New Surefire 6P incan on its way

campingnut

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So this is an impuse buy, but I'm sure I will love it. Plus it was only $33 with free shipping...

I already have a bored (for 18650) C2 with a Vinh drop-in (lumens=wow, I think its an XML driven at 3a) and mcclicky. For this light I want something different. I really want this to be a good all around light that I can hand to my kids or others to use, but I want it to be tough. Do
I need to replace the switch as this is an incan? For the drop-in Malkoff comes to mind...

Please advise.
 

kj2

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Have a 6P incoming too. Will run a Malkoff M61WLL in it. AFAIK, there is no need to replace the switch. I asked in the incandescent section how much the standard switch can handle, and it should handle 3A ok.
 

thaugen

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I just ordered 3 Surefire 6P incandescent and am keeping one stock. For the others, I added black delrin bezel rings and Malkoff dropins (M61nl, M61wll). I have a Surefire G2 with a McClicky switch, but like the momentary/twisty for the 6P's.
 

Str8stroke

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Wow, your options are endless. Of course I don't know your budget. So I am gonna assume you are rich. lol

If you are going to hand to kids and stuff, I would run a single quality rechargeable. If you don't bore it, run a 17650 battery. I would also get a P60 with a fully programmable driver. One that has 2 mode groups. You set up a Group 1, "Flame Thrower", for your selfish butt to use, then before you set it down or hand off to wife or kids, switch groups to the "Kiddie output" group. For example: Each mode group could have the settings that are relative to the:
User1: 100%, 50%, 10%. outputs
User 2: single mode 50% (med) output
Ya dig me on all that madness?

Or once you get the hang of the programing, you could do a quick reprogram then hand off to kids.

A great drop in would be the Tana Triple P60 with the Dr. Jones MumboJumbo driver.

BTW: I have a few lights laying around the house set up exactly like this. They seem rather innocuous to the non flashlight enlightened. Then a couple taps later....BOOM!!!! Wife is gonna say, Hey how did you make it that bright?? Then you lie and say: I changed the battery. hehehehehe

P60
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...igh-power-custom-made-hybrid-modules-drop-ins

Driver:
http://drjones.nerdcamp.net/#lucid
 
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bykfixer

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I just ordered 3 Surefire 6P incandescent and am keeping one stock. For the others, I added black delrin bezel rings and Malkoff dropins (M61nl, M61wll). I have a Surefire G2 with a McClicky switch, but like the momentary/twisty for the 6P's.

I kept one stock as well.
One has a WLL(for stock look with 015 battery life), another has a WL (for a bit more oomph on lit streets) and I put an NL in a pair of G2's (one yellow, one black)
All 4 have the twisty switch still. So reliable!!

My favorite is the yellow G2 with that neutral drop in.
I had bought some 6P's and G2's last summer when $55 was a good price for an 015 6P and $45 for an 015 G2.
But recently there are a bunch of circa 09 6P's being unloaded for about $30-35. I bought a few below 30, but after s&h were about $33 as well.

Ya dun good camping nut.
Tell us what you ended up doing.
If you'll be letting the kids use it, consider leaving it stock. For no other reason than exposing them to old fashioned technology...like 'record players', 'rotary phones' and an actual 'incandecent' flashlight...a good one at that...with a switch that twisted to turn on.
 
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Swordforthelord

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Sep 2, 2009
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If you'll be handing it to others, I would replace the switch; fewer people will need to have a clicky explained to them than a momentary/twisty. I would also use a 16650 rather than a 17670 as they hold a lot more juice.
 

TMedina

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Dec 17, 2006
Messages
1,737
Second the M61xLL. Warm tints are nice, cool works better for all around oomph, in my opinion.

For $33 and free shipping, I'd buy one or two just because. Not like I need another Surefire host lying around...
 

Parrot Quack

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Jul 10, 2015
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Magalia, CA
Please advise.

Don't buy a 6P. Cheap yes, and? I have a couple from about a decade ago, one still in it's original box and wrap. I was glad to be done with them. They chewed through batteries, bulbs and clicky ends. At the time, they were the best. Today, not so much.

