TM06S

I just received my new TM06S and I have to say that I'm disappointed. It doesn't seem to be 4000 lumens. It appears to be closer to 2000. In comparison with my original TM11, I can't tell which one has a brighter hotspot. Even with the TM06S being much cooler than the 11 it's a toss up. In doing a ceiling bounce, once again it's impossible to tell which is brighter. Comparing my TM16GT to my TM11 there is a noticeable difference in the ceiling bounce. Am I expecting too much? To me going from 2000 to 4000 lumens should make a big difference in a 6'x6' room. I'm not sure what to make of it.
As far as the rest of the light:
I like the switch, it's basically the same as the TM11, and I like the blue, but why no lock out? I have noticed that if I loosen the battery cap about 2mm, the light will give one flash on high, then won't function. But the strange thing is that after it flashes, the switch will flash out the battery voltage. So even thought the switch has power the light won't function. Maybe two of the batteries are losing contact since they are 2s and 2p. The one set is still powering the switch?
The threads on the battery tube are below average and as I tighten the cap it becomes VERY hard to turn to make full contact. I have noticed that the springs on the battery cap are stiff so that might be the reason it's hard to turn.
The beam profile leaves a little to be desired due to the 4 emmiter design and I much prefer my Sr Mini with it's tir lens.
I like how small it is and was surprised by it's size. But other than the smaller size and a nice 3 lumen low there is no improvement over my TM11. If I didn't get a good deal on it I would have been very disappointed with the purchase.

I am not surprised, after reading selfbuilts review on the original. Just out of interest what batteries are you using ?

Yes what batteries? I found around seeing the O ring locks out fully which is not ideal....I have the vinh version boosted and with u3 led's. The output is very impressive , the throw and flood was pretty amazing for the small reflectors. The UI was good, liked the way you can 1/2 press to drop down a mode to save cycling through. But this was around 4500+ lumens iirc.

I never really fully took to it, maybe the size/girth just did not feel too comfortable for me. Hard to explain other than not that kind of natural feel when holding the light. I am not a fan of the cell lay out either....much prefer the tm11/15/26 lay out.

I was using some Panasonic 18650b protected button tops. I just received some Sanyo 18650GA's and will try it with those when I get home and get them charged.
And I agree with you about the unnatural feeling when holding it. My Sr Mini is a fraction smaller in diameter but feels a whole lot better when using it.

stat2010 said:

I just received my new TM06S and I have to say that I'm disappointed. It doesn't seem to be 4000 lumens. It appears to be closer to 2000. In comparison with my original TM11, I can't tell which one has a brighter hotspot. Even with the TM06S being much cooler than the 11 it's a toss up. In doing a ceiling bounce, once again it's impossible to tell which is brighter. Comparing my TM16GT to my TM11 there is a noticeable difference in the ceiling bounce. Am I expecting too much? To me going from 2000 to 4000 lumens should make a big difference in a 6'x6' room. I'm not sure what to make of it.
As far as the rest of the light:
I like the switch, it's basically the same as the TM11, and I like the blue, but why no lock out? I have noticed that if I loosen the battery cap about 2mm, the light will give one flash on high, then won't function. But the strange thing is that after it flashes, the switch will flash out the battery voltage. So even thought the switch has power the light won't function. Maybe two of the batteries are losing contact since they are 2s and 2p. The one set is still powering the switch?
The threads on the battery tube are below average and as I tighten the cap it becomes VERY hard to turn to make full contact. I have noticed that the springs on the battery cap are stiff so that might be the reason it's hard to turn.
The beam profile leaves a little to be desired due to the 4 emmiter design and I much prefer my Sr Mini with it's tir lens.
I like how small it is and was surprised by it's size. But other than the smaller size and a nice 3 lumen low there is no improvement over my TM11. If I didn't get a good deal on it I would have been very disappointed with the purchase.

Click to expand...

It takes 4 times the lumens to equal twice as bright to your eyes and eyes arent a great judge of brightness to begin with.

Yes agree on the mini, just feels better in hand and the UI just works as simple as it is, with the double click to advance reduces any unwanted mode changes............not to mention a few mm turn of the tail cap locks it out!

Sure the new cells will help a little, as for output mr tachead hit the nail on the head. Its amazing how small bumps are , yet the difference in lumens is 1000's. As one example the tk75vnQ70, 14,000+lm, on the 5 mode group from 50 to 70 to 100 is just a little bump up, yet from 7000 ish to 14000 ish lumens........Its obviously noticeable, just not as much as one would expect

Tachead said:

It takes 4 times the lumens to equal twice as bright to your eyes and eyes arent a great judge of brightness to begin with.

Click to expand...

I knew that going from 2000 to 4000 wouldn't double the brightness, but I didn't know that it was 4 times the lumens to get to double. Thanks for the education. 👍
I noticed that if I ceiling bounce my EC20 and then add my MH20 there is a very significant bump in brightness. Probably not double, but very noticeable. So why wouldn't it be as noticeable going from 2000 to 4000?
Maybe because the higher the initial lumens, the more of an increase it takes for the eyes to be able to notice the difference? I guess going from 1 lumen to 2 lumens would be pretty noticeable, but going from 2 to 4 wouldn't be as noticeable?
Thanks again!

Try using the UI and drop down a level, you will notice then. Your eyes are adapted at say 2000lm, pupils dilated, then to 4000lm it does not appear as you would expect . Working the other way from 4000 to 2000lm does show the difference better.

Good idea ven . Yeah I have noticed its easier to detect lumens lost than lumens gained, on numerous occasions.

Thanks to NNA, he suggested it a while back, and it does make sense going back(of course if the UI allows which there are not too many lights that do!)