Requesting info on Chevy Suburbans (calling DieselDave?)

avusblue

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2002
Messages
699
Location
Saint Paul, Minnesota
Hey Gang,

We are thinking of acquiring a used Chevy Suburban. I know DieselDave makes his living selling them, so I'll send him a PM asking if he'd mind chiming in on this thread. But I figured I might as well do a public post so others can comment too, and so the info is available to anyone else that might be interested.

So here goes with some questions:

1) Forums. Is there a good internet forum (like CPF) for Suburbans? I already own a Mazda Miata as a summer fun car, and there's a world class site for enthusiasts ( Miata.net). Even the Chrysler minivan that this vehicle would replace has a great site ( allpar.com). Suburban owners love their vehicles, so I gotta believe there's a decent fan site out there -- but googling and searching really didn't turn anything up. (and I did check out DieselDave's site, hoping the links would include a forum).

2) New vs. Old Body Style. Comments on the pro's and con's of the "new" (2000 and up) body Suburban:

002727-E.jpg


Versus the "classic" (thru 1999) Suburban:

001998-E.jpg


How much better is the new one, with respect to ride and handling, design and utility, and trouble spots? I like the new body style, principally because the spare tire is stored below the cargo bay instead of in it, and the new ones just look more modern. But as you'd expect, they are quite a bit more expensive.

3) Trouble Spots. Obvious question . . . what are the usual ones to watch out for? My dad has a 1999 Tahoe and from his experience, its a generally reliable vehicle. Anything this big and heavy will of course be hard on tires and brakes. He also says the 350 V8 in the "classic" body vehicles has a reputation for leaky intake manifold gaskets, resulting in coolant getting into the oil and potentially damaging the engine. How common is this scenario?

4) "First Year" Issues. One thing I do like about the new style Suburban is the availability of "quad" seating (with twin "captains chairs" in the middle row of seats instead of a bench.) This makes it easier for kids to get to the rearmost seats. In order to afford this, a 2000 model year may be the best compromise for us. But, I am leery of buying a GM car in its first year of production. What were the inevitable "teething pains" the 2000 models experienced that were worked out in subsequent model years?

5) Rear Doors. I prefer the "barn door" double rear cargo doors instead of the alternatives: a lift glass and tailgate combo on 1999 and older, or a hatchback with integrated liftglass on the 2000+ ones. Seems like the hatchback would require too much clear space behind the vehicle to open it in a normal size garage, and the rear cargo doors are easier to quickly open and shut when loading anyway. The drawbacks to the barn doors are the door frames in the rear view, and the lack of a wiper (which to me, don't seem too big a deal). Comments from those who've lived with one or the other? The hatchback seems more common than the barn doors on the newer Suburbans; and vice versa on the older ones. My dad's Tahoe has the barn doors and he likes 'em.

6) Any other points to consider? Again, normally I would have found a good forum, lurked, searched, and learned, and then asked more focused questions amongst the experts. But I couldn't locate that forum!!

Thanks to one and all,

Dave
 

DieselDave

Super Moderator,
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
2,703
Location
FL panhandle
I don't know of a Suburban forum.

Lots of pros and cons between a 99 and 00, the biggest one is cost. For $14k you get a super nice, 40k mile LT 99. For $18k you get a 70k mile LS 00. Certainly there are cheaper 00's out there but if they are nice, that's the money.

The newest ones are obviously the best and have the newest features like, Quad buckets, DVD, Autoride, XM radio, 17" wheels and so-on but we don't need to discuss that because it doesn't meet your criteria.

The best bang for the buck is the 99 and it's been that way since 00. I bought my wife a 99 model in 2001. It now has 140k miles and I don't plan on trading it anytime soon. Yes, I like the 00+ better but not for the cost difference on my budget. One of my Dad's Suburban's has 260k miles and it's still going strong. The motor on that one has never been opened.

The 99's need an alternator about every 50k miles. The battery cables usually need replacing at some point because the original battery corroded them when it leaked. The fuel pump will go out at about 80-120k miles and it's pricey, $800 for the job and parts. Expect a transmission at about 150-180k unless it was used for heavy towing. The seal on the rear doors needs to be lubed or it will leak. The intake leak is not all that common but it can happen. When you buy brake pads but the lifetime ones because they need replacing about every 25k miles. If leather, the edge of the drivers seat will eventually tear. IMO the 350 is the best V-8 ever produced and they made a zillion of them. If you somehow manage to blow a motor you can probably have it replaced for under $2,000.

00's ride a little better, (not much), are quieter, (not much) and look better. The lift gate is the way to go on the 00 and newer models. Never buy the tailgate version on a pre 00, they don't leak or anything but they are just a pain when getting things in and out. I'm not aware of first year issues but am sure they exist. The buckets in a 00+ are more comfortable than the 99 and back. The old body seats had very high side bolsters which were great until you sat in a 00+

I will probably go to new body in the next year or two but I am in no rush.

In your situation I would suggest you look for a 40-50k mille 99. It may be a little tough to find but it's out there.

Good luck
 

avusblue

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 26, 2002
Messages
699
Location
Saint Paul, Minnesota
DieselDave, thanks!

If I stretched my budget to $20K -- $22K range, would that change any of your answers?

Anyone else have one of these vehicles that has comments to share?

Cheers,

Dave
 

DieselDave

Super Moderator,
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
2,703
Location
FL panhandle
$22K will get you a nice 2001 with 40k miles in 2wd and 50k miles in 4wd.

Be sure to check the rear end ratio.
GU6: 3.42 Best for 2wd, not available in 4wd
GT4: 3.73 Best for 4wd
GT5: 4.10 Best if you will do a lot of heavy towing, fuel economy will suffer.

The codes are printed on the inside of the glove box and are in alphabetical order.
 
Top