gulp...armytek predator

mickb

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Aug 10, 2015
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Guys I just picked one of these up (regular 2.5 version, not the pro)for a steal after seeing a decent review on one. But then came across all the the bad quality reports here. Which was probably pretty stupid of me not to check first, but as mentioned it was on sale price.
A bit worried now what to expect.. Problems with o-rings being chewed up when things are unscrewed, hi light modes failing, lights failing after a single drop?? Are these a poor brand? Why does everyone talk about exceptional build quality on these if it doesn't relate to keeping the lights working?
 

Aldiggi

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Feb 26, 2007
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Guys I just picked one of these up (regular 2.5 version, not the pro)for a steal after seeing a decent review on one. But then came across all the the bad quality reports here. Which was probably pretty stupid of me not to check first, but as mentioned it was on sale price.
A bit worried now what to expect.. Problems with o-rings being chewed up when things are unscrewed, hi light modes failing, lights failing after a single drop?? Are these a poor brand? Why does everyone talk about exceptional build quality on these if it doesn't relate to keeping the lights working?
I have owned almost every brand out there and I am very happy with my Armytek. I own the Predator Pro and am very happy with the light actually that I went ahead and ordered the Doberman Pro. A lot of these issues honestly I believe have to do with the battery or mis programming the light. Enjoy your light and do not let any of those negative reviews ruin the enjoyment. I am not taking away from the negative reviews but it happens to the best of them unfortunately. See for yourself and keep us posted.
 
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ncgrass

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I have a predator v2.5 cool white and it's been 100% reliable. I thrown it up to 20m into various surfaces countless times with no issues. I've had no chewed o rings or failures of any mode.

It's been used a lot outdoors down to -30, sometimes buried in snow and never fails. I've kicked it along up to 100m with no ill effects - the anodising has even held up beyond expectations. I'll continue to carry mine and expect it to work every time.

The v2.5 seems to be the best version so far. I'm sure yours will work perfectly :) report back here and let us know!

Link to pic of said light...

http://s16.postimg.org/fqsgrhj5h/AT_pred.png
 
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Ishango

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I've owned pretty much all the popular brands on here as well. ArmyTek really has some nice flashlights. I have the regular Armytek Predator V2.0, a Prime A1 and a Partner A1 V2.0. I am very pleased with the build of my ArmyTek lights until now. The Predator has been taken along while camping and has had a fair share of dropping, heavy raining and no issues whatsoever have shown up.

The only lights I've had problems with are the lights in the Partner line. First one (Partner A1 original) had a switch defect. It was replaced by ArmyTek with a Partner V2.0. That one too started to have problems (alternating between high and low mode when switched on). I mailed ArmyTek about it, made a video on their request and I'm about to send it to them to get it replaced. ArmyTek has handled this very nicely until now.
 

wjv

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Most people are complaining about the 3.0 versions. .

The 2.5's and before were pretty rock solid.
 

mickb

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Thanks for the vote of confidence gents. I also wouldn't mind hearing from the other side of the coin if there are any out there with a Predator regular 2.5 that didn't work out, or things I should look out for.

It got me thinking, I cleaned out some old boxes before chistmas at my parents, and gave some of the 70's and 80's relics I found therein to my brothers 4-6 yr old kids to abuse. Including an Atari 2600(!), something called an etcha-sketch animator, one of the original donkey kong LCD games( the green colored one) and some very early remote controlled cars( the ones that only went two ways, straight forward and backwards with a right rurn!) And they all still worked and are currently surviving second round of abuse in 30 years.

Meanwhile I am waiting for a tactical based flashlight with space age technology, materials and coatings wondering if it will

1. Arrive working as advertised
2. Continue working 3-5 years which is considered great by todays standards..
 

mickb

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Well I maybe caused bad luck worrying about this since I just recieved my predator and the following is occurring. On the lower modes small jolts to the light cause it to momentarily jump to max power mode and sometimes skip a mode permanently. Also actually putting mild pressure on the lights body near the head, (like as if trying to flex the light in half gently with both hands) also causes the light to go to to high mode from low. The light output and beam is amazing but the bodies rigidity and switches are lacking in some way. My next test was for weapons recoil , as armytek says should be fine but I am probably not going to bother with now. I'll talk to the distributor here who is a good guy by reputation and see what he says.
 

