NEW Product Announcement - Nitecore HC30 1000 Lumen LED Headlamp

sidecross said:

I hope people who wear 1000 lumen headlamps work alone. :thumbsup:

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markr6 said:

Great price. If this were available in a neutral white, I bet that would steal a fair amount of Zebralight sales!

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selfbuilt said:

Yes, I find it a source of concern to see PTC features kick-in on CR123A cells. I have certainly seen a lot of this over the years in testing (especially common on 4xCR123A lights). Examining the cells, you can sometimes see clear evidence of damage in the wrappers around the PTC. Invariably, the worse-affected cell is the one closest to the head (where most of the heat is concentrated).

It's fundamentally a problem of how heavily-driven lights are now on max, in general (i.e., not specific to Nitecore - or Olight, or Thunite, etc, etc.). Multi-cell CR123A setups often don't seem suitable for sustained runtimes at max levels - even in lights with thermal regulation (which is designed to protect the circuit, not the battery). But of course, that's based again on made-in-the-USA CR123A calibration levels for PTCs. With made-in-China cells, you would probably almost never see that runtime pattern.

Ultimately, I would encourage people to use care when considering multi-cell CR123A use on any highly-driven light.

[Emphasis added.]

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KeepingItLight said:

Here is a question for NitecoreStore.

I have recently learned that many flashlights running on 2xCR123A batteries can pull more amps than the batteries are rated for. CR123A is typically rated for a maximum continuous discharge of 1.5A. At 1000 lumens or more, current draw will usually exceed that.

In his recent review of the Nitecore MH20, for instance, CPF member selfbuilt reported that excessive current draw caused the PTC on his CR123A batteries to be activated.



The simple solution is for flashlight users to keep output at low and medium settings on flashlights that demand too much from CR123A.

So, what's the story with the Nitecore HC30? Will it draw more than 1.5A from CR123A batteries in turbo mode?

Thanks.

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NitecoreStore said:

At turbo settings, the current draw will be more than 1500mA. However, according to the factory, their ATR (Advanced Temperature Regulation) circuit will automatically adjust the power if the temperature is too high for LED and batteries.

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selfbuilt said:

Multi-cell CR123A setups often don't seem suitable for sustained runtimes at max levels - even in lights with thermal regulation (which is designed to protect the circuit, not the battery).

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KeepingItLight said:

Thanks for checking on this.

In most circumstances, users will probably be fueling their Nitecore HC30 on 18650 rather than CR123A. Additionally, most users do not run headlamps at 1000 lumens, except in short bursts.

Nevertheless, I think it is important to get the word out. On their highest settings, modern LED flashlights and headlamps often pull more amps than CR123A batteries are rated for. Once you know this, it is easy to limit usage of the highest modes.

I do know not where the temperature sensors are located in the HC30 or how they are calibrated. It seems likely, however, that they located near the emitter and driver electronics in the head. That is probably the hottest part of the light. If this is true, they may be slow in responding to an increase in battery temperature. Flashlight reviewer selfbuilt made this point in his discussion of the Nitecore MH20.



Thanks again, for getting an answer to my question.

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KeepingItLight said:

Output starts out flat, but then, as battery voltage drops at the end of a run,...QUOTE]

That's an excellent choice for a headlamp.
Going from bright to dim while walking is much better than going from bright to dark. It gives you time to switch to a backup light.
This is true even on a paved road. It is a little known fact that on a dark night Bott's Dots will move into your path and trip you.

It is a little known fact because I just made it up, The moving part, not the tripping and falling part.

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