Fixing my Mini Maglite Pro+

frostee8

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
11
Hi all,

I have a Mini Maglite Pro+ that I think is at most two years old now. It hasn't been used much, just sat in a hiking bag for most of its life. I recently dug it out and basically now it doesn't work, does not turn on at all. So far I have changed batteries several times to no avail. I noticed there is some white corrosion on the bottom cap but inside and at the LED end it seems okay. I gave all these contacts a little clean with white vinegar but again, no good. I thought it would be good to get the LED end out to see if anything is off but I can't for the life of me get it out.

Any suggestions? I just really want it to work and these things aren't cheap :(

I live in Australia if that has any bearing.
 

CelticCross74

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Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
4,021
Location
Fairfax Va
white vinegar? Havnt heard that one before. The white corrosion you are seeing is most likely leakage from alkaline batteries in which case killed the light. Another case may be a solder point broke at some point. I must have 8 or 9 mini Mag Pros and Pro Pluses. You should be able to unscrew the head off for a better look. Another possibility is a patina developed over the main contact points and is blocking current. Another suggestion is to buy a spray can of DeOxit Gold. A couple of spritzes with that stuff will clean any kind of patina/corrosion off of anything. If you are an owner of any kind of Mag be it mini or full on 4 D cell having a spray can of DeOxit gold is a must. For example corrosion can and will build up in the switches of my big D cell Mags blocking current flow or limiting it severely. I remove the rubber switch cover and do 3 short sprays down inside the center of the switch. The Corrosion dissolves instantly restoring full current.

So...screw off the head first and closely examine the LED and the wiring. Look closely for cracked or broken solder points. If it checks out okay clean ALL the contact points in the light DeOxit Gold would be the best choice to do it with but if you dont have access to it where you are take a bottle of rubbing alcohol and some Q-Tips, wet one end of a Q-Tip with the rubbing alcohol and wipe over all the contact points.

As for mini Mags they turn on when the threads inside the head make contact with the bare metal section below the threads on the tube. So...clean the threads in the head (the rubbing alcohol and Q-tip method should work fine) and make sure the bare metal section below the threads on the tube are clean. Remember to be looking for any sign of corrosion the whole time. Also unscrew the end cap and get a good look down at the head end of the tube where the batteries make contact with the bottom of driver. It most likely has corrosion on it.

Should you run into any corrosion DeOxit is really the only way to get rid of it I hope you have a store there that sells it.

Another tip-what keeps the LED and driver in place is a single O ring and the bottom of the reflector pressing down against it. Inspect the reflector. Unscrew the bezel and make sure the reflector hasnt somehow gone off angle. Also this all could be due to a loose bezel not holding the reflector down.

Once you have cleaned everything and made sure the reflector is in straight and that the bezel is tight and holding the reflector in place and down upon the driver buy a pair of Energizer Ultimate lithium AA's. Never use alkalines again. The Energizers crank max 1.5 volts per cell right up until they die and they dont leak. It sounds like at some point one of your alkaline batteries leaked and said leakage spread along the tube which is why you had the white corrosion on the bottom of the end cap. Chances are high that the leakage also made it to the contact point on the bottom of the driver.

Id say you have a 50/50 chance of saving the light. Most of the time raw alkaline leaked onto any point of the current path essentially destroys the circuit altogether as raw alkaline breaks down the metal of contact points. Even if you score some De Oxit Gold there is a good chance the alkaline has broken down any conducive metals to where they lose the ability to carry current.

Sucks for you man I know everything is expensive where you are. Here in Virginia I can go to Home Depot and get a new Pro Plus for 25 bucks. Every larger box and hardware store here carries some kind of Mag. Usually last gen D cell LEDs and even the old incandescent Mags. Does Home Depot or Lowes have stores in Australia? Here both HD and lowes also carry mini Mag upgrade parts from LED conversion upgrades to tail clicky switches so you dont have to turn the head to turn it on or off.

Just counted, I have 9 mini Mags all Pros and Pro pluses save for one old incandescent. Ive got lots of mini Mag parts etc. Hell if you cannot get yours to work Id be more than happy to give you one of mine I dont use them anymore anyways. They are all upgraded with glass lenses almost all of them have aftermarket tail clicky switches. Im much more into my 26 D cell Mags all modified of course. Ive got other small LED lights that took the place of my minis like the Fenix PD32 and the like.

and once again never use alkaline cells. Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA's give you more voltage, wont leak and they hold their charge for freaking ever.

Good luck
 

newbie66

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
1,063
Location
Malaysia
Good advice there. Did not realise DeOxit can clean contacts. :p

Too bad DeOxit is not sold where I live. Otherwise I would get some. I use eneloops in my lights so no issue there. I use alkalines for backup and other cheap nonessential stuff :)
 

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,472
Location
Dust in the Wind
white vinegar? Havnt heard that one before. The white corrosion you are seeing is most likely leakage from alkaline batteries in which case killed the light. Another case may be a solder point broke at some point. I must have 8 or 9 mini Mag Pros and Pro Pluses. You should be able to unscrew the head off for a better look. Another possibility is a patina developed over the main contact points and is blocking current. Another suggestion is to buy a spray can of DeOxit Gold. A couple of spritzes with that stuff will clean any kind of patina/corrosion off of anything. If you are an owner of any kind of Mag be it mini or full on 4 D cell having a spray can of DeOxit gold is a must. For example corrosion can and will build up in the switches of my big D cell Mags blocking current flow or limiting it severely. I remove the rubber switch cover and do 3 short sprays down inside the center of the switch. The Corrosion dissolves instantly restoring full current.

