New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

[GarageBoy]

/With the current HIVE - if I understand, PWM is only used on the lowest few levels, and the others are constant current? Or is the PWM just so fast, it's not noticeable?

[JWRitchie76]

Hello,
Can someone explain to me in Layman's term how to simply turn off the mode memory function in my Haiku? Thanks!

[archimedes]

Hello,
Can someone explain to me in Layman's term how to simply turn off the mode memory function in my Haiku? Thanks!

It is a pretty long process overall, not really complicated, but detailed. Where are you getting stuck ?

Probably obvious, but to start ...

• your driver is the HiVe ?

• the jumper is soldered closed ?

• you can enter programming mode ok ?

• you have a copy of the flowsheet available as a guide ?

[JWRitchie76]

It is a pretty long process overall, not really complicated, but detailed. Where are you getting stuck ?

Probably obvious, but to start ...

• your driver is the HiVe ?

• the jumper is soldered closed ?

• you can enter programming mode ok ?

• you have a copy of the flowsheet available as a guide ?

Yes I have the newer hive driver. I have not attempted to do any programming yet. I am aware that the "jumper" needs to be shorted. Been trying to figure out what all the mumbo jumbo is in the 9 page manual? I mean seriously, what does the word "volatile" have to do with mode memory? So yea, I'm just to the point where I'm trying to make heads or tails of what the manual is actually saying and trying to decipher the ridiculous flow chart that looks like it was developed by someone at USPS. Sorry it's just a little annoying is all with the goofy terms and wording.

[archimedes]

The manual uses the term "persistent" to mean mode memory, and "volatile" to mean no mode memory.

I believe those terms may derive from computer jargon.

[archimedes]

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe.

I don't know if anyone has done a video guide on this programming, but actually seeing the process would make it far easier to understand than reading how to accomplish this.

[McGizmo]

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe.

.....

Can you provide the post number as page size and number seems to be a function of browser and display size. Thanks!!

[archimedes]

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe....

Every detail included in that drawing is important, and worth studying in detail.

Can you provide the post number as page size and number seems to be a function of browser and display size. Thanks!!

I meant from the PDF ...

[McGizmo]

Oops! Makes sense!! Thanks.

[archimedes]

Oops! Makes sense!! Thanks.

Sure, cheers !

Enjoyable to have the ability to set these up exactly to preference

[Jfowler]

The guides and flow charts are a bit tricky. I had to translate for myself - if we are wired the same, you may find this helpful...

First, bridge the little gap. I have 4 HIVE drivers; 2 are soldered, 2 used the graphite pencil trick. The pencil works surprisingly well.

Second, the toggle description is weird, because the counts given (2 long, 4 short, 2 long) are actually the off periods. Again, I couldn’t wrap around that. I had to actually write it down so that I could re-do the count in terms of presses. You never have to latch the clicky switch to a true “on” - I’ll use the term “tap” as a stand in for momentary on. And it is really just a tap; just press long enough to make the light flash. IMO, the better description for the toggle sequence (from off) would be:
tap, pause, tap, pause, tap,tap,tap,tap,tap , pause, tap, pause, tap+hold
The pauses are long enough that the light level never changes. Those rapid taps in the middle are fast enough to make the light level change.
If you count the pauses and the spaces between the rapid taps in the middle, you will see the 2 long, 4 short, 2 long sequence.
If you got it right, the last hold will start a programming sequence. You will see a disco flash, 1 set of blinks, then a second set of blinks, then another disco flash, then a constant medium brightness, then a constant low brightness. Just hold the clicky down and let the cycle complete. Once the cycle is complete, you can just hit the clicky with a bunch of taps (at least 6) to get out of programming. I suggest getting really good at the toggle before screwing around with the levels in programming. It will save you frustration.

Can you comfortably enter programming?

[JWRitchie76]

Thanks for the help guys. The programming for the HIVE just isn't for me unfortunately and the mode memory was terribly annoying so I sold the light and picked up a 3.4 volt 4000k tint 1X123 MDC from Malkoff.

[archimedes]

Thanks for the help guys. The programming for the HIVE just isn't for me unfortunately and the mode memory was terribly annoying so I sold the light and picked up a 3.4 volt 4000k tint 1X123 MDC from Malkoff.

Single output version ?

[JWRitchie76]

Single output version ?

No sir. 3 mode version. L-M-H

[archimedes]

No sir. 3 mode version. L-M-H

The UI on those is a bit different than most, glad it is working out for you.