Photography flashlights

legendofzelda

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What are some good photography flashlights?

Use cases
- light up a background
- light painting
- fill light
- key light
- rim light
- color gel over flashlight head

I'm a pro hobby photographer (just made that up).
 

staticx57

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For everything other than light painting you are much better off with some flashgun. Flashlights don't really work well for photography. Not enough light output.
 

stephenk

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Hi legendofzelda,

I'm into light painting and currently use the following lights:
LED Lenser P7QC - red, green, blue, and white light. Fast to switch between colours. 4xAAA.
LED Lenser P7.2 - great easy to use and well built zoomy, useful to adjust your "light brush".
Lumens Factory Seraph SP-6 with XP-G2 high-CRI module - I use this for warm white light 3000k.
2 x homemade LED light wands (one white, and one colour changing).

I also have a CPFitalia Cometa on the way, for even brighter zoomy-ness, if it doesn't short out!
 

legendofzelda

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Flood/throw combination is my preference. just ordered the tn36utvn from vin. Waiting on it to be built.

Hope it does the trick.

Stephenk I am into light painting actually.
 

StorminMatt

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For photography, I would look into getting something high CRI. Your best bet is a light equipped with the Nichia 219 emitter. There aren't a whole lot of options here when it comes to anything other than small, low output 1xAA and 1xAAA lights. But Eagletac actually makes a few Nichia 219 lights with decent output. Choose the D25A2 with the Nichia 219 for a AA light. The D25LC2 is a little more powerful, and is a nice, compact 1x18650 high CRI light when equipped with the Nichia 219. They also make more powerful, multi-emitter lights like the MX25L3C and MX30L4XC. These will certainly light up your subject better, but are larger and heavier lights. And the Noctigon Meteor is also available with the Nichia 219. Besides these ready-built lights, there are a number of P60 options using either single or triple Nichia 219 emitters. The Sportac Triple Nichia 219 is a good budget option here with GREAT performance. Combine this module with a Solarforce host, and you have an inexpensive high CRI light capable of close to 700 lumens.
 

legendofzelda

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Thank you for the detailed responses. Looking at the Noctigon Meteor M43 options. Which would be best for photography?

XP-G2 S4 2B | Cool White - Balance Option
7480 OTF Lumens | 33,600cd Intensity | 5700K
XP-G2 S3 3D | Neutral White - Balance Option
7010 OTF Lumens | 32,000cd Intensity | 4885K
Nichia 219C 70+/80+ CRI | Neutral White - This is probably the highest output 80+ CRI handheld light in existance! If color quality is your priority, then this is your light! The 70+ CRI version is nice too, with a big bump in output!
Normal 80+ CRI: 6700 OTF Lumens | 29,000cd Intensity | 5000K | 80+ CRI
Normal 70+ CRI: 7400 OTF Lumens | 32,000cd Intensity | 5000K | 70+ CRI
Enhanced Throw: 5500 OTF Lumens | 36,000cd Intensity | 4500K | 80+ CRI
The ET option sacrifices lumens for some additional intensity. The domes are shaved for a more intense hotspot. The tint is still excellent and very neutral.
Nichia 219B 90+ CRI | Neutral White - A compact 90+ CRI powerhouse!
4450 OTF Lumens | 20,000cd Intensity | 4885K | 90+ CRI
XP-G2 S2 5A | Neutral/Warm White
​6612 OTF Lumens | 30,080cd Intensity | 4000K
 
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legendofzelda

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Is the Eagletac mx30L4XC any good?

MX30L4XC
http://www.eagletac.com/html/mx30l4xc/index.html

"Powered by the twelve top binned Nichia 219B CRI-92 4500K D220 Neutral White LEDs (3300lm) or twelve twelve CREE XP-G2 S2 Cool White LEDs (4100lm). The MX30L4-XC gives you the maximum brightness output in its class"


2511350867a6cd45a3c1fd17b92e3191.jpg


1060f98e071ed7064ebf9bfd5839ed30.jpg
 

StorminMatt

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Is the Eagletac mx30L4XC any good?

