Dead flashlight, reusable?

I have a formerly trusty Nitecore Extreme Infinity. Dropped it to the floor and now I only see the briefest flicker when I watch the diod and turn it on. Then it's dead.

Inexperienced question 1: Is it possible to repair these kind of flashlights? It might be possible to take it apart, but I can't see how. I mailed a question to Nitecore, but they haven't answered me. Or should I just toss it in the trash?

Inexperienced question 2: The batteries are still ok, AW ICR123, 750 mAh. I have ordered two new flashlights, a Nitecore P12 and a Nitecore MT10C. Would you say that these batteries can be used in one of those flashlights? MT10C takes either CR123 or IMR18350 and P12 takes 2 x CR123 or 18650. I know that there is a difference but I don't know which. Would I harm the flashlights with the AW batteries?

First of all don't throw it in the trash! The flashlight body can be reused and it's likely that just a connection popped loose when it fell. This can usually be fixed by soldering but if you don't know how you might be able to sell it to someone who can fix it or is willing to buy one for parts. I have the MT10C and love it, the IMR and r123 work excellently in it. It will be brighter with IMR 18350 batteries.

Ok, I won't. Soldering is no problem, but how do I open the head to access the electronics? Is it even possible?

I got my MT10C today and I agree, terrific flashlight. Almost not sorry the Extreme Infinity broke... Expecting the P12 in a few days.

But my question remains: Can I use my AW ICR123 batteries in MT10C or P12? Or in the Nitecore i2 charger, for that matter?

Those batteries will work fine in the MT10C, I'm not sure about the P12 maybe someone else can comment on that one. They'll work great in the Nitecore charger as well, it can charge all different chemistries of lithium ion like ICR, IMR, and regular lithium.

To open up the head I believe you access it from the bottom. I've seen a few videos on YouTube so you might want to give that a try, when I get back from work I'll see if I can find a tutorial or video for you on it.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. I found a video on YouTube where someone shows you how to open the head of a Nitecore, but unfortunately it doesn't resemble the Extreme mechanism at all. Oh well, I have my new toys to play with.

You can sell them cheap for members for parts, no? Many members here knows how to modify lights.

If you're not able to fix it or get it apart I would recommend selling it for parts here on the forum, then use the money towards a new light It's amazing how much light the MT10C puts out and if you want a great EDC light check out the Zebralight SC62w, a little expensive but definitely worth the investment. Same size almost as the MT10C but thinner and lasts much longer at the turbo settings. I have both it and the MT10c and love them both.

Am surprised Nitecore did not reply to your email. Just try again. Such a waste to not try to fix it. Good luck.

I will follow all of your advice. Thanks guys.

Once you crack it open, there's a few things to check. I'm unfamiliar with this specific model, so I will speak in generalities.

1. Switch bypass. Put a ball of aluminum foil into the tail of the light in place of tailcap (as I said, unfamiliar with your specific model.) The light should light. If not, then you've eliminated the switch.

2. Driver bypass. You can bypass the driver once you get to the led, usually pretty easy in most lights. You do this by putting wires directly to the leads of the LED. You want about 3-3.5 volts, adjustable power supplies can do this. You can also use AAx3 in a series battery holder. Touch the wires, red to red and black to black at the solder joints.

The led should light. If not, you need to "reflow" the solder joints of the led. Perhaps a bad solder joint from the factory failed on the drop.

Okay, say the led lights up. What's next?

3. The driver. Driver circuits are often round and about the size of a coin, give or take. Maybe the driver popped loose from the pill as most of them are simply pressed in. In super high drain lights, solder can liquify and cause real problems if dropped while hot. I doubt that this is the culprit as this can only happen to REALLY high draw lights.

Another driver of the same size can be sourced and the replacement is fairly simple provided you can get access to these parts.

Check and make sure all the springs are there and in the right place. One time, I had a spring get stuck down in a tailcap making me think the switch was bad. Pulling the spring up into proper position fixed the light.

Worth a shot. It only costs time.

Ok, I found the following thread, unfortunately the most interesting picture for me is not available any more.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...NiteCore-Extreme-Infinity-not-that-waterproof

It appears I should unscrew the bezel. I tried, using two pairs of pliers and a wet rag, but I only managed to scratch it.

Here is my light, could anyone confirm that the bezel is supposed be unscrewed at the arrow?

That looks like the right space to unscrew. Everything above the knurling should be the bezel.

That said, I've never tried disassembling a Nitecore. They might use threadlocker making it VERY hard to unscrew.

Can you post a pic of the inside of the head? I believe it is accessed under the head where the circuit board is. If you could get a closeup that would really help.

snowlover91 said:

Can you post a pic of the inside of the head? I believe it is accessed under the head where the circuit board is. If you could get a closeup that would really help.

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If you follow the link to the thread I mentioned you can see a very clear image of the inside. Unfortunately that is not the way to enter the inside of the head. In that thread it is stated that you have to unscrew the bezel.

I guess I will have to try to use even more force, at the risk of scratching or breaking the head. It seemed to be easy for the op in the other thread, but perhaps it is like Fireclaw says, that the threads are locked.

If anyone has experience of disassembling this light I would be grateful for a tip.

if you know how to work with machines and cut metals, they can be some kinda of cool Aluminum or Stainless Steel rings.

No light in space said:

If you follow the link to the thread I mentioned you can see a very clear image of the inside. Unfortunately that is not the way to enter the inside of the head. In that thread it is stated that you have to unscrew the bezel.

I guess I will have to try to use even more force, at the risk of scratching or breaking the head. It seemed to be easy for the op in the other thread, but perhaps it is like Fireclaw says, that the threads are locked.

If anyone has experience of disassembling this light I would be grateful for a tip.

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If you're real brave and a little adventurous and have a friend with a bench vise in his shop I'd try putting it in the vise with something like a soft cloth or maybe even a couple of pieces of wood to prevent scratching and damage and then once you have it locked down use a pair of vise grips also with some cloth or other material to prevent damage and try breaking the seal and separating the head. If there's thread locker on it that should break it loose. Beyond that I have no suggestions.

As mentioned above I would try locking it into a vise with something soft or wood to try to unscrew it. Nitecore typically uses a form of loctite on many of their lights so this is probably what you're trying to break free. Good luck getting it unscrewed hopefully you can and it should be an easy fix I'm thinking one of the wires simply popped loose.

They told me that some brands use a reverse-threaded (that attention to the direction in which you try to open the torch - it could be the opposite)

Fireclaw18 said:

That looks like the right space to unscrew. Everything above the knurling should be the bezel.

That said, I've never tried disassembling a Nitecore. They might use threadlocker making it VERY hard to unscrew.

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Heat makes breaking thread locker easier. A hot air gun or even a super hot hair dryer.

Too bad it's not working, I've used heat from light itself in turbo 😕