Foursevens Atom Light-engines--cool beasts

lampeDépêche

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So a year ago I ran some tests on the Atom AA model. Turned out that they ran for over ten days on low, 24 hours a day, on a mediocre NIMH rechargeable (i.e. not a brand new Eneloop or whatever). I got about the same, i.e. roughly 250 hours, with a brand new Lithium L91, but with brighter output throughout the run.

So last month, on June 15th, I started the light-engine out of an Atom CR2 running on top of a crappy D-Cell (branded by "CVS" pharmacies, who knows who the real maker is).

It just stopped this morning, after going continuously for 1.5 months. The whole time, it provided plenty of light to light up a bathroom. A bit too much light for a traditional night-light, in fact--more like 3-4 lumens, instead of the sub-lumen brightness that I like at night.

One D-cell, 1.5 months, usable light the whole time. Final voltage, 0.58. Not drained as hard as some vampires might, but on the other hand there really are not a lot of watt-hours left when the voltage is that low.

This light-engine came from an Atom CR2, as I said--the light-engines are threaded into the head, and easy to remove without doing any damage at all. I unscrewed it, put it on top of the D-cell with a little button-magnet, and twisted up a paper-clip to connect the negative end. The battery sat on its negative end, on top of a loop of paper-clip, and there was enough spring-tension in the top end of the clip to contact the brass threads of the light-engine and make a good contact.

All of the Atom light-engines (except possibly the AAA models?) are omnivorous, consuming anything from 4.2 down to--well, around 0.58 in this case.

This thing is a little slug about 1.5 cm in diameter, and about 1 cm thick. It can run in low mode, which was how I had it, or in high mode, where it will put out about 60-70 lumens from a 1.5v battery or about 100 lumens from a 3-4v lithium.

If you think of it as your all-purpose battery scrounger, it is a very handy piece of tiny kit. This plus a paper clip, and you get usable light out of all the most common battery types.

Otherwise, it makes a great night-light, possibly a bit too bright. I like the Atom AA for my night-light, because it's closer to 1 lumen. I still use that in the upstairs bathroom, changing the rechargeable every couple of weeks.

Oh, and I EDC the 123 size. Having tried all of them, I like that best for EDC.
 

calipsoii

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4sevens circuits have always been excellent since the outset. David was very proud of the circuit in the Revo - going so far as to dare someone on CPF Marketplace to crack open their light and look at the board inside. I don't believe anyone ever took him up on the challenge. The amount of engineering packed into a AAA-diameter converter is extremely impressive.

Zebralight has likely surpassed 4sevens in performance but they still haven't packed the same efficiency and flexibility into such small diameter boards.
 

lampeDépêche

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I have to say I am always schizophrenic about CR2 lights. They are so tiny and cute that I can't resist them, and the output is often phenomenal (as in this case).

But after I have EDC'ed it for awhile, I worry about the difficulty of getting batteries, and then I notice that the 123 version is really not *that* much bigger, and has twice the battery life.

So my CR2 lights usually fall out of EDC rotation pretty fast. That's why i was willing to cannibalize this for the light-engine. Plus, if I ever want to re-commission it, I just screw the pill back in and there's no harm done.
 

reppans

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IMHO, 47 lights make the best emergency/SHTF lights with their wide voltage tolerance, head design, "bright"/usable moonlights, and superb efficiency on low lows. If battery scavenging and flashlight MacGyvering are an option, then you should be able perpetually illuminate with some simple wallet accessories. Quarks and Atoms have wide voltage support (although Atoms are not well regulated) and can run any battery (ie, from 9V to 26650), and Quarks, Atoms and Revos have bare negatively ground threads, which makes them easy to rig for oversized cells (no need to pull the pill and risk 47s excellent warranty) - clicky. In a pinch, you even easily rig their Preon Penlight to run 0.3 lms for 200+ hours on 2AAA NiMh. In terms of moonlight efficiency (lm-hrs) on a NiMh, by my lightbox and ammeter, they all blow away my ZL SC52 and AT Prime Pro A1, despite spec claims of the opposite ;).
 