MX30L4XC
http://www.eagletac.com/html/mx30l4xc/index.html

"Powered by the twelve top binned Nichia 219B CRI-92 4500K D220 Neutral White LEDs (3300lm) or twelve twelve CREE XP-G2 S2 Cool White LEDs (4100lm). The MX30L4-XC gives you the maximum brightness output in its class"


2511350867a6cd45a3c1fd17b92e3191.jpg


1060f98e071ed7064ebf9bfd5839ed30.jpg


I don't have this light. But I DO have the MX25L3C. And that is a GREAT light. It would appear that this light has actually replaced the MX25L3C in the Eagletac lineup. So I can't see it as being less good than the MX25L3C. With 12 vs 6 emitters, it is certainly a brighter light. However, it is also a larger and heavier light. But it should certainly get the job done for you.

I still maintain, that unless you are using it for video, a traditional flash is likely a better option.

Depends. A traditional flash is certainly a better option for shooting pictures of people than having them stand there as you do a long exposure while shining a flashlight at them. But flahlights have their advantages in other situations. Because they produce less light at once, flashlights can provide less harsh lighting. And you can generally get more even lighting in situations where the flash cannot light the entire area (ie less problems with overexposure in areas where light from the flash overlaps when doing multiple flashes or underexposure in missed areas). It is also easier to fill in shadows with a flashlight without creating similar areas of over and underexposure. Again, all of this depends on what you are shooting, as well as how much time you have.
 
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stephenk

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Stephenk I am into light painting actually.

Light painting can easily turn you into a flashaholic. Depending on whether you are illuminating a scene, of the light source is in the photo (e.g. light trails and brushes) will affect what lights you require.

For general illuminating (light washes) I would advise having a bright washy high-CRI light with neutral to warm tint. You may also want to look at zooming lights (so you can adjust the area of illumination), torches with different tints (maybe get a few Convoy S2+ with different tints), or different colours (the LED Lenser P7QC is a great choice for RGB). You can also use gels for colours other than RGB as well.

If the source of the light is in the photo, you may need a diffuser (cheaply available online), or you can get some plastic tubing and stick various light brushes in them (such as acrylic rods, acrylic blades, fibre optics, soda bottle, etc).
 

legendofzelda

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ok scored 2 good lights so far..

Fenix TK35UE (neutral flood/throw mix)
The older TK35UE has a neutral tint. Newer model is cool white.

TN36-UTvn (neutral flood)
Uh uh uh this thing is so powerful. Great for lighting an entire scene.

Now I just need a smaller neutral light for lighting people's faces.

Any ideas on a smaller light?
 

ven

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Maybe along the lines of the eagtac D25c ti, nichia flavour..............make a nice EDC light too:)
 

StorminMatt

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Any ideas on a smaller light?

Here are a few options.

L3 Illuminations L10/L10C - They're small, quite inexpensive, and available with the Nichia 219. They also run on common AA batteries. A GREAT light if your lighting needs are modest and you wish to travel light.

Eagletac D25A2 Nichia 219 - Also runs on AA batteries (two). And output is the same as the D25C Nichia. A good alternative to that light if you would rather run AA batteries than CR123a/16340. The 1xAA D25A is smaller, but MUCH dimmer. Especially with the Nichia 219. It is also pricier (but little brighter) than the L3 Illuminations L10, but can run on a 14500 and is available in titanium.

Eagletac D25LC2 Nichia 219 - Somewhat higher output than the D25C/D25A2. Runs on 18650, so runtime is MUCH longer than either of those. Quite compact. The D25C2 is similar, but is thinner and needs a 16650 rather than 18650. Both D25C2 and D25LC2 can run on 2xCR123a (but NOT 2x16340). The D25LC2 is preferable due to its ability to run an 18650.

Zebralight SC52d - Lower output but higher CRI than the more popular SC52/SC52w. Slightly cooler output than the Nichias, but still high CRI. Peak output is fairly high for the size of the light, and it will run on AA or 14500. LOTS of modes. Very compact.

Zebralight SC62c/d - Lower output but higher CRI than the more popular SC62/SC62w. The Philips Luxeon T in the SC62c produces a warmer white than the Nichia 219, and is good for subjects with warmer colors. The SC62d uses the same cooler Philips Luxeon T as the SC52d. Both use an 18650 battery and run for a long time.

