Aftermarket tailcap options for Surefire E1b?

Are there aftermarket tailcaps that will work on a Surefire E1b? I have the older one, not the newer EB1. Mine is the standard one that comes on in HIGH when you click it, then LOW if you click it again within two seconds. I'd love something more like the newer EB1 Tactical (press partway for LOW, press all the way for HIGH, tighten tailcap for constant on).

I was looking around over at Overready and to be honest it's bewildering! I have a lot of lights and have been a light fan for decades. But I've never really modded them before and the options are a bit overwhelming.

This is a tricky one. McGizmo made aftermarket tailcap inserts that gave the stock e series switches the capability you're describing however I believe Surefire put an end to it. I'm not exactly sure how it happened and I'm sure there are members here who can recount the tale with more details but the long and short of it is that there were only so many made and they can be hard to find. If you want to do some Googleing or take a look on the sale forum, I think the Mc2es is what you're looking for. He made them in several resistance values, corresponding with how much output the low mode makes. He marked them up with nail Polish or something to indicate the difference.

I have one. It took a long time to find it and I'm probably going to hold on to it for as long as there are still e series lights in circulation.

Good luck!

Edit: I should note that it is not the tailcap that controls the mode switching in your e1b. That is the the electronics in the head. Whatever switch you find, it's not going to work like you want as long as the light itself is two stage. Any of the single mode e series lights like the old incans will work or any single mode aftermarket head (Malkoff MDC or one of Tana's creations) will work fine.

I'm not fully understanding the "issue". The McClicky was originally designed for the E series light and I've upgraded all of my E1 series tail caps to include a McClicky (E1L, 2 E1E's and a E2E). It's actually easy to do. Also, by design, all SureFire tail caps are automatically lockout capable. Just unscrew the cap 3/4's of a turn and it will act as momentary on but require complete twist to have constant on.

I have both a spare E1 tail cap w/ McClicky installed and an E series RTM tail cap. I'd be willing to part with either under the right circumstances. Shoot me a PM if you'd like to see pictures

Thanks, guys! I had a vague inkling of the issues with the McGizmo but I never heard the details. Bartko09, a couple quick questions- does the E1 tail cap you have perform the way I was describing, ie allowing accessing both HIGH and LOW via tightening the cap, and remove the alternating push system of the stock cap? If so I am interested! I will take it PM if so.:thumbsup:

My recent purchase of an Elzetta Alpha and some Malkoff drop ins has me really interested in higher end stuff now. Still, I have an irrational amount of love for my ol' E1b! So much so that I have two of them. Even though I feel Surefire falls a little short of absolute build quality vs Elzetta and Malkoff I can't imagine ever parting with my E1b's. But I would love to be able to mod them a bit to fix the minor issues I have with the way they operate.

D'oh! I didn't read your post close enough. I see the model #'s you're talking about. They use a different tailcap than the E1b, or at least I've never seen those on the E1b.

Are they different? I know that the defender tail cap is certainly different, but I think the E1B, E1L & E1E all use the same tail cap. Here's my E1E pictured below. The E1L can be seen behind it. Are the tail caps similar?

It's not knurled at all, mine has lines running longitudinally down the tail cap. But I suppose the bodies are probably the same size. How does the tail cap function on that E1E?

Oh ok! I stand corrected! The E1B is different. I totally forgot until you started describing it.

See those two "notches" where the rubber boot is? That unscrews giving you access to the "guts" of the switch. Theoretically you should be able to unscrew that, drop a McClicky in and put it all back together. Although I've never done it on that style tail cap. I know that the new EB1s are glued shut, but so are the 6P tail caps and I unglued mine to remove the guts by baking it for a half hour at 375. Hahaha! I know, it sounds crazy but it works. However, I'll tell u the same thing I told a buddy with a EB1, unless you read or have someone who's done it walking u through it.... I wouldn't do it. Sorry man

...to be fair I have no idea if they glued the old E1Bs closed. Take two very small flat heads and a vice and see if u can my screw it. But I'd experiment very slowly not know what's under the hood [emoji6]

Thanks, Bartko. It's not a pressing need but I will keep an eye open for options.

