How bad is a V0 color bin?
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ufokillerz
Enlightened
it is very white, i have a tvok based PR-T and its very white, dont notice any green and whiter then any R2H mod i have.
It's white. Most of the Lux3s are all white with very little color tints. The more harder you drive them, the whiter they get.
I have a TV0K in a Mag3C DD and there's no hint of green or yellow at all, even when the batts are low. I had a TV1K, which should have been greener than a TV0K, running at 700ma and I saw now green at all. Just a tiny bit of yellow but not easily seen, when next to a TW0K but very very white. I also did a TV1K in a Mag3D DD and there's no hint of green or yellow at all either. It's as white as my TV0K.
My FT-3C has a TV1J and it's also white as can be with no visable tint until the batts get down to 700ma. Then you can see just a bit of yellow around the "hotspot". I'm assuming that's because it uses an optics rather than a reflector
I have a TV0K in a Mag3C DD and there's no hint of green or yellow at all, even when the batts are low. I had a TV1K, which should have been greener than a TV0K, running at 700ma and I saw now green at all. Just a tiny bit of yellow but not easily seen, when next to a TW0K but very very white. I also did a TV1K in a Mag3D DD and there's no hint of green or yellow at all either. It's as white as my TV0K.
My FT-3C has a TV1J and it's also white as can be with no visable tint until the batts get down to 700ma. Then you can see just a bit of yellow around the "hotspot". I'm assuming that's because it uses an optics rather than a reflector
kakster
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's likely that the tint will vary even within the same bin. Lumileds are supposed to have improved the grading process, but its highly unlikely that each luxeon from a particular bin will be exactly the same. I guess the only answer is to suck it and see. And report your findings back here, so the next person to ask this question will have something to refer to /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
kj
Enlightened
Yes, the tint varies even in the same bin and I actually saw a certain variation in V1. In comparison to V1, V0 should be more consistant and whiter. V0 can be warm white, but is not assumed to have the green tint.
kakster
Flashlight Enthusiast
MFTD : If you are referring to dat2zips 5 watters, i have a few ordered, and will only be too happy report my findings here on this thread when i get the chance. But my advice wouldbe to jump on them while theyre still there, i havent seen any binned 5 watters for sale anywhere else for months now.
illumiGeek
Enlightened
V0 or V1 would not be green. Green would be X0 or X1 bins (blue-green, yellow-green).
If there is any tint visible at all, V0/V1 would be slightly warm (V0, yellow-orange; V1, yellow). Note that V1 bin is supposed to be 5500K, which is the color temperature that photographers consider "daylight" white. Either of the V color bins should be very nice.
If there is any tint visible at all, V0/V1 would be slightly warm (V0, yellow-orange; V1, yellow). Note that V1 bin is supposed to be 5500K, which is the color temperature that photographers consider "daylight" white. Either of the V color bins should be very nice.
vcal
Flashlight Enthusiast
The tint of the VO that I have just barely leans towards the warm side. Colored objects in the dark look rich and full.
-White as new snow, compared to any of the many dozens of light sources that I can find to compare it with.
Much whiter than a fluorescent "cool white", for instance.
-White as new snow, compared to any of the many dozens of light sources that I can find to compare it with.
Much whiter than a fluorescent "cool white", for instance.
After seeing some various bins in person installed in lights, I am actually leaning towards the Y's and X's, in this order:
Y's, W's, then X's.
Reason is the SYAKs and TYOKs I have hoarded for upcoming projects produce a slightly blue-tinged super white coloring, preferable (to my eyes) to the "warms". In fact side by side, the SYAK's are "whiter" than the SWAK's due to the hint of bluish light, and this does make them appear brighter, especially in my anecdotal experience of every day use (rather than shining at blank walls). Personally V's would be my last choice.
All of this opinionated rambling above is tempered with the qualifying statement that every Lux3 I have seen in person is miles ahead colorwise when compared to the old-style batwings with their thick, imprecise phosphor gooping processes formerly used.
We live in good (LED) times, indeed.
Y's, W's, then X's.
Reason is the SYAKs and TYOKs I have hoarded for upcoming projects produce a slightly blue-tinged super white coloring, preferable (to my eyes) to the "warms". In fact side by side, the SYAK's are "whiter" than the SWAK's due to the hint of bluish light, and this does make them appear brighter, especially in my anecdotal experience of every day use (rather than shining at blank walls). Personally V's would be my last choice.
All of this opinionated rambling above is tempered with the qualifying statement that every Lux3 I have seen in person is miles ahead colorwise when compared to the old-style batwings with their thick, imprecise phosphor gooping processes formerly used.
We live in good (LED) times, indeed.
Got my VV0U, put it into a 2D mag.
