Hi all,
After developing the sunbeam, I decided to create a small sidekick that would function as a "backup" light, this is one of my latest builds in super small super bright flashlights (Smaller, brighter, better :devil: )
My favourite LED emitter by far has been the 4000K MT-G2, its uniform circular appearance, nice tint and of course whopping lumens makes it an ideal light for flooding a room with light
So I thought of making an even smaller light, just to see how small an MT-G2 light can be, I also wanted something exotic and well maintable, I've recently taken a liking for titanium lights, since it maintains its appearance well (it can be sanded and polished) and it just looks nice (Titanium :thumbsup: )
After some searching around, I found a nice light that I could potentially mod, the Thrunite T10T
This light has many good reviews everywhere, in sort, the one I got from the thrunite store is spec-ed as follows:
T10T Ti
- OP NW XP-G2 (I think 3c), 169 lumens with AA, 400-500 with 14500
- High, Medium, Moonlight (memory after 3 seconds)
- 1 X 1.5V AA Battery (0.9-3V range)
- Titanium (G4?), 93.5mm x 19mm, 37.4g
- Tailstand dual switch interface, reverse clicky / twisty
After playing with the light for a few days, began to start gathering parts around to mod the light, first thing to do was to find out how to open the light, I was prepared to inflict light scratches and scuffs on it, being titanium, it can be sanded and polished away, unlike anodized aluminum, which must be re-anodized
Taping both the head and the bezel with lots of painters tape, it was easily opened with 2 pilers grabbing on to them, I somehow still managed to scratch the head, but it was polished off, I didn't see any red or green thread locker so it might just be a normal locking compound
Opening the head reveal a tiny (10mm?) led on a aluminum star, reflector removed (the LED pictured is NOT a XP-G2, but a Osram 4000k 92 cri reflowed for "testing" purposes
)
I wasn't even sure if the MT-G2 could even fit into such a small space, so I sanded down the star until its essentially just the LED remaining, in the background is a comparison between a 16mm XHP-50 and a 18mm triple nichia 219a
Next up, sanding of a special reflector, the stock reflector cannot be used due to design and the wires will get pressed against the bottom, leaving a gap, for reference the reflector I used to make the MT-G2 reflector was taken from a Brass 18650 (its currently using a TIR optic, hence the spare reflector, its design allows it to be sanded down to fit and it will sit flush against the LED with space for the wires)
The next headache (and probably the most important of all) was to get a driver to run the whole thing, the space under the light was so small, I had to sand and remove 6 chips from a 105c QLITE driver and stack another 3 chips, one on an existing and another 2 via small wires for a grand total of 6 chips (2.2a), there is simply NO MORE SPACE for any additional chips, decided this would be temporary and uneeded, a 12mm FET is on the way
How was I able to power everything? Using 2 x 14250 battery, like these guys here, a 14250 battery is roughly half the size of a 14500, at 300mah each, about the same capacity as a 10440 battery
Last but not least, I didn't really like reverse clicky switches, so I set out to find a way to convert the reverse clicky to a forward clicky. I managed to sand a normal forward clicky switch down to the same diameter as the original reverse clicky, attach a small wire from one of the metal plates inside to the bottom of the switch and soldered a small spring to it, put everything back together, it seems to work fine, however, due to either the design or my switch "retrofit", there were gaps (button can't click) and some shorting of batteries, due to the batteries touching the back of the light against the switch, pushing it backwards, after much experimentation, I put a piece of o-ring and a cut out paper with a hole for the spring at the back of the light, ensuring the battery does not touch the metal surface
And finally.. the completed light, the amount of light it produces for its size is unbelievable, it is even brighter then my triple osram, its a nearly full flood beam with a very large hotspot, which is perfect for lighting up the whole area, guestimate lumens would be about 800-1000-ish lumens on high (1500+ when 12mm 6v guppydrv FET driver comes in)
Stock clip has been replaced by a (mcgizmo?) ti clip
Light now joins the "sunbeam" family, a Download Pocket Rocket Ti (2 x 18350, 18x7135 guppydrv, 3000 lumen XHP-50) "Sunbeam" and a Sunwayman V10R Ti (1 X 16340, guppydrv 8x7135 Triple Osram 4000K 92cri) "Mini Sunbeam"
Thanks for reading!!
