New to the forum and have questions...

Hello there folks, I'm new here and a self admitted gear junkie. I appreciate my flashlights from my law enforcement and instructor days and they're a part of my EDC kit. I have no experience with mods and I'm not very technical either. So here's my question:

Two of my lights are an Insight HX120 and an HX120R. They've been discontinued for problems that I've never had. My problem is they're the dimmest lights I have and I'd like to know if there are any mods to make them brighter? I like the lights but want better output.

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance!

TT

Gut or bypass driver, go direct drive with single lion rechargeable? You'll have output diminish almost immediately after first turn-on. You might also want to add a limit resistor, DD blaster lights can get wickedly hot in seconds or minutes. Thermal mass and thermal path now become issues.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?284177-Direct-Drive

Direct drive can be your best friend if looking for maximum output with fresh charge. If you wanted the light to stay relatively the same over runtime, then you don't want it.

The brightest lights are rarely stock.

More_vampires, I appreciate the explanation, BUT the technical jargon is lost in me. I'm the village idiot for tech stuff.

I'm looking for upgrades for the Insight HX120 and HX200 that will allow them to compete with today's far brighter lights, yet still have a decent run/use time. What parts? Where to get them? Etc.

I'd like to hit the 350-500 lumen mark with the HX 120.

TacTeacher said:

More_vampires, I appreciate the explanation, BUT the technical jargon is lost in me. I'm the village idiot for tech stuff.

I'm looking for upgrades for the Insight HX120 and HX200 that will allow them to compete with today's far brighter lights, yet still have a decent run/use time. What parts? Where to get them? Etc.

I'd like to hit the 350-500 lumen mark with the HX 120.

Click to expand...

I think that what Vamp was saying/asking, was whether you were handy with electrical components and soldering? Since you answered that you're not, you will probably have to find somebody here who will gut them for you and try and make them brighter, but frankly, with the way modern light are now, you're probably best off buying something new and just relegating those two lights to spare, truck, or toolbox duty in the 'back-up' role.

There's Vinh who's great at modding lights, so you might try here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?371949-V54-Light-List

FritzHID in this thread was able to fix a guy's light and seems to know his way around modding, so try contacting him:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?404931-LED-fell-off-and-it-was-CPF-ed-back-on

There are lights I could recommend, but you seem determined to mod the lights you have, in lieu of replacing them with more modern lights.

Chris

Sorry I came on so strong. I agree with Chris, you'd likely be money ahead to go ahead and get a current production light and save those for modding after the desire strikes you.

Getting a light modded might not be all that cheap, depending on what you do and how far you go. Extreme output mods give terrible runtimes.

Oh yeah, never throw a light away. You'll never know when you will catch the sickness of wanting to mod lights and it's nice to have a "junk box" of obsolete stuff. This way, you won't cry so much if you mess up and wreck it.

It's like how Vinh fried the driver on a $100+ brand new light the other day. Even the big boys slip up sometimes.

Hello TacTeacher and welcome. Modding the lights you mention will require the use of rechargeable cells and abandoning the use of CR123 primary cells due to the amp draw needed to achieve 500+ lumens. The first component is the MCPCB. This is the metal disc that the LED emitter is attached to. These are available in aluminum or copper and in different diameters, copper is the superior material due to thermal properties. You will need to remove the pill assembly that the driver and LED emitter are in. The driver is normally located at the rear side of the pill and normally has a + spring or contact plate which contacts the battery positive. You will also need to measure the diameter of the driver as these are available in different sizes. Once you have established the size of the MCPCB and driver, you can order an emitter already reflow soldered on a copper noctigen MCPCB and driver of the correct diameter. You will have to remove original driver and solder in the perimeter of the new driver to the pill, then attach the +/- wires from driver to MCPCB. You will also need thermal paste to use under the MCPCB for heat transfer from LED to the host and teflon wire for possible needed additional wire. You may also have to upgrade the switch depending on robustness of the original switch. Mountain Electronics and Ilumn have the items you need. If you are patient and want to save some coin, you could order from overseas; Fastech, Kaidomain, Deal Extreme, International Outdoor Store and Cutter Electronics.
Good Luck!

more_vampires said:

Gut or bypass driver, go direct drive with single lion rechargeable? You'll have output diminish almost immediately after first turn-on. You might also want to add a limit resistor, DD blaster lights can get wickedly hot in seconds or minutes. Thermal mass and thermal path now become issues.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?284177-Direct-Drive

Direct drive can be your best friend if looking for maximum output with fresh charge. If you wanted the light to stay relatively the same over runtime, then you don't want it.

The brightest lights are rarely stock.

Click to expand...

why on earth would you respond to the OP with something you know he wouldn't understand?

I appreciate the info gentlemen!

The main reason I want to keep using my Insight light is the size. That and $250 for another light would allow me to see my own demise when my wife kills me.

I've got some food for thought.

LGT said:

why on earth would you respond to the OP with something you know he wouldn't understand?

Click to expand...

Sometimes in our zeal to try and help somebody out, we gloss over a salient point, like 'I'm the village idiot when it comes to tech stuff' and go straight to our reply.

I've been guilty of it in the past.

Chris

Hi, TacTeacher!:welcome:

Like you, am relatively new to high-tech flashlights. One of the surprises for me was to learn that the technology is advancing in leaps and bounds, sort of like how computers did in the 1990s.

The Insight HX120 is now somewhat dated. That's no big deal. So are most other flashlights that go back to 2009. I think the best way to fix it is to replace it.

Are you still interested in a tactical light, or would a non-tactical light be okay? Do you want something that uses CR123A batteries, or are you open to rechargeable Li-ion batteries such as the 18650?

If a non-tactical light meets your needs, take a look at the Olight S1 Baton. It's a 1xCR123A model with four modes: 0.5, 8, 80, and 500 lumens. It's a new flashlight that has been something of a hit. I have seen group buys and other discounts that have yielded very reasonable prices.

I found a couple of reviews of the S1. The first is a review by JohnnyMac. The second is a review by thburns.

I do not own the S1.

Perhaps there are others here who can recommend good tactical lights that run on 1xCR123A.

Good luck with your search!

The S10 is a great suggestion. I was going to say S10R Baton II. It's got the recharging dock, 2 batteries, 500lm, that beautiful blue bezel, and it's about $65.

NP

It is possible that just an emitter swap will increase the output of your lights 35-40%, but beyond that you'll need to have the driver changed too.
Regarding other possible lights, you may already know that there are quality manufacturers that produce single CR123 based lights.
Olight, nitecore, Eagletac, Fenix, come to mind.
The Sunwayman V11R ,may have been updated since this review, but with it's variable output, it may match some of what you like about your HX120