Surefires, Legos , and Questions??

DeadEyeIce

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I have read CPF for a long time but never joined or posted until today. So HI YALL!!

My stepdad asked me to try to find and purchase more of the surefire light he currently has, he didn't know the model number and is out of town. I believe I have tracked it down to being a G2ZX. In the process of researching I discovered the P2x Fury series. I fell in love with features of several different models but, could not get what I wanted ready to go out of the box.

The idea hit me why not Frankenstein or Lego together what I wanted from the available models, sure I would wind up with one ideal model and 1 or 2 that though not ideal would be good to leave in the jeep for emergency, or the bedside table. Forgive me if I use wrong terminology in some parts but in fairly new to moding. I wouldn't consider myself a flashlight snob or flashaholic, well yet at least. I do appreciate quality lights and bright lights as well.

So Here is where I am at. I like the body (Host?) of the P2ZX/G2ZX models, but want at least a dual mode light. I like the intellibeam idea, but I would prefer it had 3 modes (intellibeam,high,low) and I understand that it has gotten several bad reviews and is not well liked by the members that have tried one. I think it will work for my purpose. So I got the thought Frankenstein/Lego together the light you want for EDC and use the leftovers to make a backup.

So here come the plans and questions I understand that the newer surefire lights the head is threaded on the the host, but is locked on by some sort of glue or thread locker. I assume this can be defeated by a bit of heat and elbow grease, is that correct? Is so I would like to put the intellibeam head on either a G2ZX or P2ZX host. Will the P2x head work well on the nitrilon host of the G2ZX or does it need the aluminum host as a heatsink? I assume all of the circuitry of the intellibeam function is housed in the haed and on the driver board. So what I would end up with on this light is a P2ZX/G2ZX host sandwitched between a P2X intellibeam haed and tailcap switch.

On the spare parts light I would switch out the twist switch for a tail cap with a click style switch, either a surefire or maybe a Mcclicky? the left over host from the P2X IB and the single mode head from the G2ZX/P2ZX. Which starts round 2 of the questions. I read a post explaining how to cut a trace on the driver board to disable the low function on a dual mode model. Is this the same way surefire disables the low on the Tactical/Defender/Combat models, by breaking a trace, or is the circuitry completely left out of the driver board? If it is just a broken trace I would like to bridge the break with solder and reenable (sp?) the dual mode function of the spare parts light.

Thanks in advance for all of the info and advice.

Ice
 

DeadEyeIce

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Thanks for the info, it's not exactly what I'm looking for on this build but... might be for the next. Also in the user programable firmware, how do you go about programming it? What kind of hardware/interface?
 

cland72

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Thanks for the info, it's not exactly what I'm looking for on this build but... might be for the next. Also in the user programable firmware, how do you go about programming it? What kind of hardware/interface?

I have no idea, most of that is beyond my level of understanding at this time. Tana (the guy who started that thread) would be a good person to ask.
 

DeadEyeIce

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That I will do. Seems like what I would want to do as I'm not sure the 15lm low will be enough for me.
 

m4a1usr

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I have read CPF for a long time but never joined or posted until today. So HI YALL!!

So I got the thought Frankenstein/Lego together the light you want for EDC and use the leftovers to make a backup.That's the spirit! It's natural, let it flow.

So here come the plans and questions I understand that the newer surefire lights the head is threaded on the the host, but is locked on by some sort of glue or thread locker. I assume this can be defeated by a bit of heat and elbow grease, is that correct? Basically yes. Some strap wrenches would be better than elbow grease but a firm hand and some grip assistance will do the job


Will the P2x head work well on the nitrolon host of the G2ZX or does it need the aluminum host as a heatsink? It will work but an all aluminum host is always the best choice

I assume all of the circuitry of the intellibeam function is housed in the head and on the driver board. So what I would end up with on this light is a P2ZX/G2ZX host sandwitched between a P2X intellibeam haed and tailcap switch. Yep.

On the spare parts light I would switch out the twist switch for a tail cap with a click style switch, either a surefire or maybe a Mcclicky? If you have a Z41 or similar type TC just get the McClicky kit for illumination supply providing you are capable of removing the TC "guts".



the left over host from the P2X IB and the single mode head from the G2ZX/P2ZX. Which starts round 2 of the questions. I read a post explaining how to cut a trace on the driver board to disable the low function on a dual mode model. Is this the same way surefire disables the low on the Tactical/Defender/Combat models, by breaking a trace, or is the circuitry completely left out of the driver board? Yes. The trace is cut by Surefire to make it a single high mode.



If it is just a broken trace I would like to bridge the break with solder and reenable (sp?) the dual mode function of the spare parts light. By all means do it. A small piece of wire can fill the gap and return the dual mode function.
Ice
 
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DeadEyeIce

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Thank you that was what I was guessing, but better to know what you are going Into rather than going in blind!
 

bykfixer

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Try the low for a few nights before cutting it loose.

In darkness it's surprisingly useful. I was going to mod one to hi only...but found it's my favorite nightstand light now.
 

DeadEyeIce

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I had no intention of removing the low function, the combat model has it disabled from three factory. I was going to reenable it. Thank you for the advice and concern.
 

Str8stroke

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I have no idea, most of that is beyond my level of understanding at this time. Tana (the guy who started that thread) would be a good person to ask.

Just so you guys know the programming is super simple. Its just a matter of a few well timed clicks and half clicks. It takes a few practices, but once you get it, It is so nice. DrJones has to be one of my favorite Programming UI's. I have about two dozen lights with DRJones and love them.

Here is link that explains it all.

http://drjones.nerdcamp.net
 

DeadEyeIce

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Very Interesting and informative. I may go that route when I start playing with drivers.
 

DeadEyeIce

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m4a1usr
Re: Surefires, Legos , and Questions??

quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by DeadEyeIce


the left over host from the P2X IB and the single mode head from the G2ZX/P2ZX. Which starts round 2 of the questions. I read a post explaining how to cut a trace on the driver board to disable the low function on a dual mode model. Is this the same way surefire disables the low on the Tactical/Defender/Combat models, by breaking a trace, or is the circuitry completely left out of the driver board? Yes. The trace is cut by Surefire to make it a single high mode.



If it is just a broken trace I would like to bridge the break with solder and reenable (sp?) the dual mode function of the spare parts light. By all means do it. A small piece of wire can fill the gap and return the dual mode function.
Ice




Just Picked up the P2X Defender and tried re building the trace with a Circuit writer pen (Used for repairing broken traces etc in electronics) I still don't seem to have a low mode. Does the internal guts of the switch play any part in selecting mode, no number of taps or clicks seems to do anything but high 500 lm mode.

Am I missing something or is there actually a difference in the electronics in the head other than the broken trace?

Ice

Well after a bit longer it did start working so the trace is the only difference!!
 
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