My first project light - Surefire C2 Centurion HA:

Thanks for everyone that helped me with my pilot duty light thread! Now, on to the next step... Small steps at first. Since Malkoff is sold out of Wildcat heads, I want to try a minor project light...

I just found a Surefire C2 Centurion HA, NOS/NIB... I've always wanted one of these. Yes, they are old, but still one of the best tactical lights ever built IMHO. Done. It will be here in a week. Here's what I want to do:

1. Best drop in LED: I assume Malkoff? Don't need over the top, 125-200 Lm. Neutral to warm color, now, the catch...

2. Power supply: I want to use RCR123s or normal 123s in a pinch. So, whatever drop in I buy needs to be compatible RCR123. Is this feasible? YES, I know I can bore this out to accept an 18650. I prefer NOT to go that route. Maybe later.

3. MAYBE a clicky switch... Maybe. Just is out on this one...

Pardon the questions. I did a search, but all the information that I found was a few years old. I'm sure there's been some changes.

This should keep me busy until Malkoff makes another run of wildcats. THANKS!

M61W or M61WL from Malkoff, can run both rechargeables and primaries. This is directly copied from Malkoff's site:

" It was designed specifically for use in Malkoff MD2, Elzetta ZFL-M60, and SureFire 6P, 9P, 6Z, Z2, Z3, C2, C3, M2, G3, and G2 flashlights. It may or may not fit other models. The input voltage is 3.4 - 9 volts. Below 3.4 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. This dropin is protected against reverse polarity. "

The M61W is 200 lumen and the M61WL is 125 lumens.

EDIT: The W version means warm by the way, so you get a nice warm colour. Since it's not that much lumens you get pretty sweet runtimes. :thumbsup:

Lots of folks are happy with the Malkoff M61NL. Neutral tint, runs for 5 hours, runs on either two RCR or two CR123 (or a single 17670), and has output of 130 lumens.

If you want higher output, go for the M61N which will run at 280 lumens for 1.5 hours.

The M61 versions of Malkoff drop-ins have an input voltage range from 3.4 - 9 volts. Below 3.4 volts they will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. They will work fine for your 2 primary CR123 or 2 rcr cells which have higher voltage.

Another option would be one of the M361-LMH series, which give you Low-Med-High in the same drop-in. The The input voltage range for these are 3.4-6 volts so you would need to stick with 2 primary CR123 cells, or maybe a single rechargeable 17670 would work.

The neutral version shows out of stock, but here is the cool white:
http://malkoff-devices.myshopify.com/products/m361-lmh-low-med-high-to-fit-surefire

I put a M61LL in my C2 however the preferred is a M61NL in a G2Z but there is no wrong answer.

I use a warm xpe2 in mine running 2 rcr123. Mcclicky hard switch

slightly off-topic, but i run 16650s in my C2 (unbored) with a M60L (I think, or maybe its a regular M60). Runtimes are pretty good with the 2500 mAh 16650s that i have and although its not bright as other lights i have, its brighter than i need for indoors as it will wake up the kiddo/wife if i use it while they are sleeping...

OK, I'm really leaning towards the M61NL. I think that will be the sweet spot in brightness. Twice as bright as stock xenon, and thats bright enough for most cases. Stock xenon was good enough for me for years before the LEDs came out.

Tell me more about the Mcclicky. Easy install? Part number, or are they all sized for the 6P or C2 caps? Need any special tools. I'm good at this stuff, I just want to make sure I have the right stuff.

Many thanks again! Thinking about a CB now too... Its only money... :shakehead

You can find McClickys at Oveready and Illumn. It comes in two parts, the switch proper and a threaded brass ring. I think there's instructions on OR. But all you have to do is remove the stock switch from the SF tail - I place the tail, boot upwards, on a hard surface. PLace a small 2mm ish posi screwdriver point (or a thin rod) in the middle of the boot and give it a sharp tap. There is a small rivet passing through the stock switch which will be knocked out. The switch will then fall out. With some pointy nose pliers ubscrew the plastic disc which remains in the tail, remove the boot and the plastic insert. Assemble the McClicky and brass ring, the switch fits inside the ring with the spring poking through on the side that has the small slots cut. Put a new boot into the tail and screw the McClicky in, once the threads bite use you pointy pliers to thread it down tight.
That's about it, I think.
Nice switches, Malkoff standard.
P