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WalkIntoTheLight

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In terms of moonlight efficiency (lm-hrs) on a NiMh, by my lightbox and ammeter, they all blow away my ZL SC52 and AT Prime Pro A1, despite spec claims of the opposite ;).

Yes, Quarks (the AA and 2xAA models) have the best efficiency at low levels I've seen. Very good at medium and high mode too. However, they really suck on maximum. I don't know why they use so much power on their maximum output, because it's not pushing the LED that hard even on the 2xAA Quarks. 700mA for the XPG2 model, and something under 1000mA for the XML2 model. That's about a third power, and should be the sweet spot for efficiency on those LEDs.
 

reppans

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Yes, Quarks (the AA and 2xAA models) have the best efficiency at low levels I've seen. Very good at medium and high mode too. However, they really suck on maximum. I don't know why they use so much power on their maximum output, because it's not pushing the LED that hard even on the 2xAA Quarks. 700mA for the XPG2 model, and something under 1000mA for the XML2 model. That's about a third power, and should be the sweet spot for efficiency on those LEDs.

Yes, they seem to use more power than they should at Max on 1 or 2 Eneloops, given the lower drive levels, but on 14500s my QAAXs significantly beat (lumens per amp) both my SC52 and Prime Pro A1. That said, the latter two are harder driven and so should have lower efficiency.

Did you receive/test your Prime A1 yet? Still trying to determine if my sample's inefficiency on an Eneloop is normal or not.
 

lampeDépêche

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Would like see pictures of the set up, please.

Yoyoman--have a look at the photo that reppans linked in his #5. That's pretty much the same set-up that I'm describing in my OP, except that (as he says) he left the pill threaded into the head. And I suspect he has a long-ish magnet connecting the plus-terminal of the D-cell to the contact inside the Atom head. ('zat right, reppans?

Yeah, it is extra easy to "McGyver" the Atom and Revo because the external stainless steel on the head acts as the negative, so you just have to touch a wire to the outside of the head and you've got a circuit. (Quarks are a little harder because of anodizing).

Interesting about better efficiency than ZL--I didn't know that.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Yes, they seem to use more power than they should at Max on 1 or 2 Eneloops, given the lower drive levels, but on 14500s my QAAXs significantly beat (lumens per amp) both my SC52 and Prime Pro A1. That said, the latter two are harder driven and so should have lower efficiency.

Okay, I don't use 14500's, so I can't test efficiency with those.

Did you receive/test your Prime A1 yet? Still trying to determine if my sample's inefficiency on an Eneloop is normal or not.

Yes, haven't had a chance to do any detailed measurements on it. Output looks similar to the A2 on all modes but max, but no idea on the efficiency yet.

Interesting about better efficiency than ZL--I didn't know that.

The Quarks are definitely more efficient on moonlight and low. But, at least on Eneloops, the Zebralight SC52 is more efficienct on medium and high modes.
 

StudFreeman

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Reppans,
What was that about the Preon Penlight and a sub-lumen mode? Care to elaborate?
 

reppans

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... I suspect he has a long-ish magnet connecting the plus-terminal of the D-cell to the contact inside the Atom head. ('zat right, reppans?

Yeah, it is extra easy to "McGyver" the Atom and Revo because the external stainless steel on the head acts as the negative, so you just have to touch a wire to the outside of the head and you've got a circuit. (Quarks are a little harder because of anodizing).

Interesting about better efficiency than ZL--I didn't know that.

Reppans,
What was that about the Preon Penlight and a sub-lumen mode? Care to elaborate?

My primary EDC is a low voltage Quark XML running a 16650 and a Revo as my keychain back-up. I keep a piece of tinfoil in my wallet to make dummy cells/spacers so I can run any smaller cell in the tube if in a pinch -clicky. Also keep a paperclip in my wallet to run any larger cell - clicky. Same principle applies to the Atom (I run my paperclips to the inside threads) although that pic does happen to be run with "Buckyball" magnets (which I EDC for battery charger MacGyvering ;)). And lastly, this is my Revo with wallet diffuser in lantern mode.

