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Thread: McGizmo light engine build

  1. #1

    Default McGizmo light engine build

    Hello all,

    I'd like to build a couple of McGizmo light engines and I would like to know if I can get the parts to do so.
    The 700mA and 1200 mA GDuP drivers look like they would be a start, some LED/MCPCB of an appropriate size and a board for the cathode battery connection.
    What I'm unsure of is if there is a screw in "can" suitable for the current McGizmo lights (Haiku, Mule and Sundrop). I've looked at the Sandwich Shoppe website and saw some bits and pieces for making Aleph light engines but wasn't 100% sure about what the deal is.
    Any help/information/instruction on building some of these light engines and the parts needed would be appreciated.

    Cheers
    Last edited by F89; 07-23-2015 at 04:52 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    After having another look at the website I think I have more of an idea?
    What I need to know now is if the Seoul XR Can is appropriate and if it can screw in easily from the rear of the head like the McGizmo can?
    If so it looks like all I need is the GDuP driver which comes with the contact board and some LED MCPCB's that fit inside the diameter of the Seoul XR Can.
    Does anyone have some feedback on using the Seoul XR Can?

  3. #3
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    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Correct, you will need an Aleph can, a converter board, an MCPCB with an emitter, some lead wire, soldering skills and supplies. You can get much of this, including the Aleph cans at the Sandwich Shoppe. I took a stab at a similar project early this year. Mine didn't work, and I haven't had time to try again really, but my rudimentary build thread may be helpful to you. If you have questions, you might find them there, or you can post in it as some folks who visited were quite knowledgeable. My expertise is hardly expert.

  4. #4

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    Correct, you will need an Aleph can, a converter board, an MCPCB with an emitter, some lead wire, soldering skills and supplies. You can get much of this, including the Aleph cans at the Sandwich Shoppe. I took a stab at a similar project early this year. Mine didn't work, and I haven't had time to try again really, but my rudimentary build thread may be helpful to you. If you have questions, you might find them there, or you can post in it as some folks who visited were quite knowledgeable. My expertise is hardly expert.
    Thanks nbp.
    Cindy replied to a pm I sent advising that there were Aleph Cree Cans in stock, I didn't even know they existed as when I last looked it was just the Seoul, anyway they had two so I bought them both along with two of the GDuP 3 level drivers with 700mA max.
    I've got some appropriate sized MCPCB's to fit the Cree Can so it looks like I'll be all set to make a couple of light engines when my package arrives from the U.S.A.
    I just need to decide on which LED's to use now, I'm thinking an XPG2 and XML2 of sorts.

  5. #5
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    Default McGizmo light engine build

    I got some MCPCBs from Vesture Of Blood on the MP. He has the right size Sinkpads and had a couple emitter options he'll reflow on for you to save you the pain of doing it. Nice guy, well worth the money. Otherwise I think Illumn is where a lot of guys go for bare emitters. But my knowledge is limited.

  6. #6

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Quote Originally Posted by nbp View Post
    I got some MCPCBs from Vesture Of Blood on the MP. He has the right size Sinkpads and had a couple emitter options he'll reflow on for you to save you the pain of doing it. Nice guy, well worth the money. Otherwise I think Illumn is where a lot of guys go for bare emitters. But my knowledge is limited.
    I have some 16mm Noctigon boards that should work. They are a fraction less in diameter and thickness of the Cree Can opening but they should work fine.
    They'll be mounted with an XPG2 in 5000K and an XPL in 4000K.

  7. #7

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    I just found this thread and was wondering how the build is coming.

    As you have noted, Cindy at the SS is helpful. Matt at VoB is super to deal with also. (I wonder if he would build Aleph/McGizmo engines?)

    I am sure you have discovered the older threads on this topic, some of them going back more than 10 years. In them, our hero, McGizmo himself offers helpful tips for building Aleph engines. These threads may be somewhat outdated, with the newer "cans" from SS now in use. (I hope SS restocks, if you bought them out! The Aleph lives on!)

    For my Aleph engine builds, I pretty much studied the very helpful nbp thread. Especially datiLEDs comments. He is tops with Aleph engines and I hope to get another one or two of his if he releases any more.

