Adding Tritium Viles (Overready Surefire C2)

Hello flashlight community. Purchased a few months back an Overready flashlight. Great light. Recently I bought a bezel ring that has three slots ready for 1.5 x 5mm tritium viles. I purchased the viles and an installation kit from members in this community.

http://www.oveready.com/images/uploads/USAtritBlack.jpg

Question:

After studying the threads on installing these viles my trit slots seem to be different. I have a hole in the center of the slot. The hole is machined smaller than the opening so the vile is able to rest on each end.

My plan is to place a small dab of Norland 61 on each end of the slot then place the vile in the glue. Hopefully it'll be sunny so It'll cure.

The light produces 3500 lumens and gets very hot quickly on that setting. I'm a little concerned the Norland will melt and release the viles.

Thanks in advance for any advice or comments.

Hi chicago989,

I have the same bezel you are referring to. Nope, your bezel is not different - they were manufactured to have 2 visible windows. One visible from outside and one from the inside.

When installing, just place the trit as in the top photo, drop in the Norland (Using an insulin syringe or small volume syringe gives mire control) through the outer(bigger) window. The Norland will cover the vial at both windows. No need to apply from inner side of the bezel.

Here are a couple of my old photos. You can see the trit glow from the inner window at the bottom of the second photo.




Regarding the heat stability of Norland 61, according to the info sheet "As a coating on the surface of a substrate the NOA 61 can withstand 260° C for three hours and during reflow soldering."

Properly cured, you absolutely cannot get Norland61 hot enough for it to fail in any sort of usage. I've got a ring of trits in a titanium triple that also makes 3000+ lumens. It got hot enough one day to melt its optic, but the Norland and trits held fine. $2 later for a replacement Carclo and its right back in service. I think your head would get hot enough to melt its solder joints and fail before your Norland would melt.

Personally I'd never try to mount trits without a UV light. When I do it, I orient the light so that gravity will hold a drop of Noa61 where I want it, place the tube in and blast it with UV. Noa61 is kinda sticky but it will run pretty quickly. With a good UV light it takes about 8 seconds to set, way too fast for any running. Then I flip the light over and secure the other end of the tube with Noa (or completely encase it, whatever the job calls for).

Thanks. Wow this is great. Thanks for adding pictures and a great description. This eliminates a lot of questions I had.

emarkd and jonwkng,

What UV lights do you both use/recommend?

Thanks!

chicago989 said:

emarkd and jonwkng,

What UV lights do you both use/recommend?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Any 365nm UV emitter would do the job (Norland 61 has maximal absorption from 320-380nm, peak at 365nm). Remember to use eye protection. I'm usually using my StreamLight NightCom UV, though I sometimes use my NiteCore CU6 if there's a large volume to set. Pre-cure and full cure times depend on the energy output of your UV source and distance from said emitter.

Thanks!