Any Lego advantages to a Quark high voltage head?

I just purchased a Quark A series body from FourSevens for 1xAA and 14500 batteries. Have a Quark-X 2xAA and QPLC 1X123 both low voltage heads. Going to test out a 1XAAA adapter as well. It seems like there are many more Lego and battery options for the low voltage head. Am I missing some of the advantages and options of the higher voltage head as thinking about getting one before they're all gone.

On a side note they said keep an eye on their Facebook page for some news in the next few weeks about new products.

Yes as a matter of fact! Some of our staff's favorite combos! I run a QP2L-X head on a A series body with a 14500. It puts out about 780 lumens with a short run time.

4sevens said:

Yes as a matter of fact! Some of our staff's favorite combos! I run a QP2L-X head on a A series body with a 14500. It puts out about 780 lumens with a short run time.

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Thanks for the info.

So they will run 14500. Guessing that's the model with the burst mode.

Correct, to use a 14500, you must have a head which the voltage is within spec. High Voltage heads will need a 14500 to run.

I also run the Burst Mode head on a 14500, and sometimes a 16340 for small pocket rockets. Consider IMRs though, the amp draw is technically high for ICR cells, although good quality cells can take it. The Burst Mode heads also limp with CR123s and CRAAs, say up to ~ 30 lms.

My new favorite Lego, is the 2A-X head on a 2500 mah KP 16650 cell. That's 3-4 Eneloop equiv, but it still fully supports AAs and CR123s, or any cell that fits in the tube (with DIY spacers). In a real pinch, it can be easily rigged to run on ANY battery. (I once had a backpacking partner's light fail - we had a spare light, but now had too many batteries of the wrong type; that won't happen again ).

Advantages are plenty. I scored this when 4sevens did one of the flashlight promos. I can't remember what they called it. David may remember. Anyways, legend has it, I ordered the first one. The 4sevens customer service guy was nice enough to throw in a few extra stickers and pens. The pens with the light. I hope I did't just roll him. lol I asked him to hook me up. But, I gave them all away again. People love these things. lol Of course, David is going to be nice enough to send me about 50 so I can hand them out too.

This obviously is the CR123 body.



Yes the Quark on the right is slightly bent. It's not your eyes. It came that way. Not sure if it is the clip mount that caused that. Its a user/loaner, so I was not too concerned about it.

reppans said:

I also run the Burst Mode head on a 14500, and sometimes a 16340 for small pocket rockets. Consider IMRs though, the amp draw is technically high for ICR cells, although good quality cells can take it. The Burst Mode heads also limp with CR123s and CRAAs, say up to ~ 30 lms.

My new favorite Lego, is the 2A-X head on a 2500 mah KP 16650 cell. That's 3-4 Eneloop equiv, but it still fully supports AAs and CR123s, or any cell that fits in the tube (with DIY spacers). In a real pinch, it can be easily rigged to run on ANY battery. (I once had a backpacking partner's light fail - we had a spare light, but now had too many batteries of the wrong type; that won't happen again ).

Click to expand...

I would imagine the 2A-X head takes up to 4.2 volts. I have one in XM-L G1 but sometimes wonder what are the pros over my low voltage XP-G2. Both to my eye are nearly as bright though do like the increased flood of the XM-L a bit more. I think the lower voltage threshold should allow longer runtime on Lithium ion than the high voltage head but I guess for max output the higher voltage heads would be the ticket. Not sure but planning on 14500 for EDC, 2xNiMH for BOB duty. Never considered 16650? Guessing that runs in a 2xcr123 body.

Str8stroke said:

Advantages are plenty. I scored this when 4sevens did one of the flashlight promos. I can't remember what they called it. David may remember. Anyways, legend has it, I ordered the first one. The 4sevens customer service guy was nice enough to throw in a few extra stickers and pens. The pens with the light. I hope I did't just roll him. lol I asked him to hook me up. But, I gave them all away again. People love these things. lol Of course, David is going to be nice enough to send me about 50 so I can hand them out too.

This obviously is the CR123 body.

Yes the Quark on the right is slightly bent. It's not your eyes. It came that way. Not sure if it is the clip mount that caused that. Its a user/loaner, so I was not too concerned about it.

Click to expand...

I would have sent that back. That little thrower is cool!

Woods Walker said:

I would imagine the 2A-X head takes up to 4.2 volts. I have one in XM-L G1 but sometimes wonder what are the pros over my low voltage XP-G2. Both to my eye are nearly as bright though do like the increased flood of the XM-L a bit more. I think the lower voltage threshold should allow longer runtime on Lithium ion than the high voltage head but I guess for max output the higher voltage heads would be the ticket. Not sure but planning on 14500 for EDC, 2xNiMH for BOB duty. Never considered 16650? Guessing that runs in a 2xcr123 body.

