2006) First Version of G3 circuitry. 75W High and 6MCP.
    G3-12 & G3-12R (2006-2011) Introduction of 85W and 7.5MCP. G3-12R denotes remote-ports becoming standard and occurred in 2010.
    ****Enhanced reflectors were introduced in late 2006 as an optional upgrade. The letter "A" was added to the model number, i.e. "410-A".
    G3-20 and Later (2011-present) Enhanced reflector becomes standard and output increased to 12MCP.

    Hopefully that clears up a few points. Let me know if there are any remaining questions.

  6. #36
    Flashaholic* Echo63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Thanks Matt, its a pre-2001 G2 then.
    it is missing the breather on the RHS
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  7. #37

    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Any recommendations on NiCad batteries...Ö..I have performed surgery and opened one of my packs, now its time to find a decent battery.


    I am swimming well above my income level with this light, so budget and staying with NiCad so all I need are the 10 batteries is about my only option I can think of.


    I just do not want to get garbage cells. The cells in it now are SAFT, which are way out of my price range at 20 bucks each.


    PS...these are F cells

    Thanks

  8. #38

    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Quote Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
    Any recommendations on NiCad batteries...Ö..I have performed surgery and opened one of my packs, now its time to find a decent battery.


    I am swimming well above my income level with this light, so budget and staying with NiCad so all I need are the 10 batteries is about my only option I can think of.


    I just do not want to get garbage cells. The cells in it now are SAFT, which are way out of my price range at 20 bucks each.


    PS...these are F cells

    Thanks
    Donít know about nicad cells but I went with 3S5P Samsung 30Q 18650 batteries. Should be able to deliver 12V 75A so itís plenty to go full power. Since you have the box you prolly donít need it but Iíll share the 3D model for the box when Iím done with it. Render here.



  9. #39
    Flashaholic* Echo63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    If you want "budget"
    a 7ah 12v SLA fits in the box.

    one of mine was modded with an SLA before I bought it - the other has the stock NiCad cells.
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Echo63- Something like a motorcycle sized battery with those specs?
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  11. #41
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    That is exactly what I did.
    Quote Originally Posted by Echo63 View Post
    If you want "budget"
    a 7ah 12v SLA fits in the box.

    one of mine was modded with an SLA before I bought it - the other has the stock NiCad cells.
    Bob
    Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    If it will fit a 7Ah SLA, it will fit a 9Ah SLA. They use the same case from all that I have had.
    WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Pichel 75W Mini-Novas

  13. #43

    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    I just checked my stash and I have a brand new SLA, model UB1280, which could not be a closer fit if I custom ordered it....

    But, will the factory maxabeam nicad charger work to charge a SLA ?

    If I have to buy a connector for the maxabeam battery and a special charger, I might as well just but nicads as it is approx. 80 bucks for the batteries to make a pack. I imagine a connector and SLA charger will be at least that much ?


    EDIT:......OK, looks like a SLA charger is pretty cheap, now if I knew what connector the maxabeam uses I could be in business. I don't want to just stick pins on gator clips in the connector hole...Ö.I am cheap/frugal, but things need to be done to a certain level of quality, which in this case would be the proper connector for the battery to charge it to pigtail off the SLA charger.

    EDIT EDIT :...Ö.

    I see now I am batting way above my brain level..... It appears to be some sort of aviation plug. It also looks like inside the battery is a thermal probe and possibly a low voltage cut off circuit. I left all that intact and installed with the SLA. I could just buy a new connector to use with a new charger and replace the one on the battery pack to match then new one and then I would need to replace one end of the supply cable to the light with a matching one...Ö.now we get in over my head, I have no idea what that battery is sending to the head unit thru the cable or what I might mess up doing all of this.


    Since I can not seem to locate the proper thread pitch/plug style aviation connector, I might have to use 2 pins on a lead to charge this new battery as to not have to build all new cables and possibly eliminate something the head unit needs such as the thermal probe or the low voltage cut off sensors inside the battery pack. Assuming that's what those 2 things are inside the battery pack, one is almost certainly a thermal probe, not sure what the other is.....


    EDIT EDIT edit...ÖÖ

    I just noticed a sticker on my maxa charger that shows it has been factory upgraded to gen 3 and is compatable with NiMH batteries...Ö...I might choose NiMH cells to build a pack over NiCad since the charger supports that. I also found out the batteries second thingy inside is a diode to keep it from discharging from the bottom contacts and the other is a thermal probe/switch...Ö.from searching other threads on here.

    I have the SLA pack back together for a dry fit, all soldered up and test fired it, it seems to work fine...Ö..now charging it is the only hurdle left.
    Last edited by unretarded; 10-26-2018 at 01:10 PM.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    I priced some F sized NiMH batteries a few weeks ago, and it's not good news.

    The batteries were 12,000mah rated and were $29 each.

    For another project, I purchased some Tenergy 5/4 sub C 3300mah rated cells with tabs for just over $2.80 each. While I don't have the capacity, of a F cell, I do have a pack that's compatible to be charged with my present charger.
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  15. #45
    Flashaholic* Echo63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Maxa Beam question??

    Quote Originally Posted by Parker VH View Post
    That is exactly what I did.
    If you have only done it once, then thats the battery that came with my Gen2 when I bought it off you...
    you sent me the bits to build a charging lead too.

    the Gen3 has a stock pack
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