P60L in a G2

Thirteen years ago I bought my dad an OD green Surefire G2. He was amazed by its brightness and durability and retired the old 4D mag lite he'd carried around forever. I'd like to upgrade his light to an LED and was thinking about buying a P60L after finding some NOS on clearance at a local store.

Ive heard before that you shouldn't use an LED drop in in a G2 without replacing the bezel with a metal one. I can see that might be an issue if you were using an aftermarket drop in 3-400 lumen LED but I can't imagine it would be a problem with the 80 lumen P60L?

I've got an early 6P LED and that thing runs cooler than the other side of the pillow. In fact, I've had it cranked on constant for the last 15 minutes and its not the least bit warm to the touch.

Anyone run a P60L in a factory G2 head? Any issues?

I have G2 with a 125+/- lumen Malkoff M61 neutral, low that doesn't get warm enough to cause issues.

You are correct that an 80 lumen LED made by SureFire should be ok with the light as is.

I'll add...good score on the P60L.

bykfixer said:

I have G2 with a 125+/- lumen Malkoff M61 neutral, low that doesn't get warm enough to cause issues.

You are correct that an 80 lumen LED made by SureFire should be ok with the light as is.

I'll add...good score on the P60L.

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Awesome. Thanks!

Treat your pops to a Malkoff. :rock:

Triburst1 said:

Awesome. Thanks!

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Thought this might confirm any thoughts it'll be ok...


^^ there was a 120 lumen LED version once upon a time.

The 120 lumens version of the G2 had an aluminium head with a fixed LED dropin in it. This special head was also seperately available. The P60L dropin is by the way a really great floody dropin. I have a lot of this dropins, and I really like it even if I have a few Malkoffs and Oveready dropins...

It should be ok to use in the G2, but keep in mind that the P60L does not have much of an ability to draw heat away from the LED itself. Ideally, an aluminum light should feel warm to the tough after it has been running for a while... that means that the heat generated by the emitter is being pulled away from it and into the light where it can be dissipated. That is why Malkoffs work so well, because the large brass construction acts as an effective heat sink.

There were quite a few P60Ls that cooked their emitters from constant on use, in a G2 with Nitrolon head.
That's why SF developed the KX4 (120 lumen sealed head unit).

The KX4 is not immune to problems though, I managed to cook the LED while using a 17670 cell for close to an hour of continuous use.
I was bummed that at that lower voltage and lower output, the LED still cooked, leaving a dark brown spot in the center of the phosphor.

RobertMM said:

There were quite a few P60Ls that cooked their emitters from constant on use, in a G2 with Nitrolon head.
That's why SF developed the KX4 (120 lumen sealed head unit).

The KX4 is not immune to problems though, I managed to cook the LED while using a 17670 cell for close to an hour of continuous use.
I was bummed that at that lower voltage and lower output, the LED still cooked, leaving a dark brown spot in the center of the phosphor.

Click to expand...

That's why I like the D26 drop ins from Lumens Factory. One can get them in a triple mode configuration that allows bright enough use without cooking the emitter by running on high all the time. Another good drop in is the CUXM/CUXP from Mountain Electronics. For a G2 I would get the Nichia 219B emitter option. Lower maximum lumens, and the beam and tint are beautiful. The only drawback is that the Mountain Electronics drop in is for one Li-Ion cell only.

Triburst1 said:

Thirteen years ago I bought my dad an OD green Surefire G2. He was amazed by its brightness and durability and retired the old 4D mag lite he'd carried around forever. I'd like to upgrade his light to an LED and was thinking about buying a P60L after finding some NOS on clearance at a local store.

Ive heard before that you shouldn't use an LED drop in in a G2 without replacing the bezel with a metal one. I can see that might be an issue if you were using an aftermarket drop in 3-400 lumen LED but I can't imagine it would be a problem with the 80 lumen P60L?

I've got an early 6P LED and that thing runs cooler than the other side of the pillow. In fact, I've had it cranked on constant for the last 15 minutes and its not the least bit warm to the touch.

Anyone run a P60L in a factory G2 head? Any issues?

