I thought I lost this light years ago but sure enough there it was in the bottom of a backpack! Funny enough I was just going to order the new Surefire Peacekeeper which takes 18650 batteries and is much brighter. Anyways I did some research and learned I can convert this light to 18650 use which I'd prefer since I already have batteries and a charger. I believe its only 80 lumens but I think that's fine for just at home use that won't blind me. Anyways I planned to convert the light but found 2 options. A. Get the original surefire body machined to accept 18650 B buy another body (Solarforce) that fits the original surefire parts. I'd rather keep it original because the warranty but I assume if they find out the body has been machined this would void the warranty anyway. Less keeping it surefire. Is it equally acceptable to buy a Solarforce 18650 body and recycle the residual parts instead of paying about $50 to get it milled? Also is the LED in the 6p led OK to use with 18650 or will I need a different drop in? Can I run 18650 in my original surefire by only changing the body to an 18650 compatible body?
Question on Old Surefire 6P LED
- Thread starter jtatarin
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Pilotodude
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2015
- Messages
- 130
I recently went through the same dilemma. It was highly recommended to me that I do not ruin a perfectly good SF tube by boring it out. Instead of doing that I ordered a few 16650 batteries. At 2500ma they make a great substitute for the 18650s. They are just a little thinner and fit well into the existing body with no modification.
As for the original bulb being compatible with the higher voltage, that is out of my expertise, but even if it was I would order a better drop in. It's amazing how much of a completely different light this becomes when you put in a nice Malkoff M61 variation of your choice. It turns a great light into a perfect light.
As for the original bulb being compatible with the higher voltage, that is out of my expertise, but even if it was I would order a better drop in. It's amazing how much of a completely different light this becomes when you put in a nice Malkoff M61 variation of your choice. It turns a great light into a perfect light.
Thanks for your input! I am pretty stuck on 18650 because I have a drawer full of them. I actually think the 18650 batteries have less voltage then 2 CR123A. I think I need to be sure the LED runs around 3.6V at least thats what my other 18650 gadgets use.
If it's a 6P LED, as in has '6P LED' on the barrel please don't bore it. Not that it's worth a million billion $ or anything...but way less of those are laying around.
The SolarForce are already drilled.
But those 16650's are getting better all the time. Good suggestion pilot.
And if you're concerned about voltage a Malkoff drop in (M61) is pretty good about varying volts. 3.4 to over 9 if memory serves.
The SolarForce are already drilled.
But those 16650's are getting better all the time. Good suggestion pilot.
And if you're concerned about voltage a Malkoff drop in (M61) is pretty good about varying volts. 3.4 to over 9 if memory serves.
Last edited:
It's possible that the head of your 6P LED has an LED assembly that isn't removable, but an integrated part of the head instead. If you lightly pull on the LED assembly and it stays in the head, then it won't be directly upgradable with an LED assembly. I gave away my only Surefire P60 LED assembly, but due to the angry blue tint, I don't miss it at all. While it may run from a single Li-Ion cell, if it's got the same tint as mine did, why you'd want to is beyond my comprehension.
There are lots of 6P bodies for sale on eBay for $20-30. There's one right now that's supposedly been bored for 18mm cells...for $55. I consider this a far better option then using a Solarforce host.
If you're able to remove the LED assembly from the head with minimal effort (literally turn it upside down and it practically falls out), then the host is directly compatible with a Malkoff drop-in.
An alternate to Surefire bodies, and much better than Solarforce, is Fivemega. He is a CPF member that sells Surefire compatible bodies that fit 18650 cells. They're a lot more money than a dirt cheap Solarforce, but they are supposed to be quite good.
There are lots of 6P bodies for sale on eBay for $20-30. There's one right now that's supposedly been bored for 18mm cells...for $55. I consider this a far better option then using a Solarforce host.
If you're able to remove the LED assembly from the head with minimal effort (literally turn it upside down and it practically falls out), then the host is directly compatible with a Malkoff drop-in.
An alternate to Surefire bodies, and much better than Solarforce, is Fivemega. He is a CPF member that sells Surefire compatible bodies that fit 18650 cells. They're a lot more money than a dirt cheap Solarforce, but they are supposed to be quite good.
^^ I can attest to the FiveMega being quite good.
And he still has some 6P heads (Z44) in stock if the big E 6P's are gone.
And he still has some 6P heads (Z44) in stock if the big E 6P's are gone.
peter yetman
Flashlight Enthusiast
From Post #25 here...
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?207884-Surefire-P60L-vs-Malkoff-M60LL
It looks like your P60L is good for at least 6v. Running it on a single 3.7v LI Ion will do no harm. It may have a low voltage cutoff, so may not run for long on the battery. You can do it no harm, though.
