Armytek prime c2 pro XP-L buzzing on high modes

I just got mine today, and the low modes seem to be fine, but when I double click to get to high modes, there is a high pitched buzzing sound on all 3 modes. Also it appears the 1st and 2nd high mode are the same. It just flickers when switching from the 1st to 2nd high mode. The 3rd high mode is definitely brighter though.

Is this user error or did I get a dud brand new out of the box?

Sounds like something loose inside.

Sounds like there's high resistance somewhere between the driver and the battery, the inductor is trying to pull current but the circuit can't quite provide it. I had a fenix that did this, physically scrubbing all the contacts and reassembling fixed it. Ymmv.

I cleaned and scrubbed it, and so far so good. I bought this light because of the 10 m drop resistance and waterproofing. It seems pretty solid and well built, so I hope my issue was a one time thing. I'm not going to purposely abuse it, but can anyone who's owned an armytek for a while comment on how well they have held up?

I have the first product that Armytek ever made. I bought it for the CPF meet. It is the Predator XP-G R5 in gold. It was better than its competitors 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 and Lumintop TD15 both XP-G R5.

It still works well, although i have moded mine with an XP-G2 S4. I still use it today and its taken a battering. I consider it to be a solid tool.

Excellent, I plan to use mine outdoors a lot, and I hope mine lasts the same.

For the battery, I have read that it takes unprotected 18650s as well. I also read on the instruction manual that you have to manually program it to take different battery types. I want to make sure I read it right. For the prime c2 pro, you only have to program it if using rcr123as, but it is ready to take 2 cr123a or 18560s (protected and unprotected). Or do you have to program it to take the unprotected 18650s?

TA_ls1 said:

I cleaned and scrubbed it, and so far so good. I bought this light because of the 10 m drop resistance and waterproofing. It seems pretty solid and well built, so I hope my issue was a one time thing. I'm not going to purposely abuse it, but can anyone who's owned an armytek for a while comment on how well they have held up?

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I've got a ArmyTek Prime A1 and it has held up well, gone swimming in 1.2 metre pool for about half an hour, been thrown onto concrete, been used as a hammer on wood, all the things an active 2.5 year old boy loves to do. Light is fine, no issues whatsoever, could it be the battery that you are using? Not that I am an expert on things electronic but perhaps it's the battery that cannot take the demands being made on it and starts to whine in protest.

hyperloop said:

I've got a ArmyTek Prime A1 and it has held up well, gone swimming in 1.2 metre pool for about half an hour, been thrown onto concrete, been used as a hammer on wood, all the things an active 2.5 year old boy loves to do. Light is fine, no issues whatsoever, could it be the battery that you are using? Not that I am an expert on things electronic but perhaps it's the battery that cannot take the demands being made on it and starts to whine in protest.

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Well that makes me feel better. It seems like it can take a beating. I'm thinking there was something affecting the connection and me rubbing down everything must've helped. I also tried 2 batteries, an Orbtronic 3400 mah protected and a nitecore 3400 protected 18650, and they both seem fine now. It's just strange to me that I had to do that with a brand new light. But all is still good so far.

Should not whine!!! Sound requires energy. So clearly there is a portion of the batteries energy being directed (wasted) to making noise not light.

oh man! OP I now have 5 of the latest AT's opened my wallet pretty darn wide for them over the past ten months. Aside from the first Viking Pro I was sent that had an emitter so far off center it was stuck under the reflector-replacement copy is fine-all function perfectly. Use them all a good bit as they were pretty pricey. So far so good. The output on the XP-L lights is freaking incredible. Modes well spaced the Pro models I can still turn on and off the strobe and firefly if I want leave everything on though. Still beyond impressed with the industry best anodizing and especially industry best optics. That is prescription grade glass and high quality prescription grade AR not cheap even in China. Reflectors are all very well done. Tail switches could be better they are a bit on the small side and do not have the Fenix tactile feel. The lanyards and holsters they all came with are top shelf quality. Love that the threads come slathered in Nyogel. Took a bit of getting used to the low voltage flashes etc I feel that could have been done better.

But...the whine sound...do NOT like hearing about that. Glad to hear a cleaning took care of it yes? Two of my 14 Eagletacs have suddenly developed a high pitched tone on certain modes driving me nuts. Should not do that. I am NOT sold on AT's driver. The hard tech specs on it just are not available. Its like some great mystery they only vaguely describe. Sometimes they claim the pill is potted. Okay cool. Then its "soft set" driver in the aluminum pill. From what I have read its not solid potting its a semi viscous like goo that allows the driver and guts to move around in which makes me uneasy. Is actually potting them really that difficult? Esp for a $100+ light?

I run Keeppower 3500mah 10amp cells exclusively they feed the hungry AT's without breaking a sweat. Lower older capacity cells with lower amp output get ate up pretty quick. Its just me but I just would not trust an unprotected flat top in any of them as I am not totally sold on AT's electronics because well....they dont post or provide the needed details.

