Continuous issues with 1 AA style lights.

lifenomad

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I just wanted to open a discussion on the single AA battery, tailcap activated LED lights. I own a few of these style lights however, over the past few years I have had the same continuous problems with them, and I wanted to see if others share the same issues with these types of lights.

Currently my two main lights are an Ultrafire 1AA, and a Streamlight Protac EMS 1AA. Both of these lights are great and extremely handy... when they work.

The common problem I face almost each time I grab for one of these lights and flick it on is that the light either will not come on, or will flicker. Almost 99% of the time I need to untighten, and retighten the end caps before I get a solid bright light on the first flick of the tailcap switch. I have cleaned all surfaces, and have tried to keep the O rings well taken care of, but the problems persist in each light.

Is this just a design flaw with 1AA style, screw-on tailcap lights? Can this be permanently resolved?

I am not above sending a letter to Streamlight to explain my problems, but I wonder if I am just expecting too much from these lights.

Thanks for any input or advice.
 

Str8stroke

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May be a easy fix. Typically Dirty threads, or dirty/faulty switch.
Clean threads, on body and cap with alcohol and your wifes toothbrush. :D Then apply small amount of dielectric Grease on threads. This is found at any auto parts store or Walmart. This will solve thread issues. This should be a standard maintenance procedure.

Problem still there? Bypass the switch with a paper clip. If light works fine, this will let you know the switch needs to be cleaned or replaced. Streamlight is good about mailing you a new one out free. They have done that for me a few times.

:welcome:
 

bykfixer

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I have a Klarus that does same. But it fires right up 2nd attempt.
My Coast HP1 flickers right often.

Have you tried putting in a new cell?

My guess is it's a switch issue inherent with small lights. Like the takata air bag, it could be the manufacturers get their switches from the same supplier over there in China. Then install said switch in their proprietary tail cap.

Or it could be like bicycles, inkpens and shoes etc where numerous brands are manufactured in the same building sharing certain components.
 
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jabe1

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Besides a good cleaning, make sure that the switch retaining ring is tight. You can usually do this with needle nosed pliers or sharp tweezers.
other than that, I'd say the problem may be inherent in the Ultrafire brand...
 

lifenomad

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Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I have changed my batteries and it doesn't seem to do much after the lights have been banging around in my pocket in or my bag for a few days/weeks, the first flick of the switch is still a 50/50 crap shoot.

It seems like the tolerance is just too tight in regards to the tailcap being in contact with the body. If the tailcap is on 100% tight, no problem, but if it's even just a hair loosened, issues. It seems like having the contact being made on the threads vs just the top of the tube as it bumps the back of the tail cap would be a better design. This way contact would be made anywhere from 50% - 100% tight, as the spring making contact on the battery would still be in contact throughout.
 

bykfixer

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I just recieved an ems light this evening and darn if it don't have issues straight out of the package.
Not cycling all three, like stuck on medium, to not lighting in momentary but does when it clicks...

It's mooshy so had I not read this thread I'd be thinking I was doing something wrong.

As a rule it seems to work. But I have to momentary it to get it to cycle. And once or twice it did not turn on.

I've probably pressed the on button more times between 6 and 7 tonight than it will be pressed the rest of it's life.

Now frankly I bought it for the 3.6 lumen output for 2am nature calls. Knowing it had rings in the beam and all that. But bottom line is....it should turn on every time you press the on button with a good battery in it.

Edit: Got my mind around always using momentary and very quickly to change settings. Ten Tap quick.

But it did fail to light on me twice....shelf queen it is.
 
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for.shore

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Funny, thought this thread would be about battery crushers, like my old Inova X1
 

Grijon

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All of my single-AA tailcap-activated LED lights are from Fenix: E12, LD09, and LD12; I also have two LD02s, which are single-AAA tailcap-activated LED lights.

In my five examples none of them have ever had any trouble turning on when I press the switch; I don't remember ever noticing any flickering, either.
 
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lifenomad

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Well I feel a touch better knowing that I am not the only one having these issues with the Streamlight at least. Shame for a $40 light...

I have it on good authority that my wife, err um I mean Santa, has a Fenix E05 with my name on it for Christmas. I'll have to see if I have better luck with the Fenix brand.
 

Grijon

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I have it on good authority that my wife, err um I mean Santa, has a Fenix E05 with my name on it for Christmas. I'll have to see if I have better luck with the Fenix brand.

I've been using an E05 for months as a keychain light and it's been flawless, too.