I moved from Surefire to JETBeam and from JETBeam to Nitecore. My personal opinion, Surefire, never again.
 

campingnut

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Messages
446
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In the Redwoods just North of the Golden Gate
Wow, your options are endless. Of course I don't know your budget. So I am gonna assume you are rich. lol

If you are going to hand to kids and stuff, I would run a single quality rechargeable. If you don't bore it, run a 17650 battery. I would also get a P60 with a fully programmable driver. One that has 2 mode groups. You set up a Group 1, "Flame Thrower", for your selfish butt to use, then before you set it down or hand off to wife or kids, switch groups to the "Kiddie output" group. For example: Each mode group could have the settings that are relative to the:
User1: 100%, 50%, 10%. outputs
User 2: single mode 50% (med) output
Ya dig me on all that madness?

Or once you get the hang of the programing, you could do a quick reprogram then hand off to kids.

A great drop in would be the Tana Triple P60 with the Dr. Jones MumboJumbo driver.

BTW: I have a few lights laying around the house set up exactly like this. They seem rather innocuous to the non flashlight enlightened. Then a couple taps later....BOOM!!!! Wife is gonna say, Hey how did you make it that bright?? Then you lie and say: I changed the battery. hehehehehe

P60
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...igh-power-custom-made-hybrid-modules-drop-ins

Driver:
http://drjones.nerdcamp.net/#lucid

This sounds fun, but I already have my C2 for this type of light. I am still debating if I want a single mode that will run forever or a L-M-H sequence.
 

campingnut

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Messages
446
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In the Redwoods just North of the Golden Gate
If you'll be letting the kids use it, consider leaving it stock. For no other reason than exposing them to old fashioned technology...like 'record players', 'rotary phones' and an actual 'incandecent' flashlight...

I have a few incan Maglights that serve this purpose...my kids say, "daddy you take this one, I think it's broken, give me the one in your pocket"...they know I EDC a good light. hehehe...
 

Swordforthelord

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I currently only use protected 18650, rcr123, eneloop aa and aaa cells. I need to research cells for this light. I do not understand how a 16mm cell could hold more than a 17mm???
More active development on it I guess. For that very reason the 18650 has FAR more capacity than a 1 mm increase in size would suggest. Keepower has 16650's; I have one that is a 2600 mah cell.
 

campingnut

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In the Redwoods just North of the Golden Gate
After a bit of reading, including HKJ's review here

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...eview-of-Keeppower-16650-2500mAh-(Black)-2015

I am going to purchase at least one of these cells for my new light.

In looking at the Malkoff description of thier M61WLL, they state on thier website, "The input voltage is 3.4 - 9 volts. Below 3.4 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive." What does this mean for the light? With a protected cell, I know the cell will turn off around 3.4, but what about primaries? Will this completely drain a set of primaries?
 

scout24

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Your incoming WLL will suck every last Mah out of a set of primaries. Slowly. Hours later, you still have slowly fading light. One of the best parts of running a Malkoff on primaries. :twothumbs
 

campingnut

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In the Redwoods just North of the Golden Gate
Your incoming WLL will suck every last Mah out of a set of primaries. Slowly. Hours later, you still have slowly fading light. One of the best parts of running a Malkoff on primaries. :twothumbs

I have not ordered a drop-in yet, but this is very good to hear. Right now I am debating between the WL and the WLL...any thoughts? Also what is the difference between the 60 and 61?
 

Grizzman

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Right now I am debating between the WL and the WLL...any thoughts? Also what is the difference between the 60 and 61?

For general usage, I prefer the L version. If it'll be used primarily (or strictly) indoors, the LL or even LLL gets my vote.

The biggest difference between the 61 and 60 is that the 60 uses an Acrylic optic instead of the reflector of the M61. I think the M61 stays in regulation to a slightly lower input voltage. The M60 uses a Cree XR-E emitter, instead of the XP-G2 of the M61.
 
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