Eagletac G25C2 still misbehaving after thorough cleaning. Help required!

Hi folks. I find myself using my G25C2 less and less because of the misbehaving twisty head. I've cleaned the contacts head and tail with DeoxIT gold, and tried a couple of different 18650 cells. It behaves the same with both cells:

Symptoms: Normally it goes direct from least bright mode to turbo mode, missing the two intermediate brightness modes. This is really annoying as I rarely want it on either full bright or minimum - normally I want something in between.

Sometimes it flickers off between modes. And then, sometimes, for no apparent reason, it behaves normally. I'm aware of the different tactial and AUX modes as specified here http://eagletac.com/html/g25c2/index.html, but sometimes the light ends up flashing or strobing in a way not documented in the UI.

So, what am I doing wrong? How does the mode selector work? Is it a pressure thing? Where should I focus my efforts? Or is it just an unreliable system? My friend has a light with a single switch that you can scroll through different modes with. Perhaps solid state is better than the unrealiable twisty action from which I'm suffering.

Anyone else have problems like this? I can post a video demo if required. I'm off to the jungle next week so could do with sorting this before I leave! Thanks, have a good day.

There is a rotating ring just above where the clip would be if being used and it must be fully seated toward the head; this is the only problem I have ever had with my G25C2.

Thanks sidecross. Yes, I know the one you mean - it can be used to lock the tailcap switch from engaging. Mine is fully towards the head as you suggest, so the power supply is not the issue here. Rather it's something to do with the mode selector switching movement. The problem is that it can be sporadic, and I'm worried that if I send it back (I bought it back in Jan 2012) then it'll magically start behaving again!

So does anyone know how the twist mechanism works?

How is it possible for me to go from turbo mode to lowest mode simply by twisting the head the tiniest fraction? Ie if I start on turbo, with the head to the left most point, and turn on the light, it only takes about half a degree of rotation to engage lo mode, and then more twisting just remains in lo mode.

What is the specific part that responds to the twists? Is if the two little contacts on either side of the large one in the middle? If so, how can cleaning the threads and Orings (which I've done, many times) affect its sensitivity? I just don't get why my light is being so bad. Thanks

Bit of a long shot here as I don't have a any Eagletac lights... Are the two pins spring loaded? And where they contact on the body is there any wear on the aluminium? I'm wondering if you could file the body down just a little so the pins seated a little more firmly.

jt7747 said:

So does anyone know how the twist mechanism works?............How is it possible for me to go from turbo mode to lowest mode simply by twisting the head the tiniest fraction?

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Sounds like it might be a connection problem somewhere. Typical twisty interfaces (on/off/on) for changing modes are such that by twisting the head to loosen, you are breaking the current from the battery to the driver circuit (the LED goes off). There is also a capacitor that holds charge up that allows the driver to be powered for a very short time so as to know that it needs to advance to the next level once the head is tightened again within a certain time frame...........otherwise it just treats it as off and then when you turn it back on (if it has memory) goes to the last used mode. And so with one of those types of lights, if it were skipping modes, would be caused by multiple on and offs (like switch bounce) as the head is loosened.

With the EagleTac and their two spring loaded contacts my guess is that its related to those or connection problems between head and body. I don't have an EagleTac but I believe those are spring loaded contacts. You will want to make sure they go up and down without binding and that the spring action does work. Also clean the area (threads and all) with q-tip and rubbing alcohol.......specifically the surface of where the light body makes contact with the head. Make sure its all smooth and no burrs. I noticed that there is no annodization on the threads so it is an electrical path. Once you get it working then re-lube the O-ring. Lube will be OK on the threads near the O-ring, but I'd keep it off of the end where it meets contact with the head........at least until you can figure out what's going on.

I'm just making a guess at it. Hope you get it working.

Thank you for the helpful replies. Yes, the two small pins are spring loaded and appear to go up and down as they should. It's so incredibly frustrating to have a light so erratic. I have focused on cleaning the O rings but still no joy.

Until I understand how the tiniest fraction of a turn can fool the light from going to turbo to lo mode, I don't see how I'm going to get any closer to figuring out this ugly issue. Thanks

I think this is a reason people like Surefire, Elzetta, and other lights like it for they are simple but strong designs that can be easily fixed or repaired. It is the reason I keep most of my Surefire lights in reserve.

I think I now have 10 ET's including 2 G25C2 MkII's. My first G25(full on kit NW T6)version acts up or does not respond to head rotation if I neglect to clean not just the points but the metal ring they contact with Deoxit. Also keep the rest of the contact points clean with rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip. As long as I do those things I do not have any issues. If I neglect any of my twist ET's they will eventually act up.

I have used my first G25 very extensively. Learned to keep everything clean and a couple years later it is still cranking.

CelticCross74 said:

I think I now have 10 ET's including 2 G25C2 MkII's. My first G25(full on kit NW T6)version acts up or does not respond to head rotation if I neglect to clean not just the points but the metal ring they contact with Deoxit. Also keep the rest of the contact points clean with rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip. As long as I do those things I do not have any issues. If I neglect any of my twist ET's they will eventually act up.

I have used my first G25 very extensively. Learned to keep everything clean and a couple years later it is still cranking.

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I have two Eagletac G25C2 also and they have worked well for me; I also keep all contacts clean. The Twist Head arrangement does have this vulnerability.