Read the rest of that thread.........
I will say no more.
P
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?207884-Surefire-P60L-vs-Malkoff-M60LL
It looks like your P60L is good for at least 6v. Running it on a single 3.7v LI Ion will do no harm. It may have a low voltage cutoff, so may not run for long on the battery. You can do it no harm, though.
Read the rest of that thread.........
I will say no more.
P
Last edited:
16650/17650 are no alternative to 18650 ...
the Solarforce are quite OK, especially when cost is an issue,
"bored" 18650 SF hosts (oveready) or ready made custom 18650 hosts (fivemega) usually are of higher quality
(handle a bit nicer, un-/screwing on end cap is "nicer"; fit of parts usually better)
the typical led insert is of "P60 size" and my recommendation is to get one from member nailbender (nailbenders shop: www.customlites.com)
f.e. the typical solution:
* http://www.customlites.com/P60-D26-Cree-[B]XM-L2[/B]-28-6-volt-P60-CR-XML2.htm --> orange peel reflector, 3 level, U2 5000 K neutral emitter
when runtime is a concern - the XM-L2 wil give You 1 hour max at high - then go for the "smaller led", the "P60 / D26 Cree XP-G2 2.8-6 volts" insert.
that roughly doubles the runtime values and - for the beginner - does not seem much less bright, because the main beam is almost the same brightness (it is not as wide and thus ...)
my personal con here is, that the levels are stated as high --> med --> low, and I like it the other way round ...
it makes sense to save at the host but not on the light engine, as well as not with the batteries
the Solarforce are quite OK, especially when cost is an issue,
"bored" 18650 SF hosts (oveready) or ready made custom 18650 hosts (fivemega) usually are of higher quality
(handle a bit nicer, un-/screwing on end cap is "nicer"; fit of parts usually better)
the typical led insert is of "P60 size" and my recommendation is to get one from member nailbender (nailbenders shop: www.customlites.com)
f.e. the typical solution:
* http://www.customlites.com/P60-D26-Cree-[B]XM-L2[/B]-28-6-volt-P60-CR-XML2.htm --> orange peel reflector, 3 level, U2 5000 K neutral emitter
when runtime is a concern - the XM-L2 wil give You 1 hour max at high - then go for the "smaller led", the "P60 / D26 Cree XP-G2 2.8-6 volts" insert.
that roughly doubles the runtime values and - for the beginner - does not seem much less bright, because the main beam is almost the same brightness (it is not as wide and thus ...)
my personal con here is, that the levels are stated as high --> med --> low, and I like it the other way round ...
it makes sense to save at the host but not on the light engine, as well as not with the batteries
Last edited:
lightfooted
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 6, 2010
- Messages
- 1,017
I have two Solarforce lights and no problems with them at all. The finish is not as good as a SF but then, you're not paying $60 for it either. I have kept my Surefires stock and use the 16650s and 17670s in them. I get more than an hour runtime with my XM-Ls and the XM-L2s should be even better when not being driven for max output. Even then you won't be losing too much. Personally I vote for keeping it stock.
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
I have run a SF P60L using a 16650 without problems but didn't do a runtime test etc. I have run a M61L (N&W) for hours and hours in a 6P and it works great! I would go with a 16650 2500 Keeppower battery over boring out your light.
The vape world has really helped with the 18650.
But the 16650 aint nuthin' to sneeze at these days.
And the keepower battery is good stuff. Buy a pair and a charger from Malkoff and enjoy the show.
But the 16650 aint nuthin' to sneeze at these days.
And the keepower battery is good stuff. Buy a pair and a charger from Malkoff and enjoy the show.
I tried a P60L in my Solarforce L2T and it didn't work. I didn't wrap any foil or copper tape around it though. Runs fine with one of my 18650 bored 6P bodies. It won't be as bright on an 18650 as CR123's, but pretty close.
Solarforce hosts are cheap, but nowhere near the quality of a Surefire body imo.
Solarforce hosts are cheap, but nowhere near the quality of a Surefire body imo.
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
I just bought some Redilast protected 17670s for my unbored 6P and they work fine. I also added a Redilast 3 mode XM-L2 U2 P60 and now it's a passable light, although it sits in a drawer.
Chris
Chris
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
When the SF P60 LED came out SF recommended it for use in the 6P and 9P series. Looks like a buck circuit. 18650 will probably work regulated for awhile, but regulation is best at 6-9 volts, or two Li-Ions.
Bill
Bill
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
I think Solarforce doesn't have the exact same specs as the 6P. I don't think that issue is a quality one rather design. It's just not an exact clone.