I switched to the E05 from an E05SS. The stainless light simply would not come on or come on erratically and flicker, so I'd clean it and test it, and a few days later it'd be back to being unreliable. I LOVE the E05SS, but it just isn't worth it to me to have to clean it so often.

My wife carries an E99Ti on her keychain, which is in her purse when she's not using it. I've never had to clean her light in a year of use and it works just as reliably as the other (non-E05SS) lights.

Hope this helps!
 

xzel87

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My only single AA light was a Thrunite T10S that's I EDC'ed for about 7-8 months before I accidentally destructively dedomed the emitter :oops:.

Never had any issues with flickering or it not turning on, in fact, it still turned on when the head was almost filled with water (lens oring wasn't seated properly) and stayed that way for a few days (wet inside head) until I realised it and dried it out in a bag o rice.

Perhaps, your problem unfortunately is specifically due to that particular 2 lights that you own?
 

hiuintahs

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..........Perhaps, your problem unfortunately is specifically due to that particular 2 lights that you own?
I came to that conclusion too. I have had lots of single AA lights and never had any issues. Something can go wrong with any brand, however the cheap knock off name to Surefire (XXXXfire) lights is definitely suspicious. As far as Streamlight goes, hopefully that's just an isolated issue. Streamlight will take care of warranty issues. I've talked to the factory direct and they sent me a new light once.
 

Dr. Tweedbucket

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Yeah, simple contact probs.

Make sure you don't get any toothpaste residue on the treads.

The Fenix E12 is a pretty robust single AA light, I've never had a prob with it. The Sunwayman C15A is another really good light for single AA operation and a LOT of light out of a 16340.
 

bykfixer

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Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I have changed my batteries and it doesn't seem to do much after the lights have been banging around in my pocket in or my bag for a few days/weeks, the first flick of the switch is still a 50/50 crap shoot.

It seems like the tolerance is just too tight in regards to the tailcap being in contact with the body. If the tailcap is on 100% tight, no problem, but if it's even just a hair loosened, issues. It seems like having the contact being made on the threads vs just the top of the tube as it bumps the back of the tail cap would be a better design. This way contact would be made anywhere from 50% - 100% tight, as the spring making contact on the battery would still be in contact throughout.

Well I feel a touch better knowing that I am not the only one having these issues with the Streamlight at least. Shame for a $40 light...

I have it on good authority that my wife, err um I mean Santa, has a Fenix E05 with my name on it for Christmas. I'll have to see if I have better luck with the Fenix brand.


I've discovered that Streamlight has a built in lockout feature in many of their lights. When twisted slightly from tight it prevents pocket turn on.

It can be frustrating in situations where quick action is required. So I placed a wrap of pipe thread tape on my EMS light and so far so good.

I cannot say if it's by design or a flaw in Streamlights. Because it's only certain lights, all metal ones and all seemingly designed for use by law enforcement or rescue workers...except the Rayovac 2 AA has the same feature/flaw...if it's a flaw that is.

Microstream, polytacs, protacs, multiops, and stylus lights I own do not have the feature. The clicky TL 2's, clicky Strions and EMS lights do.

The EMS has a non protruding switch so I do not understand, why that one?
 
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ven

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I have had no issues with my T10 light, rear clicky and simple 3 mode UI. Works issue free and makes a nice size edc


Even have an efest 14500 IMR cell in it for some extra juice! works a treat:)

T10 can be had cheap, t10s a little more and the t10t(in pic) a tad more still. Nice feel, relatively light and wears well unlike most ano lights.
 

hyperloop

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ArmyTek Prime A1 pro/non pro ver 3 XP-L, its a great 1xAA/14500 light, comes on with no difficulty whatsover.
 

lifenomad

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Perhaps, your problem unfortunately is specifically due to that particular 2 lights that you own?

This is the conclusion I am beginning to make as well. I was lucky enough to find a quick fix for my XXXfire DealExtreme 1AA light by placing a coil of solder in the head so that the body made better contact when threaded tight. I have been playing with this for over a week now and have had 0 issues with this cheap light since "the fix". So that's a nice little victory.

I did communicate with Streamlight about my EMS issues, and they suggested that I return it immediately for replacement. I am waiting to receive either my fixed light, or a new light from them currently. I am pretty pleased with their Customer Service!

Also, I did receive the Fenix E05 light for Christmas, and I am serously blown away by it. I don't really see a need to carry a larger light again...
 
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