MicroPuck :)

Over the weekend I built a simple (crude) drop-in module for mini-mags out of a micropuck and a spare R2H. It was pretty easy and I'm really impressed with the output - more than I would've thought given that the MP basically drives a 1w at spec.

Jon

Would you mind elaborating a little on how you made this module? Im new to all of this and was considering trying the micropuck.
Also you said it drives the 1w at spec
which is around 350 ma right?
I was told that you can overrun an 1 w up to 700ma.
What are the adverse affects of this or are there any if you provide adequate heatsinking?

Tim M.

I have a configuration like this in my mini mini mag. I had it in a 2AA mini mag but the way I constructed it, I was afraid it was going to melt the LS. Its one of my favorite lights. Coupled with a mag reflector sanded down to produce a nice tiny hotspot with excellent side spill and excellent throw.

First let me say that I didn't really do anything fancy and had I not purchased a number of the real things Dat2Zip's Sandwich Shoppe I wouldn't have had a clue... I would still recommend Dat2Zip's modules over these because they are more efficient and offer better output (plus they are built very well).

Anyway, I made it all by hand with a file and sandpaper, handheld drill, bench vise, a dremel tool with aliminum-oxide(?) grinding stone and a soldering iron.

Materials: R2H emitter, NIBCO 1" Copper Coupling, Micropuck, thermal adhesive, regular adhesive, solder

This is what I did:

1) Cut the coupling length-wise and flattened it to a sheet in a bench vise. (I'm too cheep to buy a whole sheet of copper!!!)

2) Cut, file and sand a copper disc from the sheet such that it just barely fits into a mini-mag. Cut a smaller 1/4" round disc from the same sheet.

3) Cut the MP's -in wire to about 5/8" and very carefully solder it to the heatsink.

4) Glue the top of the Micropuck (where the label is) to the bottom of the copper heatsink.

5) Cut the MP's +in wire to about 3/8", solder it to the very small copper slug and then glue it copper-side-out to the bottom of the MP.

6) Attach the emitter to the top of the heatsink with Arctic Alumina Adhesive.

7) Guide the MP's LED- and LED+ wires through pre-drilled holes in the heatsink (oops, forgot to mention those), trim them to length and solder them to the emitter.

The final product looks very crude (I made mine in a very cold garage with a limited set of tools) but seems to work just fine. It's really not in the same league as the work done by the master modders on this forum and its Japanese counterpart, but it was a fun project.

Yes, 1w stars are spec'ed at around 350ma, maybe a bit higher. As far as driving a 1w at 700ma, it's possible and it's been done many, many times. Dat2Zip offers a couple of sandwiches that will easily hit that number.

If you were going to use MicroPucks to achieve 700ma you'd need two in parallel. But, for a minimag module it's not feasible because there isn't enough room to fit everything in there...

Finally, the heatsink on my module should be more than adequate. Good heatsinking for a 1w (or Lux3) at 700+ma is a lot more important...

Jon

You know what this thread needs... a healthy dose of PICS!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I can post a few later tonight, but I warn you, they won't be pretty. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

I didn't take any pictures during the build process. I don't have another MP or emitter or I could just make a second one and document the process then.

Jon

[ QUOTE ]
Mark_Larson said:
You know what this thread needs... a healthy dose of PICS!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

OK, just remember - I warned you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Actually this would've turned out much better had I not used a gel super glue for the adhesive. Next time it will be a nice, clear 2-ton epoxy.

My new EDC: /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Here's a close up of the same side...

And here's the side with the emitters positive lead. Notice how nasty super glue looks when it dries... A little to the left of where the orange wire pokes through the heatsink is a grey dot - that's a third hole into which I soldered the MP's ground wire.

Emitter's negative lead and the MP's LED- wire. Again, a fair amount of nasty superglue...

Finally, the underside of the module. The small copper slug serves as the anode contact and actually sits flush with the bend in the ground, LED+ and LED+ wires that arc over the corners of the MP.

I think I may order a few more MP's and emitters and see if I can't make a cleaner one...

Jon

Wow, looks nice
glad the super glue does not get into the led.

Btw, i just found out that the black and the green cable works as ground and they are basically connected to the same terminal. So cutting one would be practically fine, i think /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I was very careful with the superglue but still managed to overdue it. I used the gel because it was easier to work with than the liquid version. I should've used epoxy though...

I'm still learning. The tip of the iron hit the emitter's dome once or twice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif but there was already a small bubble or occlusion of some sort in the dome so I didn't mind expirementing with it. Next time I will use a good R2H or maybe a "J" Vf Lux3.

Anyway, thanks for the kind words. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jon

Dang that's tiny...

Awesome but TINY. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

oO