There are so many new lights recently, but I haven't seen many using plastic/polymer bodies. Every light these days is easily doing 1000 lumens because of the XM-L2 or some other huge output emitter, but I would like to see more lights get back to focusing on super comfortable bodies that don't feel cold against your skin. I wouldn't mind seeing lower high modes either as a trade off.
Any new/recent fairly high output polymer body lights --- Fenix E40 style?
- Thread starter martinaee
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
the0dore3524
Flashlight Enthusiast
Same! I like the aluminum bodies, but the plastic/polymer ones are by far more comfortable.
Agreed. I would love to see a Zebralight SC62 type light with acrylic optics and polymer body. It would be one tough puppy. Seeing that they already have the potted electronics and PID ready to roll, it seems like an easy transition. I think of this quite often actually.
The problem with polymer (plastic) lights is they don't get rid of heat well at all so you either have to have a larger heatsink and lower output or a lot lower output. I like plastic lights as they can be lighter, don't scratch other stuff they come in contact with or get nicked noticably by bumping them into something harder, easier to grip and feel more comfortable bare handed in both cold and hot weather. You probably won't see plastic lights with outputs much beyond about 300 lumens and also some plastic lights cost a bunch more than a more versatile aluminum light.
I agree, I have an older JETbeam PA40 that I really like for that reason, I believe they recently came out with a ~700 lumen version I've thought about picking up. It used a metal head and polymer body. Not only do metal bodies feel cold, unless they have knurling they are slippery. I've used flatted bicycle tubes in the past to put over metal body lights, but they dry out and crack after awhile. Large diameter heat shrink would probably work too.
Part of the problem is probably cooling, lights get so hot so fast now, that they probably really need the whole light body to be a heat sync. Some of these new 1000-2000 lumen smaller lights you can feel getting warm in just a few seconds, much less minutes in "turbo" mode. Sadly the reality is that right now max lumens is absolutely driving the market, even if it can only maintain that level for a couple minutes.
Part of the problem is probably cooling, lights get so hot so fast now, that they probably really need the whole light body to be a heat sync. Some of these new 1000-2000 lumen smaller lights you can feel getting warm in just a few seconds, much less minutes in "turbo" mode. Sadly the reality is that right now max lumens is absolutely driving the market, even if it can only maintain that level for a couple minutes.
I totally understand that and am okay with it though. I would love an MT-G2 4aa light that didn't go beyond say 500 lumens if that meant it getting too hot for the body. I just feel like every time CREE puts out their latest emitter these days it becomes a race to see who can either pack the most of them in one light or who can power them to the max in yet another generic aluminum body. I am starting to feel like we've hit peak-lumens now seriously need to get back to focusing on lights that are all about the body and user experience.
The problem is 500 lumens these days requires considerably more heatsinking than a plastic light can manage. I would love to see a 3 mode plastic light about 7/50/350 lumens output myself but I'm guessing it would cost $100. I've found myself looking at runtimes on modes less than 100 lumens myself as having to carry extra batteries for a light I sometimes need to use all day is a bummer.
Last edited:
I'm thinking polymer light with an aluminum head, but maybe you're right. Even 500 might be too much for the most efficient XM-L2s or what not. Maybe we could have lights that have polymer/plastic sleeves on them. Fenix had a 2AA light a number of years ago that was like this. All aluminum and it had a grey "sleeve" of polymer/plastic over it. And there was the Fenix 2AA with the Rubber over the handle? Everyone seemed to loved that light, but I never owned one.
Lights like the SF G2x/pro are near doing this. I have the 320 lumen model (I think that's the output) and it doesn't really get that hot quickly. I bet you could do at least 500 in a light like that if you have thermal regulation or a step down timer.
Last edited:
I think that one needs to run a light for at least a half an hour to see truly how hot it gets maybe even an hour without a hand on it to help with away heat because plastic lights are typically work lights and may be set down pointing at something while working on it with both hands. Another thing to consider is most plastic lights are designed for primary batteries with many recommending alkaline batteries in them and at times those batteries under heavy loads add heat to the light. I have a friend with a 6AA light (coleman?) that is rated I think about 500 lumens and after it runs for about 20 minutes it is very warm to the touch and it is aluminum. Now this may be more possible once Cree gets the higher efficiency LEDs out as a ~300 lumens/watt LED vs a ~150 lumens/watt LED theoretically should make for half the heat output thus probably doubling the lumens I would figure.
To be honest I don't see a point in having a 2AA light that is 500 lumens output as the runtime would be too short and thermal stepdown would make it even less useful. I'm of the persuasion that unless size is utmost importance (pocketable) then less than a 30 minute high mode (an hour would be better) is the minimum for a high I would desire and I doubt 2AA can do that.