Tobrien suggested boiling the tail cap, but again, what's the insides look like and/or the configuration of the new switch? Plus the spring of the EB1 is much bigger than the E1E or E1L so is the same true for the E1B? If so how do u mitigate that. Not sure buddy but you've come to the right place to search for the answer 😉

I think even if you were able to install a high/low tailcap, the light is going to come on high, and then low every time you activate it because of the electronics in the head unless you replace it with a 3v Scout Light head or the single mode VTAC head.

I put an LED Defender head on my LX2 and the low and high functions worked, but if you turned off the light then on again within a second or so, it would be a low and high version of the low mode, if that makes sense.

fresh eddie fresh said:

I think even if you were able to install a high/low tailcap, the light is going to come on high, and then low every time you activate it because of the electronics in the head unless you replace it with a 3v Scout Light head or the single mode VTAC head.

I put an LED Defender head on my LX2 and the low and high functions worked, but if you turned off the light then on again within a second or so, it would be a low and high version of the low mode, if that makes sense.

Click to expand...

Eddie's got it right. Simply putting a McClicky in your light won't change anything. The e1b already has a factory clicky tailcap and as mentioned twice now, the hi/low functionality in the e1b is in the head, not the tail.

I will be honest, when the EB1 came out, I really didn't have an interest in it... the E1B, on the other hand, may not be the most current, efficient, or highest speed flashlight out there, but it is bright enough for me for everyday use, and I prefer the regulated output.

I ended up buying several "backup Backups" when they started going on sale. It is a great light just the way it is... well, maybe a little better to grip when it is wet out with a Scout Tailcap on it.

fresh eddie fresh said:

I think even if you were able to install a high/low tailcap, the light is going to come on high, and then low every time you activate it because of the electronics in the head unless you replace it with a 3v Scout Light head or the single mode VTAC head.

I put an LED Defender head on my LX2 and the low and high functions worked, but if you turned off the light then on again within a second or so, it would be a low and high version of the low mode, if that makes sense.

Click to expand...

fresh eddie fresh said:

I will be honest, when the EB1 came out, I really didn't have an interest in it... the E1B, on the other hand, may not be the most current, efficient, or highest speed flashlight out there, but it is bright enough for me for everyday use, and I prefer the regulated output.

I ended up buying several "backup Backups" when they started going on sale. It is a great light just the way it is... well, maybe a little better to grip when it is wet out with a Scout Tailcap on it.

Click to expand...

GeoBruin said:

Eddie's got it right. Simply putting a McClicky in your light won't change anything. The e1b already has a factory clicky tailcap and as mentioned twice now, the hi/low functionality in the e1b is in the head, not the tail.

Click to expand...

Rob, I quoted these because they are all spot on. I believe the best way to get the high/low feature is to simply buy a new EB1T which is made with the two-stage tailcap. There's simply no practical way to convert your E1B to do what you want it to.

I will say I have an E1B and it is my favorite pocket carry light. I carry a FourSevens Mini123 while I'm at work, but if I'm taking out the trash or walking around the neighborhood, etc, the E1B is clipped to my pants.

Great points! I forgot/didn't realize the switching is in the head, not the cap. I'll have to live with it as is, I suppose.

Not sure what feature/s are important to you, e.g. type of battery, or run time. I sent my silver E1b to Wayne a few days ago to install his DriverVN2. It's a cool driver, here's the ling to it's description; http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-DriverVN-amp-DriverVNX-Programmable-Circuits

One thing to keep in mind though. Once the DriverVN2 is installed, you'll have to use an IMR16340. However, I'm not sue what the run time will be. For myself, I'm not looking for a max type of run time, but the ability to program the E1b to have a low / high with NO memory ui.

Wayne originally installed a low / high with memory, prior to this driver. I think it was a year and a half, plus ago. I had to run RCR16340, but WOW, he turned that light into a Pocket Rocket.

Light should be back soon. Can't wait to fire the light up! ... :thumbsup:

Pops