After developing the sunbeam, I decided to create a small sidekick that would function as a "backup" light, this is one of my latest builds in super small super bright flashlights (Smaller, brighter, better :devil: )
My favourite LED emitter by far has been the 4000K MT-G2, its uniform circular appearance, nice tint and of course whopping lumens makes it an ideal light for flooding a room with light
So I thought of making an even smaller light, just to see how small an MT-G2 light can be, I also wanted something exotic and well maintable, I've recently taken a liking for titanium lights, since it maintains its appearance well (it can be sanded and polished) and it just looks nice (Titanium :thumbsup: )
After some searching around, I found a nice light that I could potentially mod, the Thrunite T10T
This light has many good reviews everywhere, in sort, the one I got from the thrunite store is spec-ed as follows:
T10T Ti
- OP NW XP-G2 (I think 3c), 169 lumens with AA, 400-500 with 14500
- High, Medium, Moonlight (memory after 3 seconds)
- 1 X 1.5V AA Battery (0.9-3V range)
- Titanium (G4?), 93.5mm x 19mm, 37.4g
- Tailstand dual switch interface, reverse clicky / twisty
After playing with the light for a few days, began to start gathering parts around to mod the light, first thing to do was to find out how to open the light, I was prepared to inflict light scratches and scuffs on it, being titanium, it can be sanded and polished away, unlike anodized aluminum, which must be re-anodized
Taping both the head and the bezel with lots of painters tape, it was easily opened with 2 pilers grabbing on to them, I somehow still managed to scratch the head, but it was polished off, I didn't see any red or green thread locker so it might just be a normal locking compound
Opening the head reveal a tiny (10mm?) led on a aluminum star, reflector removed (the LED pictured is NOT a XP-G2, but a Osram 4000k 92 cri reflowed for "testing" purposes
)
I wasn't even sure if the MT-G2 could even fit into such a small space, so I sanded down the star until its essentially just the LED remaining, in the background is a comparison between a 16mm XHP-50 and a 18mm triple nichia 219a
Next up, sanding of a special reflector, the stock reflector cannot be used due to design and the wires will get pressed against the bottom, leaving a gap, for reference the reflector I used to make the MT-G2 reflector was taken from a Brass 18650 (its currently using a TIR optic, hence the spare reflector, its design allows it to be sanded down to fit and it will sit flush against the LED with space for the wires)
The next headache (and probably the most important of all) was to get a driver to run the whole thing, the space under the light was so small, I had to sand and remove 6 chips from a 105c QLITE driver and stack another 3 chips, one on an existing and another 2 via small wires for a grand total of 6 chips (2.2a), there is simply NO MORE SPACE for any additional chips, decided this would be temporary and uneeded, a 12mm FET is on the way
How was I able to power everything? Using 2 x 14250 battery, like these guys here, a 14250 battery is roughly half the size of a 14500, at 300mah each, about the same capacity as a 10440 battery
Last but not least, I didn't really like reverse clicky switches, so I set out to find a way to convert the reverse clicky to a forward clicky. I managed to sand a normal forward clicky switch down to the same diameter as the original reverse clicky, attach a small wire from one of the metal plates inside to the bottom of the switch and soldered a small spring to it, put everything back together, it seems to work fine, however, due to either the design or my switch "retrofit", there were gaps (button can't click) and some shorting of batteries, due to the batteries touching the back of the light against the switch, pushing it backwards, after much experimentation, I put a piece of o-ring and a cut out paper with a hole for the spring at the back of the light, ensuring the battery does not touch the metal surface
And finally.. the completed light, the amount of light it produces for its size is unbelievable, it is even brighter then my triple osram, its a nearly full flood beam with a very large hotspot, which is perfect for lighting up the whole area, guestimate lumens would be about 800-1000-ish lumens on high (1500+ when 12mm 6v guppydrv FET driver comes in)
Stock clip has been replaced by a (mcgizmo?) ti clip
Light now joins the "sunbeam" family, a Download Pocket Rocket Ti (2 x 18350, 18x7135 guppydrv, 3000 lumen XHP-50) "Sunbeam" and a Sunwayman V10R Ti (1 X 16340, guppydrv 8x7135 Triple Osram 4000K 92cri) "Mini Sunbeam"
Thanks for reading!!
Last edited:
