Newbie - Repairing RGB Floods

tommy_vercetti · Sep 20, 2015

Hi all,

I have 3 50W RGB Flood lights I'd like to repair. I was looking on Ebay and I can buy a new diode and driver for $23. http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-50W-COB...-controller-/262043956084?hash=item3d03097374

But I thought maybe I could do it for less $$$. I don't care about the remote or adjusting the color/brightness. I just use these floodlights at full brightness with all three colors (in other words the "white" color setting with full brightness.) I plan to add more, so fixing these cheaply is a premium. I prefer the color of the RGB's at full "white" brightness over the cool white or warm white colored lamps. I use them above my fish tanks (firmly installed into strong canopies.)

2 of the lamps I am trying to repair seem to have good diodes. Therefore I am guessing the driver is bad. When I plug them in they flash brightly and then go out. One of them will actually put out light for a few minutes before going out.

The 3rd lamp has a bad diode, I suspect. When plugged in it flashes red, and the rest of the diode looks slightly charred.

These are Loftek lamps I bought on Amazon. The metal housings are in perfect condition, and are standard in size. Loftek lamps include a standard 110v American plug.

Can you use any 50W LED driver on an RGB diode if you don't want to control the color/brightness? Do any of you recommend a good replacement driver? How about a replacement RGB 50W diode?

Thanks,
S

DIWdiver · Sep 21, 2015

First off, it sounds like your diagnosis is probably accurate.

But I don't think that if you buy some random RGB LED driven by some random driver, that you'll reliably get the nice color that you like. It's possible that either you stumbled on one you like, or that Loftek tweaked the driver channels a bit so that "full on" gives a nice color. If buying something other than what you are familiar with, you may need to adjust the RGB levels to get the results you like.

It's quite possible that any random 50W diode and 50W driver will be compatible, but by no means guaranteed. I would definitely either buy them as a set (like you linked), or check the voltage/current specs of the LED against those of the driver.

I'm guessing you run these a lot, so rather than buying RGB LEDs and drivers to get white, I'd suggest you find the color temperature and CRI that you like, and buy name-brand white LEDs that meet those specs. Then buy some good drivers and expect everything to last many years, instead of buying cheap crap and repairing or replacing it every year or two. You'll spend less money in the long run, and not have to fuss with them as much.

Meanwell is a pretty well-known name in off-line drivers, and available from respected distributors.

If you follow my advice, you'll spend more than $23 per lamp. But you'll spend less than $23 per lamp per year.

tommy_vercetti · Sep 26, 2015

Thank you for the input

DIWdiver said:
First off, it sounds like your diagnosis is probably accurate.

But I don't think that if you buy some random RGB LED driven by some random driver, that you'll reliably get the nice color that you like. It's possible that either you stumbled on one you like, or that Loftek tweaked the driver channels a bit so that "full on" gives a nice color. If buying something other than what you are familiar with, you may need to adjust the RGB levels to get the results you like.

It's quite possible that any random 50W diode and 50W driver will be compatible, but by no means guaranteed. I would definitely either buy them as a set (like you linked), or check the voltage/current specs of the LED against those of the driver.

I'm guessing you run these a lot, so rather than buying RGB LEDs and drivers to get white, I'd suggest you find the color temperature and CRI that you like, and buy name-brand white LEDs that meet those specs. Then buy some good drivers and expect everything to last many years, instead of buying cheap crap and repairing or replacing it every year or two. You'll spend less money in the long run, and not have to fuss with them as much.

Meanwell is a pretty well-known name in off-line drivers, and available from respected distributors.

If you follow my advice, you'll spend more than $23 per lamp. But you'll spend less than $23 per lamp per year.

m.pille.led · Sep 27, 2015

Hi,
I`m not shure if I understood you right, but if you only use them as a white emiter (all 3 RGB`s on full power) always on full power , then why not modify to a simple white led?

For exemple something like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...Supply-/321705995624?var=&hash=item4ae72bed68
if you look around you might find even cheaper....

Like this the fix is cheaper and does the same

billondrums · Sep 28, 2015

Open up the driver and look for a burnt out capacitor. That is usually the problem. If I need to tell you to unplug the unit first then don't do it. You should also give it a good wait before you open it up. If the capacitor isn't the problem then you could get zapped by it until it drains off. Replace the burnt out capacitor and it should work.

Here's a thought. The units you purchased may not have lasted very long which indicates that the QC at that plant was dismal. You could end up fixing it cheaply and then in a month or two have to do something else. You pay a premium for LED lights and the expectation is you will not have to replace them for at least a dozen years. Don't shop for the cheapest LED. Shop for quality and it may last 50 years. Meanwell are excellent drivers. Bridgestone light engines are excellent. If a product uses these elements then they probably do other things right. It is a complex system that manages heat, solder points, gold wire, material expansion due to heat, conductive adhesive that has good tolerance for expansion. Underdriving an efficient LED chip is a great way to extend the life of the system. It minimizes failure risks very well and only costs a few dollars more. Buy the right product and you may never have to buy it again.

SemiMan · Sep 29, 2015

billondrums said:
Open up the driver and look for a burnt out capacitor. That is usually the problem. If I need to tell you to unplug the unit first then don't do it. You should also give it a good wait before you open it up. If the capacitor isn't the problem then you could get zapped by it until it drains off. Replace the burnt out capacitor and it should work.

Here's a thought. The units you purchased may not have lasted very long which indicates that the QC at that plant was dismal. You could end up fixing it cheaply and then in a month or two have to do something else. You pay a premium for LED lights and the expectation is you will not have to replace them for at least a dozen years. Don't shop for the cheapest LED. Shop for quality and it may last 50 years. Meanwell are excellent drivers. Bridgestone light engines are excellent. If a product uses these elements then they probably do other things right. It is a complex system that manages heat, solder points, gold wire, material expansion due to heat, conductive adhesive that has good tolerance for expansion. Underdriving an efficient LED chip is a great way to extend the life of the system. It minimizes failure risks very well and only costs a few dollars more. Buy the right product and you may never have to buy it again.

Bridgelux not Bridgestone.

tommy_vercetti · Nov 15, 2015

m.pille.led said:
Hi,
I`m not shure if I understood you right, but if you only use them as a white emiter (all 3 RGB`s on full power) always on full power , then why not modify to a simple white led?

For exemple something like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...Supply-/321705995624?var=&hash=item4ae72bed68
if you look around you might find even cheaper....

Like this the fix is cheaper and does the same

Thanks, but I don't like the color of the "cool white 6000-6500K." I have one of those lights and it looks too yellow. The warm white would be even more yellow.

I appreciate the responses!

S

tommy_vercetti · Nov 16, 2015

How about this driver/chip combo? Could I put this in my existing lamp and use the existing 120V AC cord?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161038899771?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thanks,
S

DIWdiver · Nov 16, 2015

I thought you wanted white? That's blue.

tommy_vercetti · Nov 16, 2015

Well, it is a 10000k blue. I just don't like the "cool white" color that are closer to 5000k. I'd like to try the one I linked to; I think it would look good on my fishtanks. And it has the meanwell driver...

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