Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
What makes a durable and dependable LED flashlight?. Is it mass? Is is run times? Is it based on a brand name? Is it listed specs? Is it quality control? Is it how much you paid? User serviceable at home or in the field? Battery type? To be honest I don't know on a scientific and statistical level what characteristics makes one light more durable and dependable than another. Durability IMHO isn't totally interchangeable with dependability. I had lights which looked perfect. The construction seemed robust just die for no good reason. The best anodizing and robust build doesn't always translate into dependablity. By the same token a dependable flashlight, one which works every time might not be the most durable in terms of drop, crush and water resistance.
I am going is post some of my most durable and dependable lights starting this one then over time will update this thread with more. I welcome the readers to contribute what they believe are their most durable and dependable LED flashlights.
One of my most durable and dependable flashlights IMHO.
Pre-lockout tailcap G2 and M60LL.
Each part is user serviceable. It can use a wide voltage range so 2x CR123, 1X lithium ion are good (never tried 3 XCR123 OR 2X lithium ion but should be good underload), here I have some older CR123 primaries. This battery type has both pros and a cons. Very expensive to purchase in most supermarkets and drug stores but are UL, extremely cold resistant and have a long shelf life. Cheaper when acquired online and lithium ion offers guilt free lumens.
Ok so the body is plastic but has a metal tube liner and it's very low mass. Low mass means less drop impact IMHO however less heat sink for the LED and maybe less crush resistance. Odds are drops not elephants are more probably.
Let's take a look at the engine. The M60LL is aging in terms of technology with its XRE Q5 emitter and single mode. No question the LED is older but to me the single mode means less things to go wrong. Also Malkoffs are fairly efficient with a good regulated runtime followed by a long taper as the batteries run down. I guess this is around 60+ lumens regulated for 8-10 hours with long taper. Again not the brightest or most modern but that's not really the topic. The lower output of the LL helps mitigate the heat transfer issues of a plastic body. The same applies today with the more modern M61LL.
Potted electronics for increased drop resistance. Also that spring means there is a spring on both ends of the battery. No expert but think that offers some shock absorption in case of a drop or if mounted on a weapon. No battery smacking directly on the board. Just speculation on my part as never did any drop tests etc though this light has been dropped over the years. The heavy brass construction of the drop-in should offer a good heat sink for the LED though aluminum is probably better at heat transfer. What's more important? More mass right next to the LED or a less massive metal with better thermal transfer properties? Don't know but it works and never failed. That's what we are talking about. Working beats failure.
But here is the biggest pro of this older engine. That's right. It's totally sealed and waterproof. So not only are the electronics themselves protected from drops but waterproof in their own right, never mind the flashlight o-rings and window.
That means the light can run flooded as shown here in a video of M60 operating flooded underwater. Not the same light but the drop-in is of the same type. This person actually used the flashlight o-rings to trap the water in. LOL! So we clearly have water resistance wrapped up. As of this date that same maker has some of the older sealed Malkoff M60s still available. Is aging technology worth the cost given what's available today? Hard to say but the engine is waterproof and if ye don't tell the dark it's being beaten back by an older LED it won't get angry.
Moving on to the window. I believe these are Lexan.
It will get scratched easier than glass but this is my second window in over 10 years. They're easily replaceable and could do this in the field. To be honest the first one I replaced was done for cosmetic reasons as really didn't notice an increase in output once the Lexan window was replaced which took all of 30 seconds. I don't think it would easily shatter not that this ever happened to my glass windows on other SF lights. Those also got scratched up with use so what the heck. LOL! Keep in mind the window is really redundant given the engine has it's own. Not sure which is overall more durable. Plastic or glass? Then again which is worse? Dropping a plastic soda bottle or jar of pickles on a rock?
Yup. A person can see through clear plastic.
The tail cap is a twisty. Here are all the parts removed. In fact they just fall out if the tail is removed. This could be both a pro and con in terms of durability and dependablity.
Clearly there isn't much to it and within this topic less is often more. But as stated entropy is the enemy and it's conceivable to accidentally drop this part into the leaf litter or snow if doing a battery change under stress. That wouldn't happen with the lockout tail caps or most clicky switches. However there is no retaining ring etc etc to shift during use. No little parts to magically break. No mystery electronic switch UI to screw up either. What if somehow the guts should vanish or break.
A tail cap bypass is an easy test to see if the switch is part of the problem with lights which have failed the dependablity factor however this trick also allows for an easy fix. I often carry aluminum foil as part of my kit for various reasons this being one. Yes it is flaky, no question about that but does work. Loose then tailcap and often it will go out, tighten the light goes back on. A little shake is sometimes required but not always needed. Clearly I would remove the foil plug when the light wasn't in immediate use plus duct tape could replace the outer cap if that was MIA. Field and home serviceability.
On.
