E series McClicky install

mk2rocco · Feb 19, 2016

I've been researching how to install a McClicky into an E-Series tailcap and couldn't find a guide... So I made one!

Some comparison shots of a McClicky vs a Surefire Clicky (E series):

How a Z61 is assembled:

Now for the modification part.. I think the image below pretty much sums it up. I have lined up the parts of the switches that come in contact with the body so we can use it as a reference point.

After crudely executing the modification:

Victory shots!

Hope this helps someone out! PM me if you have any questions :thumbsup:

m4a1usr · Feb 19, 2016

Wow. This is weird. I had just got done building a fixture last weekend and taking pic's to create something similar to what you just posted. Great minds huh? There is a tutorial of this mod here on CPF but its old and all of the pic links have died so its descriptions without any visual reference. I had it bookmarked but just deleted it as I had planned a write up like yours.

As mentioned I made a holding fixture out of 1/4" think aluminum. Nothing but screw it in and file away. I used a lock washer pressed in from one side and set it to the proper depth. Looks like you used about the same amount of threaded material left over. About 2 1/2 threads. Here's a pic for details and sbows the three most common Surefire E series clickies as well.

mk2rocco · Feb 20, 2016

Nice! I was thinking about making a fixture to hold the switch, very cool..

mcbrat · Feb 20, 2016

looks like your setup has gone through a few filings

m4a1usr said:
Wow. This is weird. I had just got done building a fixture last weekend and taking pic's to create something similar to what you just posted. Great minds huh? There is a tutorial of this mod here on CPF but its old and all of the pic links have died so its descriptions without any visual reference. I had it bookmarked but just deleted it as I had planned a write up like yours.

As mentioned I made a holding fixture out of 1/4" think aluminum. Nothing but screw it in and file away. I used a lock washer pressed in from one side and set it to the proper depth. Looks like you used about the same amount of threaded material left over. About 2 1/2 threads. Here's a pic for details and sbows the three most common Surefire E series clickies as well.

Hudson456 · Feb 20, 2016

mcbrat said:
looks like your setup has gone through a few filings

Nice tutorial.

Quick question though - I know the McClicky switches have a great reputation around here. But why do this mod? Is the stock Surefire switch considered unreliable? Or is it simply for the lighter press? I have noticed that my E2DL switch is much harder to activate when compared to my MDC. Thumb gets tired.

mcbrat · Feb 20, 2016

Yes, the McClicky can handle higher currents. I've had a dead short totally fry the surefire switches but the McClicky was still functional.

m4a1usr · Feb 20, 2016

mcbrat said:
looks like your setup has gone through a few filings

You are absolutely correct sir! Decided to "rebuild" a batch of users in the EDC collection after having a recent failure in one. I didn't think I'd ever see one since the SF clickies don't have a high failure rate. I guess everything fails at some point.

I love your mod post mk2rocco. It's now bookmarked replacing the original one now defunct! Not sure if you saw the McClicky tear down post in McGizmo mods forum but I think it might be alright to post it here since it might be relevant to a newbie just getting edjumacated. If that's alright? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...icky-Switch-disassembly&p=4840001#post4840001

bartko09 · Feb 20, 2016

mcbrat said:
Yes, the McClicky can handle higher currents. I've had a dead short totally fry the surefire switches but the McClicky was still functional.

I've had a dead short fry a mcclicky and then I've also measured currents as high as 18-19 Amps which the McClicky stood up to. They're probably like everything else in china; depends on the day of the week it's made lol

mk2rocco · Feb 20, 2016

I love the feel of the stock switch but it will fry at 4A. This is why I need the McClicky

FPSRelic · Feb 23, 2016

Didn't Oveready at one stage sell a McClicky kit for e series lights?

mk2rocco · Feb 23, 2016

I know they made them for their E series triples.

skillet · Feb 25, 2016

Thanks for this informative post with such great visual identification!!

Is the new switch boot utilized or must the old boot be used?

jdboy · Feb 25, 2016

skillet said:
Thanks for this informative post with such great visual identification!!

Is the new switch boot utilized or must the old boot be used?

Old boot can be reused after the switch is replaced.

skillet · Feb 25, 2016

jdboy said:
Old boot can be reused after the switch is replaced.

I was wondering if it had to be used? Will it only work with old boot or can a new 14mm replacement be used?

I have a couple of E-series tail caps that need new switches and boots. So I need to source replacement boots as well. I have McClickies on the way as of this AM.

mk2rocco · Feb 25, 2016

skillet said:
I was wondering if it had to be used? Will it only work with old boot or can a new 14mm replacement be used?

I have a couple of E-series tail caps that need new switches and boots. So I need to source replacement boots as well. I have McClickies on the way as of this AM.

The finished picture of the tailcap is with a hardpress boot. Because factory boot is taller it's a little weird using it with a McClicky, you have too much dead space before engaging the switch.

Edit: It's not an issue with the factory boot, I just prefer a McClicky boot.

warubozu · Jun 3, 2016

What did you use to remove the plastic retaining ring on the back of the Z61 tailcap and did you have to apply heat to the cap in order to loosen the ring? This is my first attempt a disassembling a Z61 tailcap and don't to mess it up.

mk2rocco · Jun 3, 2016

warubozu said:
What did you use to remove the plastic retaining ring on the back of the Z61 tailcap and did you have to apply heat to the cap in order to loosen the ring? This is my first attempt a disassembling a Z61 tailcap and don't to mess it up.

Some are stubborn, heat may work. I haven't had to do that so far though.

warubozu · Jun 3, 2016

mk2rocco said:
Some are stubborn, heat may work. I haven't had to do that so far though.

Thanks for the tip, what did you use to insert into the two notches of the retaining ring to twist it loose? Someone mentioned to me pair tweezers or the ends of a snap ring plier works.

m4a1usr · Jun 3, 2016

warubozu said:
Thanks for the tip, what did you use to insert into the two notches of the retaining ring to twist it loose? Someone mentioned to me pair tweezers or the ends of a snap ring plier works.

Needle nose pliers work just fine. Snap ring pliers have rounded/ circular extensions where as needle nose pliers are only rounded on the outer surface/ flat on the inner. The will fit better down into the square cut retainer ring.

warubozu · Jun 3, 2016

m4a1usr said:
Needle nose pliers work just fine. Snap ring pliers have rounded/ circular extensions where as needle nose pliers are only rounded on the outer surface/ flat on the inner. The will fit better down into the square cut retainer ring.

Thanks again for the suggestion, just have to go and buy a set of thin needle nose pliers. By the way, this is an awesome how to thread.

E series McClicky install

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