    My main tips would be:

    1. Test everything (driver, LED board) on the bench before assembling. This is the best place to catch problems, rather than later in the process.

    2. Make sure of good electrical connections to the LED board, especially if it is one of those "more-difficult-to-solder" copper ones, otherwise you might kill the driver.

    3. Get a good ground connection between the driver and the can. I used a ground wire. Just easier for me.

    4. Read datiLEDs tips again. Use flux.

    I too am always on the look-out for tiny drivers to use in these Aleph builds. I tried the 12mm Mountain Electronics DD12, and it works great, with a copper washer (from a Saab drain-plug I think) soldered around the rim to mount to the Aleph can. It has a lot of punch and way too much heat on high, but the lower modes are fine. (For me, Alephs are more about kinder-gentler lumens.)

    If any of you guys reading this come across driver candidates for Aleph engines, I would sure be interested to hear about them!

    Good luck!
    Last edited by Ladd; 08-03-2015 at 11:18 AM.
    Thanks, CPF!

  8. #8

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Built both light engines today.
    Pretty fiddly and if I were to do it again I'd revise a few things.
    Both work in all my McGizmo lights and don't look too rough. I was a little concerned about centring for use in the Haiku but they sit nicely.
    Not sure which one I like best? The XPG2 has a nice white tint with the best throw in the Haiku but not the smoothest beam on the wall. The XPL is a bit brighter with a bigger hotspot and nice smooth beam with a decent tint. A success on both counts I'd say.
    I like the levels on this driver (10, 180, 700 mA), the low is better than a stock McGizmo and there is a more pronounced step between the levels.
    Looking forward to trying them out tonight.
    Last edited by F89; 08-24-2015 at 10:15 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Congrats on the Builds! That's actually a pretty decent accomplishment.

    I'll bet they look better than my first couple of McG engines. But they are still working.....
    Last edited by Ladd; 08-24-2015 at 10:26 PM.
    Thanks, CPF!

  10. #10

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Quote Originally Posted by Ladd View Post
    Congrats on the Builds! That's actually a pretty decent accomplishment.

    I'll bet they look better than my first couple of McG engines. But they are still working.....
    Cheers Ladd, I'm sure I could do a cleaner job but then again I've seen far worse. These pass aesthetically in a Mule or SunDrop.
    I've currently got the XPL in my Haiku and will leave it in for a while to see how I like it. It's an interesting looking emitter, quite tall and squared off but just fits through the hole of the reflector intended for a 119V.
    I might put the XPG2 in my Mule or SunDrop tonight and give it a run too.
    On a quick observation comparing the XPG2 to XPL in my Haiku against another light (don't have two Haiku's on hand) the XPG2 has a very obvious advantage in hotspot brightness so it would make a great thrower. Beam smoothness goes to the XPL. Tint is subjective but the XPG2 has a nice clean white with little tint shift where the XPL while nice has more tint shift similar to an XML(2).

    Edit.
    Just swapped back to the XPG2 and I have to say that the beam is actually just as smooth as the XPL. Just not quite as bright, smaller and brighter hotspot and whiter tint with no tint shift.
    Last edited by F89; 08-24-2015 at 11:18 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Update.
    The XPG2 will stay in my Haiku.
    The XPL throws out great light but these XPG2 S3 3A LED's I got are beautiful in the Haiku. Pure white, well close anyway, about 5000K apparently, little to no tint shift across the beam and surprisingly good CRI which must be around 80 to 85 on a guess.

  12. #12

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Sounds Great!
    You are making me hungry for another McG engine build. This time I'm going to try the new Nichia 219c emitter that djozz is kindly sending along from Amsterdam. I don't quite know what to use for a converter board yet....
    Thanks, CPF!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    That's the hardest part. There aren't a lot of converter boards the right size.

  14. #14

    Default Re: McGizmo light engine build

    Quote Originally Posted by Ladd View Post
    Sounds Great!
    You are making me hungry for another McG engine build. This time I'm going to try the new Nichia 219c emitter that djozz is kindly sending along from Amsterdam. I don't quite know what to use for a converter board yet....
    Go for it.
    I'm tempted to make a hi cri warm XPG(2).
    Are the Seoul cans pretty similar to the cree?

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