zs&tas

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Make sure all the threads are clean head end, can cause wierdo mode changes and also make sure when in head loosened state it is a good bit loose, like I mean with my eagletac if I loosen just enough for mode change if I try to bend the light the batt tube can still make contact and the light think you tightened up again.
 

scs

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Feb 9, 2015
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Well I maybe caused bad luck worrying about this since I just recieved my predator and the following is occurring. On the lower modes small jolts to the light cause it to momentarily jump to max power mode and sometimes skip a mode permanently. Also actually putting mild pressure on the lights body near the head, (like as if trying to flex the light in half gently with both hands) also causes the light to go to to high mode from low. The light output and beam is amazing but the bodies rigidity and switches are lacking in some way. My next test was for weapons recoil , as armytek says should be fine but I am probably not going to bother with now. I'll talk to the distributor here who is a good guy by reputation and see what he says.

Test the light thoroughly, mate. What you've described is not normal. Push the light to reveal its defects early, before you cannot get a quick exchange or refund from your dealer, and you have to send it off for repairs and won't be seeing it for a long time.
 

mickb

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Zs that got me thinking. The mode situation resolves if I unscrew the head closer to a 1/4 turn, well past mode change and instead of 1/8 turn as advertised. is this an acceptable tolerance? I am still not happy about it.
 

Aldiggi

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Zs that got me thinking. The mode situation resolves if I unscrew the head closer to a 1/4 turn, well past mode change and instead of 1/8 turn as advertised. is this an acceptable tolerance? I am still not happy about it.

Depending on battery size you may have to loosen a little more or loosen a little less.
 

wjv

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1/4 turn is not a problem.
Battery size is a factor
- Button top Vs Flat top.
- Even within the same battery type (button top) overall battery lengths can vary.

This effects how much turn is needed
 

scs

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1/4 turn is not a problem.
Battery size is a factor
- Button top Vs Flat top.
- Even within the same battery type (button top) overall battery lengths can vary.

This effects how much turn is needed

I thought the turn worked by changing the current path: with the head tightened, the top of the body contacts the rim of the driver; with the head loosened, that contact switches over to just via the unanodized threads.
 

Jake-d

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Dec 1, 2015
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Well I maybe caused bad luck worrying about this since I just recieved my predator and the following is occurring. On the lower modes small jolts to the light cause it to momentarily jump to max power mode and sometimes skip a mode permanently. Also actually putting mild pressure on the lights body near the head, (like as if trying to flex the light in half gently with both hands) also causes the light to go to to high mode from low. The light output and beam is amazing but the bodies rigidity and switches are lacking in some way. My next test was for weapons recoil , as armytek says should be fine but I am probably not going to bother with now. I'll talk to the distributor here who is a good guy by reputation and see what he says.

mine is a couple years old, same exact issue! I had plans to mount it, but it will not handle recoil, it changes modes because the head moves, and I think it changes the contact, as if you were twisting light. ( but not twisting, the head rocks back and forth slighty.)
 

zs&tas

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Zs that got me thinking. The mode situation resolves if I unscrew the head closer to a 1/4 turn, well past mode change and instead of 1/8 turn as advertised. is this an acceptable tolerance? I am still not happy about it.

That sounds good to me 1/4 turn is nothing really for the body to solidly step away from the contact board . If you look at the threads side, actually consider how much the body moves back in 1/4 turn. It is not much.
 

jayke

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I have a Predator Pro X v2.5 and I have had no issues with it besides a tail cap issue when it first arrived that they sent me a new one to resolve. The light has a few dings and scratches (it's a user) and it is still working great. Also have a Prime Pro C1, Prime Pro C2 and a Wizard headlamp. Have been happy with all of them and no issues.
 

mickb

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I have a Predator Pro X v2.5 and I have had no issues with it besides a tail cap issue when it first arrived that they sent me a new one to resolve. The light has a few dings and scratches (it's a user) and it is still working great. Also have a Prime Pro C1, Prime Pro C2 and a Wizard headlamp. Have been happy with all of them and no issues.

You had no issues with your light.. apart from a tailcap issue when it arrived which was replaced. Dude, that is an issue then.
 

Jake-d

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Dec 1, 2015
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should I be contacting armytek to fix my predator? can anyone else " rock the head" back and forth and change modes?
 
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