CelticCross74 said:

oh man! OP I now have 5 of the latest AT's opened my wallet pretty darn wide for them over the past ten months. Aside from the first Viking Pro I was sent that had an emitter so far off center it was stuck under the reflector-replacement copy is fine-all function perfectly. Use them all a good bit as they were pretty pricey. So far so good. The output on the XP-L lights is freaking incredible. Modes well spaced the Pro models I can still turn on and off the strobe and firefly if I want leave everything on though. Still beyond impressed with the industry best anodizing and especially industry best optics. That is prescription grade glass and high quality prescription grade AR not cheap even in China. Reflectors are all very well done. Tail switches could be better they are a bit on the small side and do not have the Fenix tactile feel. The lanyards and holsters they all came with are top shelf quality. Love that the threads come slathered in Nyogel. Took a bit of getting used to the low voltage flashes etc I feel that could have been done better.

But...the whine sound...do NOT like hearing about that. Glad to hear a cleaning took care of it yes? Two of my 14 Eagletacs have suddenly developed a high pitched tone on certain modes driving me nuts. Should not do that. I am NOT sold on AT's driver. The hard tech specs on it just are not available. Its like some great mystery they only vaguely describe. Sometimes they claim the pill is potted. Okay cool. Then its "soft set" driver in the aluminum pill. From what I have read its not solid potting its a semi viscous like goo that allows the driver and guts to move around in which makes me uneasy. Is actually potting them really that difficult? Esp for a $100+ light?

I run Keeppower 3500mah 10amp cells exclusively they feed the hungry AT's without breaking a sweat. Lower older capacity cells with lower amp output get ate up pretty quick. Its just me but I just would not trust an unprotected flat top in any of them as I am not totally sold on AT's electronics because well....they dont post or provide the needed details.

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Thanks for your insight to armytek lights. I think I'll stick with protected 18650s, I have orbtronic and nitecore 3400 mAh cells, and I'll save my unprotected for my zebralights.

Now since cleaning it, I haven't had an issue, but I want this light to last a long time. Maybe I'm being paranoid, but what if the issue is internal and pops up again? The fact that there was a whine on all the normal modes and I lost a mode when the light was new worries me. Would you guys return it and order a new one?

thanks for the reply OP. How exactly did you clean it? My standard method is taking rubbing alcohol and Q tips, soaking one end of a Q tip in the alcohol and go over all the lights contact points then put back together oh and I also even swab each end of the 18650 cell youd be surprised at how much the battery alone can pick up. Usually 9 times out of 10 this method takes care of almost all ills. As far as I know there is nothing super specific required to properly clean and lube them like Eagletacs need(De-oxit Red). One thing I did totally notice is my first couple new AT's came out the box with their threads slathered with so much Nyogel that the gel was now also all over the contact point at the end of the threads so carefully wiped that part dry.

If it pops up again? Come back here first and post up about it. If the forum cannot help you out with do it yourself steps then it is likely some kind of defect. OP where did you buy the light? If it was from an independent retailer you should be good to go for returning/exchanging the light. If you bought off the AT site you are pretty much up a creek without a paddle. That first Viking Pro with half the emitter stuck under the reflector at first I tried actually going to AT about it. The instructions were just bizarre and shady. I was to pay for all shipping to and from China and what left me reeeeaally with a bad taste in my mouth was they insisted that I insure the light for only $15. Excuse me? I was told it was "to make shipping cheaper" huh? I was going to be the one paying shipping both ways my USPS office gave me a very good price I was fine with but AT still insisted that I only insure it for $15. HELL NO! The thing just cost me $105 plus shipping from a stateside retailer why on earth did they insist that I do that??? Totally set me off ever buying off the site. Went to the stateside retailer about the issue. After some back and forth not only did they send me a new Viking Pro that is nice and straight but they also never even asked for me to send the old one back. The old one is still sitting here in my office. Have NO idea what to do with it. Everything else is fine but the way off center emitter...hmm

Thanks CelticCross74, your cleaning methods sound really good. I used alcohol pads and paper towel to wipe, which seemed to work. You know, I bet it was the gel because there was a lot of it! I wiped a good amount of excess gel off.

I bought it online from a US retailer on Ebay. I was looking at buying from AT, but the shipping was like $20. So it was a much better overall price from the retailer I used. I am so glad I didn't use the AT site! That definitely sounds shady. So I wonder on how a warranty claim would go? I hope I never have to find out.

I really love this light so far though! I love the feel, beam, and the UI is growing on me. The colored indication on the switch is really cool too. And man is it bright on high! I also made sure my emitter was centered, it's cool they let you keep the off center one though, along with a new one.

Prime c2 warm owner here. Thrown it around a bit. Used as mountain bike light, and on the helmet too getting knocked by trees and branches and stuff. Still looks good - hard wearing and no issues.