Help a noob build the perfect Surefire EDC light...

I'm new here but not new to being a light nut. I bought my first "serious light," a Surefire G2 about 15 years ago. I currently have a dozen Surefire handhelds, 6 Surefire weaponlights, a handful of Streamlights and a Fenix or two.

I'm looking to build the perfect (for me) light and looking for some advice from the wisdom and knowledge on this forum. It's going to be based on the Surefire E series family as I have found Surefire's quality, reliability and US manufacturing to be worth the cost.

Basically, I want to combine my favorite features from a few different models to get what I want but sadly Surefire doesn't offer in an OEM configuration.

-Compact body housing 1xCR123A cell
-Reversed bezel down clip as found on the E1B, etc.
-Single mode, high only LED around 300 lumens
-Old style Executive tailcap with no guard around the button
-No sharp edges or crenulated anything
-All factory Surefire parts

Currently, my plan is to buy an M300C for the head, an E1D for the body and use the tailcap from an old E2e I retired years ago. I'd then sell the leftovers from the E1D and mini scout for parts.

Mainly, I guess I'm looking for suggestions for the most economical way to do this. Is there anything I should do different than what I've described?

It's a shame Surefire doesn't offer single mode lights for carry. Kyle Lamb has the right idea with his VTac collaborations but the mini version is in desperate need of being updated.

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

Wait for it. ..
(I'd chime in with mostly useless noise but there are some SF guys that know what's what, as soon as they find this. .. maybe repost with Surefire in the header, or try also posting in the manufacturers forums down lower on the main forum page. )

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

Duplicate post

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

eh4 said:

Wait for it. ..
(I'd chime in with mostly useless noise but there are some SF guys that know what's what, as soon as they find this. .. maybe repost with Surefire in the header, or try also posting in the manufacturers forums down lower on the main forum page. )

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I didn't see a Surefire section in the manufacturers forum. Am I missing that somehow?

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

Sounds like you want a E series Lego. Search that here. There is some older info out there. But things haven't changed Too Much. But they have a little. So read up and ask questions. Here are some sample threads. There are so many options it can be confusing. I have been doing E legos for years, and still learn something all the time. There are slight changes and variations. Also, there some nice custom parts floating around.
I suggest using a TNT single drop in with Dr Jones Driver. In the older style E head. It is fully programmable to basically anything you want.
I would use a BackUP single body that has the two way clip. Keep in mind, this body uses a slightly different tail cap. So you may need a spacer in some lego jobs.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...lding-a-small-custom-E-series-lego-flashlight
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-E-series-compatible-parts-info-thread-(2013)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?170804-Surefire-Lego
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?64308-FAQ-E-Series-Compatible-Parts (older info here)

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

Str8stroke said:

Sounds like you want a E series Lego. Search that here. There is some older info out there. But things haven't changed Too Much. But they have a little. So read up and ask questions. Here are some sample threads. There are so many options it can be confusing. I have been doing E legos for years, and still learn something all the time. There are slight changes and variations. Also, there some nice custom parts floating around.
I suggest using a TNT single drop in with Dr Jones Driver. In the older style E head. It is fully programmable to basically anything you want.
I would use a BackUP single body that has the two way clip. Keep in mind, this body uses a slightly different tail cap. So you may need a spacer in some lego jobs.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...lding-a-small-custom-E-series-lego-flashlight
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-E-series-compatible-parts-info-thread-(2013)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?170804-Surefire-Lego
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?64308-FAQ-E-Series-Compatible-Parts (older info here)

Click to expand...

Any reason to use the E1B body instead of the D? From what I can tell the D will use the tail cap I want with no spacer.

Re: Help a noob build the perfect EDC light...

The E2E had a momentary/twist for constant tailcap, didn't it?

If that's the case, then I'd try an old EB1 with the Tactical tailcap (still in stock several places for ~$150), and a new 300 lumen EB1 head.

It'll be dual output, but it's a progressive cap, so you can press right through the low mode, and still twist for the constant.

Although, FWIW, I carried a 300 lumen E1D for some time, and now I carry a 200 lumen EB1. I don't necessarily miss the extra 100 lumens.

You could try the new 300 lumen Eb1. It seems to be what you want except it's dual mode, but comes on in high mode.

Other than that option you would pretty much need to go about it the way you described.

I've got a 2 mode 200 lumen E2D LED now but I find the 5 lumen mode a nuisance. I just want high mode every time no matter how often, how long or how hard I press the cap. I really like light press for momentary/full click for constant of the original E series lights.

I do like Streamlights 10 tsp programmable lights but their build quality/durability isn't as good (and really shouldn't be for the price difference.)

The outgoing eb1 on an e1l body does single mode only. I have the tactical version of the eb1 that inebriated alluded to in his post that I put the head on my e1l clicky body and it only give max output with that combo since the eb1 tactical has the press thru switch. The head thinks you are pressing all the way as the clicky only has one click rather then a short press and long press. Cheapest solution would be purchase an eb1 as you can get to high by a full press. The 200 lumen model throws further than the 300 lumen model, most likely, as it appears surefire rates the new model at 9000 candela versus the 200 lumen is more like 12000 candela. Hope that helps.

So, an EB1 tactical head used with a click switch will do high only, but I can't use a click switch on the EB1 body, correct?