Click to expand...

Yes, all Quark LV heads are 0.9-4.2v and HV are 3-9v with excellent current regulation (ie, lower modes don't shift on voltage like many other lights).

For me, it's the floodier beam, brighter moonlight mode, and tight low end mode spacing (vs HV heads). The larger, yet lower lux, XML hotspot with brighter spill combine with the 0.3/3/25 close mode spacing on the LV XML is ideal for me with dark-adapted eyes and my close/medium range task work.

You do NOT want to use the LV head boost driver for longer runtime on Li-ions though... you will destabilize the cell by over-discharging and risk a Roman candle when you go to charge it up (sooner or later). The LV head is a must for me as I want to be able to power my light on any alkaline (9v thru D).

Woods Walker said:

I would have sent that back. That little thrower is cool!

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It was me Reid, you talked to. That configuration we call the monster mini. I have one I carry in the car and I love it. It has amazing throw for such a small light.

We still do have the parts to build this configuration if anyone is interested, just email us and ask us for the Monster Mini!

4sevens said:

It was me Reid, you talked to.....

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Eh?.... using David's handle?

reppans said:

Yes, all Quark LV heads are 0.9-4.2v and HV are 3-9v with excellent current regulation (ie, lower modes don't shift on voltage like many other lights).

For me, it's the floodier beam, brighter moonlight mode, and tight low end mode spacing (vs HV heads). The larger, yet lower lux, XML hotspot with brighter spill combine with the 0.3/3/25 close mode spacing on the LV XML is ideal for me with dark-adapted eyes and my close/medium range task work.

You do NOT want to use the LV head boost driver for longer runtime on Li-ions though... you will destabilize the cell by over-discharging and risk a Roman candle when you go to charge it up (sooner or later). The LV head is a must for me as I want to be able to power my light on any alkaline (9v thru D).

Click to expand...

Wouldn't the battery's protection circuit shut down the battery before over discharge issues should occur?

reppans said:

Eh?.... using David's handle?

Click to expand...

using the Foursevens handle?

It's not really all that difficult to sign your posts.

Thanks,
-Chuck

No problem chuck!

Thanks
Reid

Woods Walker said:

Wouldn't the battery's protection circuit shut down the battery before over discharge issues should occur?

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Yes, the protection circuit will save you, but It's not advisable to use it as a low battery indicator. For one, it's a $0.10 component (where failure could lead to significant consequences), and for another, the light will cut-out suddenly, and potentially at an inappropriate moment.

4sevens said:

using the Foursevens handle?

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Thought you had your own.... (Drclaw?). Anyways, just nice to know which are OFFICIAL official responses .

Anyways, back to the topic!



Thanks
Reid

reppans said:

Yes, the protection circuit will save you, but It's not advisable to use it as a low battery indicator. For one, it's a $0.10 component (where failure could lead to significant consequences), and for another, the light will cut-out suddenly, and potentially at an inappropriate moment.

Click to expand...

Good points though sudden flashlight cut off seems like a more probable issue which I dislike.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

Ok I got the A series body. Fast shipping which is always a plus. Upped the hiking pack to 35 lbs for the daily or rather sometimes nightly conditioning hikes.



Violets are a wild edible. I ate the flowers and leaves. The roots are a no go. Remember never eat any wild plant unless you're 100% certain of the ID.





What's in the PSK. During winter it's only CR123 as the NiMH would freeze. Added the AA body but kept the CR123 body as well. Might take that out till cooler weather moves in or might not? Removed the clip which just gets in my way. The AAA is also there for a reason.



I was happy that the 1xCR123 sheath also fits the 1xAA.



Fenix LD10 XP-G1 R4 vs. 4/7 low voltage lego XP G2 (guessing R5).



On high it's hard to distinguish which is brighter. On turbo the LD10 had an edge but in practical terms it didn't matter. The LD10 is very bright for the first seconds on Turbo. Still the output was so good on the 4/7 lego in turbo. Both used Duraloops. The tint on the XP-G2 was better IMHO than XP-G1. I think the Fenix for a few reasons might be more durable (no real proof of that) but the low modes and a few other subjective factors gives the 4/7 the overall edge in 1xAA.



My EDC carry and headlamp.



Time to move along. Got 2 miles more to go.

Same here: QTA, QT2L-X Head, 14500.