Edit: Having written all that I found the OR instructions.......
http://www.oveready.com/images/uploads/mcclicky.html

I'm going to be the odd duck here and recommend against a McClicky. I've never cared for them. The switch doesn't have enough physical resistance for my liking. After using a Surefire Z59, the McClicky was just disappointing to me. I realize it's a well built switch, but it just isn't my cup of tea.

Just some more info on batteries. I feel like a parrot and say this several times a week here. lol

Soshine makes some decent 3.0 volt RCR123s. They charge up to about 3.2 volts. I have used 2 of them with several 6.0 max volt rated drop ins with no problems. Make sure you find the 3.0 volt ones. They sell a 3.7 volt that looks nearly identical.

One issue to consider is they have a low storage capacity vs a quality 18650 or 16650. If you not worried about higher outputs, go the 18650 or 16650s.

cland72 said:

I'm going to be the odd duck here and recommend against a McClicky. I've never cared for them. The switch doesn't have enough physical resistance for my liking. After using a Surefire Z59, the McClicky was just disappointing to me. I realize it's a well built switch, but it just isn't my cup of tea.

Click to expand...

Have you tried the hard click switch? It feels very similar to the stock momentary switch

dc38 said:

Have you tried the hard click switch? It feels very similar to the stock momentary switch

Click to expand...

You know, that's a good question. I think I had the medium press boot - it definitely wasn't the soft press boot.

THANKS GUYS!!!!

The learning curve here is like drinking from a fire hose. I love it. OK, I'm going to try the Mcclicky. At that price, if I don't like it, I'll just put a stock Surefire back in place. It's worth a shot.

I see myself really getting into this hobby. I already see myself eventually ordering several more of these SFs to mod out... My truck, wifes car, night stand, EDC, BOB... Yup, this is gonna be cool.

Any other SF models that make great modded out lights? I just picked up a NIB SF 6P for $25 shipped. I'll make that my next victim. I really like the HA finish on the C2 though. Looks like its built like a tank.

Thanks for putting up with all of my Newb questions. I AM listening.

The 6P is the best host for the money right now. $35 or less, SHIPPED, for a BNIB 6P original is ridiculous.

cland72 said:

The 6P is the best host for the money right now. $35 or less, SHIPPED, for a BNIB 6P original is ridiculous.

Click to expand...

Agreed! I paid $50 for my original Surfire 6 back in 1991. Adjusted for inflation only puts it at over $75 now... Oh, and CR123 batteries were $5 - $7 A PIECE back then with no reghargable options... Man... Who'd of thunk...

Myself, I prefer the C3-HA.

Now somewhat difficult to find, or I'd have more of them....

archimedes said:

Myself, I prefer the C3-HA. Now somewhat difficult to find, or I'd have more of them....

Click to expand...

Yes, I can see the appeal. Maybe someday...

How durable is the rubber grip ring around it?? My only reservation with buying a ton of these as they become available is being able to replace the grip ring if (when) it degrades. Yes, you can remove it, but that kind of defeats one of the main reasons for going with this model.

OK... I know I said baby steps... Yeah, right.

OK, whats the benefit of boring this thing out to run one 18650? I take it that it would be the same lumens in a Malkoff M61 as 2 x RCR123s only a longer run time? Worth it, or overkill?

That should keep me busy for a while. THANKS!

The grip rings seem fairly durable to me. May not last forever, of course, but also doesn't seem too difficult to work out reasonable alternatives for grip, using O-rings and such ... :shrug:

As for boring out a stock SureFire, there is some debate here. Personally, I just use 16mm and 17mm cells instead, as I'd rather not alter the stock tube ... especially now that these are discontinued.

Thinning the tube, of course, weakens it (especially at the threads) .

If you want to use 18mm cells with a "P60" system, there are many alternative aftermarket hosts that don't need to be bored.