The Preon Penlight (not to be confused with the P2) is also a wide-ish voltage 0.9-3V head. Similar to what I mentioned above with the Atoms, it also does not voltage-regulate well on low so a you'll get ~0.3 lms/7 ma/>100 hrs (which is very efficient) on a single NiMh run with a tinfoil dummy cell as spacer. Medium boosts quite well but you'll lose a little runtime due to lower voltage efficiency, and high obviously falls way short of spec. I consider this to be an emergency runtime option, but if you wanted to run it as moonlight 2-mode penlight, then I'd roll a nail in duct tape as a permanent spacer. If you can, always run DIY spacers at the negative end of a live battery.
 

lampeDépêche

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If you can, always run DIY spacers at the negative end of a live battery.

Can you say more about that last part? I would have thought that the spacer was basically a zero-resistance wire (whether a nail or aluminum foil or whatever), and so it would not matter where in the circuit it went. But I know very little about electronics, so I'd like to hear more.

Ah the Revo....[dramatic sigh] If I could ask the Ghost of Foursevens Past to bring back only one light, it would probably be the Revo SS NW. I'm glad I still have mine, but I worry I'll lose it some day.

In the context of McGyvering, though, it is worth pointing out that the Revo does *not* take the higher voltages. It's okay on 1.5 volt Lithium primaries (which are actually up to 1.7 when fresh), but I think anything higher than 2v would kill it.


[Now lemme tell you about my nephew. Great kid, got married about five years ago to a great gal, now they have two littles of their own, my brother's first grandkids, I love 'em all. I love them! They're like family to me! Both my nephew and his wife are in law enforcement, so for their wedding I bought them a pair of SS Revos, couldn't find NW but I got them CW. Shiny jewels they were. Have they ever said to me, "thanks, uncle, for giving us the finest AAA lights ever made?" No they have not. Did I mention I love these kids? Great kids. But sometimes I wonder whether I shouldn't have gotten them something by Rayovac, and kept the pair of Revo's for myself.....]
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Can you say more about that last part? I would have thought that the spacer was basically a zero-resistance wire (whether a nail or aluminum foil or whatever), and so it would not matter where in the circuit it went. But I know very little about electronics, so I'd like to hear more.

Maybe reppans has another reason for it, but if I'm experimenting with extending a AAA or AAAA cell to fit in a AA light, I'm usually just using a ball of aluminum foil. If you use it on the positive terminal, then there's a chance if you're sloppy that the foil could contact the inside wall of the light, and cause a short. The wall is normally part of the negative terminal, once the switch is on.

Also, if the cell has any nicks in the wrapper, again you could cause a short in the battery itself, although that's probably less likely than shorting to the wall of the light.
 

reppans

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Maybe reppans has another reason for it, but if I'm experimenting with extending a AAA or AAAA cell to fit in a AA light, I'm usually just using a ball of aluminum foil. If you use it on the positive terminal, then there's a chance if you're sloppy that the foil could contact the inside wall of the light, and cause a short. The wall is normally part of the negative terminal, once the switch is on.

Also, if the cell has any nicks in the wrapper, again you could cause a short in the battery itself, although that's probably less likely than shorting to the wall of the light.

^^ yes, this is the reason... a sloppy piece of foil touching anything from the positive end of the battery can contact the negatively ground flashlight inside walls (if unanodized) and cause a dead short with the battery, and potentially kaboom depending upon chemistry. A sloppy piece of foil touching anything from the negative side of the battery will simply turn the light on.

I just bought a NW Revo backup, at a premium of course, from the marketplace. Almost went for a 3rd one too ;) - yeah I'm aware of the <2V limitation, but alks are really your best chance with scavenged cells anyways.
 
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StudFreeman

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Reppans,
Interesting, I did not know the Penlight's boost driver worked down to that low. Thanks for the heads-up.
 
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