So...screw off the head first and closely examine the LED and the wiring. Look closely for cracked or broken solder points. If it checks out okay clean ALL the contact points in the light DeOxit Gold would be the best choice to do it with but if you dont have access to it where you are take a bottle of rubbing alcohol and some Q-Tips, wet one end of a Q-Tip with the rubbing alcohol and wipe over all the contact points.

As for mini Mags they turn on when the threads inside the head make contact with the bare metal section below the threads on the tube. So...clean the threads in the head (the rubbing alcohol and Q-tip method should work fine) and make sure the bare metal section below the threads on the tube are clean. Remember to be looking for any sign of corrosion the whole time. Also unscrew the end cap and get a good look down at the head end of the tube where the batteries make contact with the bottom of driver. It most likely has corrosion on it.

Should you run into any corrosion DeOxit is really the only way to get rid of it I hope you have a store there that sells it.

Another tip-what keeps the LED and driver in place is a single O ring and the bottom of the reflector pressing down against it. Inspect the reflector. Unscrew the bezel and make sure the reflector hasnt somehow gone off angle. Also this all could be due to a loose bezel not holding the reflector down.

Once you have cleaned everything and made sure the reflector is in straight and that the bezel is tight and holding the reflector in place and down upon the driver buy a pair of Energizer Ultimate lithium AA's. Never use alkalines again. The Energizers crank max 1.5 volts per cell right up until they die and they dont leak. It sounds like at some point one of your alkaline batteries leaked and said leakage spread along the tube which is why you had the white corrosion on the bottom of the end cap. Chances are high that the leakage also made it to the contact point on the bottom of the driver.

Id say you have a 50/50 chance of saving the light. Most of the time raw alkaline leaked onto any point of the current path essentially destroys the circuit altogether as raw alkaline breaks down the metal of contact points. Even if you score some De Oxit Gold there is a good chance the alkaline has broken down any conducive metals to where they lose the ability to carry current.

Sucks for you man I know everything is expensive where you are. Here in Virginia I can go to Home Depot and get a new Pro Plus for 25 bucks. Every larger box and hardware store here carries some kind of Mag. Usually last gen D cell LEDs and even the old incandescent Mags. Does Home Depot or Lowes have stores in Australia? Here both HD and lowes also carry mini Mag upgrade parts from LED conversion upgrades to tail clicky switches so you dont have to turn the head to turn it on or off.

Just counted, I have 9 mini Mags all Pros and Pro pluses save for one old incandescent. Ive got lots of mini Mag parts etc. Hell if you cannot get yours to work Id be more than happy to give you one of mine I dont use them anymore anyways. They are all upgraded with glass lenses almost all of them have aftermarket tail clicky switches. Im much more into my 26 D cell Mags all modified of course. Ive got other small LED lights that took the place of my minis like the Fenix PD32 and the like.

and once again never use alkaline cells. Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA's give you more voltage, wont leak and they hold their charge for freaking ever.

Good luck



Good info.
 

frostee8

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
11
Thanks for all the help! Very detailed
I have inspected the torch as much as I can and I suspect it was stored upright as all the corrosion I can see is in the base cap and honestly there isn't that much there. A little bit at the lip at the base of the spring and then a fair bit underneath the spring which I can't really get to. The head looks okay to me but I can't seem to get it out at all. I can just see a black plastic ring then the metal piece that the LED globe sits on. It spins and pushes up and down slightly but I can't move get it out (not sure if it should slide in from the top or the base)
 

xxo

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
3,010
What was the brand of the leaked batteries?

If they were duracell, energizer or rayovac they will most likely replace the light if you contact them.

For the future, I would suggest using energizer lithium L91s and/or Eneloops instead of alkalines.
 
Last edited:

frostee8

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
11
What was the brand of the leaked batteries?

If they were duracell, energizer or rayovac they will most likely replace the light if you contact them.

For the future, I would suggest using energizer lithium L91s and/or Eneloops instead of alkalines.

Not sure the batteries were thrown out a long while ago. I think there were actually the Duracells that came with the light but I have no way to prove that.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Just another reason not to use alkalines, ever. Use Lithium AAs in minimags.

I lost a D cell mag to the same problem. Drilled them out to no avail - not yet anyway.
 

xxo

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
3,010
Pull out the spring and scrub the inside of the tail cap with some fine(00 or finer) steel wool where the spring contacts it along with the contacts where the cap meets the body of the tube plus the spring itself everything needs to be down to clean bare metal with none of the white crud left. If steel wool don't work try fine sand paper.......BUT before trying all of this put some fresh batteries in the tube without the tail cap and use a key or a piece of wire to connect the negative end of the battery to the rear of the tube where the bare metal is (you might need to clean this part to bare metal first).....if the light lights, cleaning the spring/tail cap contacts should "fix" it. If it doesn't light chances are the corrosion got into the head of the light and killed it.
 

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