Observations:
1) With identical batteries, swapping back and forth with another 5W (V3T) in a 2D mag, the VV0U was using more current than the V3T, even though it's supposed to have a higher Vf (and thus, lower current). I will measure Vf when I get home tonight, as I didn't get around to that.
2) The color makes my V3T (which was my benchmark for white) look slightly greenish /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif. The VV0U has a slight blue hint to it. Just eyeballing it, it looks to be the same brightness.
Observations:
1) With identical batteries, swapping back and forth with another 5W (V3T) in a 2D mag, the VV0U was using more current than the V3T, even though it's supposed to have a higher Vf (and thus, lower current). I will measure Vf when I get home tonight, as I didn't get around to that.
2) The color makes my V3T (which was my benchmark for white) look slightly greenish /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif. The VV0U has a slight blue hint to it. Just eyeballing it, it looks to be the same brightness.
Measured the Vf of the VV0U vs. A V3T (which, by Vf binning, is supposed to have a lower Vf)
Observe:
<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>
I(ma) V3T VV0U
0.1 4.94 4.94
30 5.65 5.67
130 6.04 6.04
310 6.38 6.34
620 6.73 6.64
750 6.84 6.73
1060 7.09 6.92
</pre><hr />
This luxeon clearly falls in the T-bin for Vf.
Does anyone else that hase one of these VV0U's from Dat2Zip care to measure the Vf of theirs over a range of current?
Observe:
<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>
I(ma) V3T VV0U
0.1 4.94 4.94
30 5.65 5.67
130 6.04 6.04
310 6.38 6.34
620 6.73 6.64
750 6.84 6.73
1060 7.09 6.92
</pre><hr />
This luxeon clearly falls in the T-bin for Vf.
Does anyone else that hase one of these VV0U's from Dat2Zip care to measure the Vf of theirs over a range of current?
[ QUOTE ]
evan9162 said:
Measured the Vf of the VV0U vs. A V3T (which, by Vf binning, is supposed to have a lower Vf)
Observe:
<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>
I(ma) V3T VV0U
0.1 4.94 4.94
30 5.65 5.67
130 6.04 6.04
310 6.38 6.34
620 6.73 6.64
750 6.84 6.73
1060 7.09 6.92
</pre><hr />
This luxeon clearly falls in the T-bin for Vf.
Does anyone else that hase one of these VV0U's from Dat2Zip care to measure the Vf of theirs over a range of current?
[/ QUOTE ]
what! I hope that was just a lucky one that you got. I was planning on DD'n my VV0U on 3x123s. DD'n T bins on 3x123 aren't very safe, correct?
evan9162 said:
Measured the Vf of the VV0U vs. A V3T (which, by Vf binning, is supposed to have a lower Vf)
Observe:
<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>
I(ma) V3T VV0U
0.1 4.94 4.94
30 5.65 5.67
130 6.04 6.04
310 6.38 6.34
620 6.73 6.64
750 6.84 6.73
1060 7.09 6.92
</pre><hr />
This luxeon clearly falls in the T-bin for Vf.
Does anyone else that hase one of these VV0U's from Dat2Zip care to measure the Vf of theirs over a range of current?
[/ QUOTE ]
what! I hope that was just a lucky one that you got. I was planning on DD'n my VV0U on 3x123s. DD'n T bins on 3x123 aren't very safe, correct?
kakster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Belated update...
Finally got round to putting one of these in a PRT. Driven with a BB700, its very white, with a creamy faintly greenish tinge. You would not notice the tint unless you were comparing several 5 watters back to back. I think under the old binning system, these would have been classed as 3s.
Finally got round to putting one of these in a PRT. Driven with a BB700, its very white, with a creamy faintly greenish tinge. You would not notice the tint unless you were comparing several 5 watters back to back. I think under the old binning system, these would have been classed as 3s.
I've got my VV0U in a McLux 3x123 DD and it's color out put is very white. I'm happy with it.
When compared to other Luxeons, I guess you can say it's very slightly on the warm side but not by much. By itself, it doesn't appear warm at all to my eyes. I only see a little green in the "black hole" when the beam is defocused. When in focus, I won't see green at all. I guess either the warm tint is less noticable at higher currents/brightness or I got lottery winner.
I've got a beamshot here but being next to a V2T the VV0U appears a bit on the cool side.
When compared to other Luxeons, I guess you can say it's very slightly on the warm side but not by much. By itself, it doesn't appear warm at all to my eyes. I only see a little green in the "black hole" when the beam is defocused. When in focus, I won't see green at all. I guess either the warm tint is less noticable at higher currents/brightness or I got lottery winner.
I've got a beamshot here but being next to a V2T the VV0U appears a bit on the cool side.