Click to expand...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?172348-Surefire-G2L-owners&highlight=SureFire+G2L

Here's something to chew on tri burst.
A bit of G2L history from a resident expert (post #4)

I ran one in a G2 for a short time aka a few weeks of use then in a G2Z with plastic bezel before changing that out with Al. It didn't die. I remember some run time charts showing the P60L had thermoregulation resulting in a lower output running regulated longer in plastic. Some really hated the P60L or maybe found it to be a disappointment. Not as bright as some Fenix LED lights (I think the market had the XR-E P bin or maybe Q3-4 available but SF didn't use that. Why? We may never know unless I am wrong) and had a space alien blue tint but I didn't mind it however was replaced at the time with a M60LL which wasn't as bright but had much much better runtime characteristics. Even after years that drop-'in can somehow hold it's own today. My P60L lives in a SF 6XCR123 battery holder as a backup. I trust it will operate if an engine change is needed on the fly.

Throw a Malkoff L or LL in it, as they were made for the G series (and for longer run times, of course).

As to the P60L, trust me when I tell you, do NOT waste your time or money, they are awful.

If you don't believe me run a search here.

I had purchased a number of 6PL's, and gave away (not to friends) all of the P60L's due to the fact that what SF said they would do in run time was a complete lie, and was the first time I had a problem with lights that I had bought from SF.

The good part was it lead me to find Malkoff.

Woods Walker said:

I ran one in a G2 for a short time aka a few weeks of use then in a G2Z with plastic bezel before changing that out with Al. It didn't die. I remember some run time charts showing the P60L had thermoregulation resulting in a lower output running regulated longer in plastic. Some really hated the P60L or maybe found it to be a disappointment. Not as bright as some Fenix LED lights (I think the market had the XR-E P bin or maybe Q3-4 available but SF didn't use that. Why? We may never know unless I am wrong) and had a space alien blue tint but I didn't mind it however was replaced at the time with a M60LL which wasn't as bright but had much much better runtime characteristics. Even after years that drop-'in can somehow hold it's own today. My P60L lives in a SF 6XCR123 battery holder as a backup. I trust it will operate if on engine change is needed on the fly.

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Again...the voice of reason.

Thank you.

RWT1405 said:

Throw a Malkoff L or LL in it, as they were made for the G series (and for longer run times, of course).

As to the P60L, trust me when I tell you, do NOT waste your time or money, they are awful.

If you don't believe me run a search here.

Click to expand...

I concur. I have an older Surefire that once had that module and while it was maybe not stuff in 2007 it's not competitive at all today. The tint is poor and the output isn't very good. No knock on Surefire- remember, LED has come a long way since then. I also agree that you can't go wrong with a Malkoff! Great stuff. I think anything in the "L" or lower range should be okay.

Gosh thanks bykfixer. I am humbled. Here are some photos from back in 2008.











Over the years what has changed? Pentagonlight was bankrupted by a SF lawsuit so those batteries inside the holder are no longer available. The SF red filter broke for no good reason. I should call and see if anything can be done about that? The G2Z now has an AL bezel and M61NL which I believe is the newer "sweet spot" malkoff drop-in loved by CPF replacing the venerable M60LL which now lives in the G2. It would be hard to debate the wisdom of the community on this. They are fantastic! That 6xCR123 holder is still alive has real SF CR 123 batteries and as stated the P60L which replaced the standard P60 for backup use.

Woods Walker said:

Gosh thanks bykfixer. I am humbled. Here are some photos from back in 2008.

Over the years what has changed? Pentagonlight was bankrupted by a SF lawsuit so those batteries inside the holder are no longer available. The SF red filter broke for no good reason. I should call and see if anything can be done about that? The G2Z now has an AL bezel and M61NL which I believe is the newer "sweet spot" malkoff drop-in loved by CPF replacing the venerable M60LL which now lives in the G2. It would be hard to debate the wisdom of the community on this. They are fantastic! That 6xCR123 holder is still alive has real SF CR 123 batteries and as stated the P60L which replaced the standard P60 for backup use.

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You kept it simple and on topic answering the original posters request for information.... as usual.

We all tend to slide some our favorite gear and why.
But op stated he already has a P60L in hopes of refreshing his pops old faithful.

Good on you Triburst.
Now if you guys end up not liking the upgrade to P60L, that Malkoff M61 NL is very popular in G2 lights for good reason. Doesn't get too hot to cook the module, has a pleasant color to the beam, is a bit brighter than a P60L and runtime is 5 hours on regular batteries with several hours of dimming after that.

Please report back your impressions using that P60L.

Edit: I had a P60L show up and yeah... it's floody. Not one of your high end CRI type, but pretty nice for the time period it was made. I saw a gray beam that could be seen as blue by some. But it aint the screaming meany blue like so many of that era.
At least mine aint. It'll make a fine backup to an Elzetta Alpha.