300 lumens vs 500 lumens isn't a huge jump in output for average use. Unless you are needing to blast an open field or search a quarter of a mile ahead with it even 250 lumens would suffice. I say for now either accept a lower output plastic light, or use something to cover an aluminum light like heat shrink.
Maybe someone who knows more about heatsinking could chime in and correct me on the future of such plastic lights with newer Cree products on the way.
You're right. I think the topic is steering towards wanting high output polymer body lights. I just want to see more polymer body lights come out in general. They don't need to be output monsters. It's just nice to have a variety of "comfortable" plastic or rubber handled lights to go along with the myriad of futuristic cold metal lights we're getting from every company 
Rubberized metal lights are out there to find but I find them at times less comfortable than plastic and even metal lights if temperature isn't an issue plus they often end up feeling gummy over time too. I think the main problem is people are still stuck on super lumen outputs instead of usefulness. About the only thing that will help polymer lights is maxing out on LED emitter efficiency such that manufacturers don't have to constantly change light delivery systems and driver circuits and lights can be made that don't get outdated every few years in design and output. I love the feel of my UK 2AAA LED polymer light and wish they made one with higher output and multiple modes the same size with plastics you can make lights that are more comfortable in design than metal.You're right. I think the topic is steering towards wanting high output polymer body lights. I just want to see more polymer body lights come out in general. They don't need to be output monsters. It's just nice to have a variety of "comfortable" plastic or rubber handled lights to go along with the myriad of futuristic cold metal lights we're getting from every company
I haven't looked at the offerings today oh here is an interesting one.... too bad it uses C cells.
http://uwk.com/products/sl3-eled#.VrOdgUBalMo
Here is another interesting light.... that uses 4AAs
http://www.streamlight.com/en-us/product/product.html?pid=285
300 lumens high/50 lumens low and about $45 on ebay probably under $50 on amazon too.
http://www.streamlight.com/en-us/product/product.html?pid=285
300 lumens high/50 lumens low and about $45 on ebay probably under $50 on amazon too.
The Streamlight Propolymer 4AA Luxeon was my first LED flashlight back somewhere around 2006. It was recommended in his top 4 light by a guy that did many reviews before Selfbuilt.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews_index/reviews_top_picks.htm
I got all my son-in-laws one and then years later asked for them all back, sold them and gave them all a Jetbeam PA40. I agree with you guys that I wish there were more choices even if they only put out 400 lumens. For me what counts isn't max lumens for a short time but efficiency! I just can't take any of my anodized aluminum nice lights when working on a car or in an industrial environment because they get scratched up. I would love to see some more options in polymer.
When I got into doing run time graphs, I realized that the SL PP 4AA light was way out dated. I liked the body of the light. Ever since I have been a little suspicious of Streamlight because they don't publish the LED......just call it a C4......which I think is a soldering process called "controlled collapse chip connection"........... not an LED.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews_index/reviews_top_picks.htm
I got all my son-in-laws one and then years later asked for them all back, sold them and gave them all a Jetbeam PA40. I agree with you guys that I wish there were more choices even if they only put out 400 lumens. For me what counts isn't max lumens for a short time but efficiency! I just can't take any of my anodized aluminum nice lights when working on a car or in an industrial environment because they get scratched up. I would love to see some more options in polymer.
When I got into doing run time graphs, I realized that the SL PP 4AA light was way out dated. I liked the body of the light. Ever since I have been a little suspicious of Streamlight because they don't publish the LED......just call it a C4......which I think is a soldering process called "controlled collapse chip connection"........... not an LED.
Did you check the link in my post.... updated SL PP only 300/50 lumens (two modes plus strobe) and runtime IMO is "right" for the modes 2.75hrs high 24hrs low. I know 300 lumens isn't 400 but almost 3 hours runtime off alkalines is useful not sure what runtime would be on eneloops but using the pro series I'm guessing will get you 3 hours on high.
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2011
- Messages
- 2,408
You could get some brush-on super glue and use it as a lacquer to coat your aluminum light. It will make it feel like a plastic light and is quite durable. Just make sure to leave the portion around the head uncoated so heat can still get out easily.
I wouldn't recommend this technique for extremely high-output lights though. And your light will probably look like crap.
I wouldn't recommend this technique for extremely high-output lights though. And your light will probably look like crap.
Not to mention super glue doesn't stick well to lot of things, better option would be tool dip for tool handles or heat shrink tubing. One other main advantage of polymer lights is weight and coating metal lights only adds weight to already heavy lights to begin with.