A bit of twisting it goes off. Again it's not perfect but the field expedient fix took all of 3 seconds to do. I don't know if there are any dangers to doing this. There are other ways to do the tail cap bypass as well but this is a tail cap temporary replacement. Basically if your light somehow catches fire don't complain to me.
Off.
That's my first light which I believe is both durable and dependable. Will add more and hope to see yours!
I am going is post some of my most durable and dependable lights starting this one then over time will update this thread with more. I welcome the readers to contribute what they believe are their most durable and dependable LED flashlights.
One of my most durable and dependable flashlights IMHO.
Pre-lockout tailcap G2 and M60LL.
Each part is user serviceable. It can use a wide voltage range so 2x CR123, 1X lithium ion are good (never tried 3 XCR123 OR 2X lithium ion but should be good underload), here I have some older CR123 primaries. This battery type has both pros and a cons. Very expensive to purchase in most supermarkets and drug stores but are UL, extremely cold resistant and have a long shelf life. Cheaper when acquired online and lithium ion offers guilt free lumens.
Ok so the body is plastic but has a metal tube liner and it's very low mass. Low mass means less drop impact IMHO however less heat sink for the LED and maybe less crush resistance. Odds are drops not elephants are more probably.
Let's take a look at the engine. The M60LL is aging in terms of technology with its XRE Q5 emitter and single mode. No question the LED is older but to me the single mode means less things to go wrong. Also Malkoffs are fairly efficient with a good regulated runtime followed by a long taper as the batteries run down. I guess this is around 60+ lumens regulated for 8-10 hours with long taper. Again not the brightest or most modern but that's not really the topic. The lower output of the LL helps mitigate the heat transfer issues of a plastic body. The same applies today with the more modern M61LL.
Potted electronics for increased drop resistance. Also that spring means there is a spring on both ends of the battery. No expert but think that offers some shock absorption in case of a drop or if mounted on a weapon. No battery smacking directly on the board. Just speculation on my part as never did any drop tests etc though this light has been dropped over the years. The heavy brass construction of the drop-in should offer a good heat sink for the LED though aluminum is probably better at heat transfer. What's more important? More mass right next to the LED or a less massive metal with better thermal transfer properties? Don't know but it works and never failed. That's what we are talking about. Working beats failure.
But here is the biggest pro of this older engine. That's right. It's totally sealed and waterproof. So not only are the electronics themselves protected from drops but waterproof in their own right, never mind the flashlight o-rings and window.
That means the light can run flooded as shown here in a video of M60 operating flooded underwater. Not the same light but the drop-in is of the same type. This person actually used the flashlight o-rings to trap the water in. LOL! So we clearly have water resistance wrapped up. As of this date that same maker has some of the older sealed Malkoff M60s still available. Is aging technology worth the cost given what's available today? Hard to say but the engine is waterproof and if ye don't tell the dark it's being beaten back by an older LED it won't get angry.
Moving on to the window. I believe these are Lexan.
It will get scratched easier than glass but this is my second window in over 10 years. They're easily replaceable and could do this in the field. To be honest the first one I replaced was done for cosmetic reasons as really didn't notice an increase in output once the Lexan window was replaced which took all of 30 seconds. I don't think it would easily shatter not that this ever happened to my glass windows on other SF lights. Those also got scratched up with use so what the heck. LOL! Keep in mind the window is really redundant given the engine has it's own. Not sure which is overall more durable. Plastic or glass? Then again which is worse? Dropping a plastic soda bottle or jar of pickles on a rock?
Yup. A person can see through clear plastic.
The tail cap is a twisty. Here are all the parts removed. In fact they just fall out if the tail is removed. This could be both a pro and con in terms of durability and dependablity.
Clearly there isn't much to it and within this topic less is often more. But as stated entropy is the enemy and it's conceivable to accidentally drop this part into the leaf litter or snow if doing a battery change under stress. That wouldn't happen with the lockout tail caps or most clicky switches. However there is no retaining ring etc etc to shift during use. No little parts to magically break. No mystery electronic switch UI to screw up either. What if somehow the guts should vanish or break.
A tail cap bypass is an easy test to see if the switch is part of the problem with lights which have failed the dependablity factor however this trick also allows for an easy fix. I often carry aluminum foil as part of my kit for various reasons this being one. Yes it is flaky, no question about that but does work. Loose then tailcap and often it will go out, tighten the light goes back on. A little shake is sometimes required but not always needed. Clearly I would remove the foil plug when the light wasn't in immediate use plus duct tape could replace the outer cap if that was MIA. Field and home serviceability.
On.
A bit of twisting it goes off. Again it's not perfect but the field expedient fix took all of 3 seconds to do. I don't know if there are any dangers to doing this. There are other ways to do the tail cap bypass as well but this is a tail cap temporary replacement. Basically if your light somehow catches fire don't complain to me.
Off.
That's my first light which I believe is both durable and dependable. Will add more and hope to see yours!