P60 - Anything goes here. Choose from a wide variety of emitter choices and configurations as well as reflector types. Hosts vary from cheap Solarforce L2 hosts to expensive customs. P60 modules can likewise vary WIDELY in price. With its bright 'wall of light' and low $35 price tag, the Sportac Triple Nichia is quite possibly the best high CRI deal on Earth, PERIOD. Choose the two mode module if you want a lower setting. But other modules might work well, including those sold by Mountain Electronics, Customlites (Nailbender), and Vinh. Build your own light here, and possibly for FAR less than other options.
 
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ven

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+1 to the p60's , so much flexibility there ! Think as your host as the camera, the different drop ins(p60's) as your lenses. Some with different tints, some throwy and others floody . So many options to go at, the sportac triples are great value along with the edc+ triples .

Sportac nichia is fantastic,maybe 4500k ,the xp-g2 for a cool triple is nice too as its a very clean cool white(no greens/blues etc). Maybe 6000k .

The edc+ neutral I would put between 4000-4500 from the xp-g2. Always starts in high which may be of use!

The malkoff neutral is a stunning 4000k of flood/throw, really nice beam for close up kind of work/shots.

Then the big boys , quads(p60vn) where you can pick your led type and have a programable driver to suit uses.

Adventure spott(VOB) does some amazing drop ins too, the xhp70 5000k produces a perfect wall of light!

Xhp70 is de-domed and looses around 500k, love it!!! It will light up a field with ease(phone can not pick it up well) . No hot spot past a metre! Just flood
 

bykfixer

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What are some good photography flashlights?

Use cases
- light up a background
- light painting
- fill light
- key light
- rim light
- color gel over flashlight head

I'm a pro hobby photographer (just made that up).

What camera are you using?

I say that as certain brands tend to have algarithms that bias certain directions. Some brands have models that tend to bias different than other models.

I kinda got away from photography after reading a book by a fellow who travelled to all 50 states in the US leaving all of his camera gear at home.
He took an LG envy with him and let it do what it did without any tailoring of settings. As time passed he learned to predict the cameras good and bad. He arrived home with some pretty cool photos.

Basically ever since my 'good'
cameras get used occasionally for a portrait here n there or a macro. I carry a wide angle Canon p&s and an iphone now.

But prior to that I used 'gray' cards against a few different backgrounds to get a sense of what my Nikons biased towards and found that diffusers over radio controlled flashes did what I needed.
I tweaked the camera internally (deep into the settings menu) to add a pinch of green with one and remove a dash of red with another. That resulted in what I saw on the screen matching pretty close to what I saw in real life.

Flashlights are now used to light what's in the bag to find batteries or perhaps briefly to determine where the flash for fill light could be tailored.

The idea of using the flashlight to complete the lighting required is not a new thing. But with todays tint 'flavors' it opens up a lot of possibilities.
But first you should know what your camera "lacks" in a faithful reproduction of the real world.
Second is to understand any lighting in the scene. Artificial background lighting changes everything. Even just a little light. Say you are in your backyard at night but the lights of a streetlight, or light pollution from a shopping mall, although hardly noticed can change things dramatically vs moon light, or complete darkness.

Once you understand the camera and how it reacts to the world around it... then a nice neutral white beam will be what provides the best additional light.

All these fancy new LED emitters with all their biases will trick your camera into things you may have to edit out later. That's why diffused flashes are so popular. They do not add or subtract from the color rendition your camera is trying to mimic versus what the world "really" looks like.

But for curiosity sake, to get a sense of what your camera will produce the closest thing to pure white light from a flooder light would be the most predictable. One with infinite (or at least 5) brightness levels will let you dial intensity up or down like an adjustable flash.

Here's a neat little trick to provide a wee bit of good ole sunshine warmth to your artificial lighting.


A Fuji film case over the emitter of a flashlight shown for effect.
Slide one over a flash, it diffuses everything and adds a tiny bit of warmth causing colors to "pop" like sunshine does. It sounds crazy but it works.

Many electronics come with a white film over it. That works too. Also in a pinch a white plastic grocery bag.

Wanna add some nifty artifacts to the light, place bubble wrap over the lens. The smaller the bubbles, the better.

Want to spot? Make a 'snoot' of some sort. A round tube placed over which ever lighting device you use.

But in a few words, well diffused, pure white with ample adjustability will provide the most predictable results.
 
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