Here are some instructions I have put together for programming the Tri-V. (I must credit Data for writing most of this up - I just compiled it from several different postings) I believe it was the first to come out with this type of programming and then the Spy007 lights followed shortly I believe with the first XP-G versions.
For the purpose of the Spy007:
- Omit steps 2 through 6.
- Replace the word 'spinning' with 'blinking" as there is only one emitter.
Spy Tri-V Light Engine Programming
• PU1 is to select the configuration. A total of 4 configurations can be used.
• PU2 is the lock; same as in the 007
• PU3 is the calibrate; same as in the 007
• PU4 is the light engine programming
• PU5 is the power level report
• PU6 is the battery meter; same as in the 007
If you choose to program the Tri-V you will need to read the following text and view the videos. Of course it is not necessary to ever change the power levels if you are happy with the default factory configuration. But having said that I know most of you will want to play. This really is the point of the Tri-V, it will morph into the light you need, not the one I think you need.
When you make changes to the settings on the Tri-V, there is a progression that you will follow. There are flashes from the LEDs to let you know you are moving through the stages. First you choose the knob position you want to modify, then you select the emitter(s) you want on that position, then you again choose the knob position you want to modify, and select the power level you want.
The power-up-4, abbreviated as "PU4", lets you select the emitter(s) you want on and input the current they will run at. It does this in two stages. The first stage is the "emitter stage" and the second stage is the "power stage". The user will see the transition between the two stages. It is denoted by a quick bright flash of the reflector called the "stage transition flash".
Let's say you want to associate a knob position with a different emitter than it is currently set to. In this case you will have to enter the emitter stage and the power stage. If however, you only want to change the current on one of the positions, you can skip over the emitter stage and go right to the power stage.
As you enter each stage I say the three emitters are spinning but really they are simply lighting up one after another in a way that makes them look like the light is chasing around in a circle. They do this for 10 seconds and it is your cue to set the knob position. As the LED's are spinning the computer is not looking at the switch so it does not matter what positions you move the knob through. It only matters what position the knob is in when at the end of the 10 seconds when the LED's stop spinning.
To break this down into steps I created this list but you might read it and watch the video together to aid in understanding it. These are the programming steps for setting emitters and power levels:
1. power-up-4 (you are now in the emitter stage)
2. while lights are spinning, select knob position (in the video I chose position 2)
3. toggle knob back and forth till desired emitter combination is on
4. set knob to the off position, this starts the lights spinning again (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step two)
5. wait for the "stage transition flash" (you are now in the power stage)
6. while lights are spinning, select knob position to modify (in the video I chose position 2)
7. set the knob to home position P1 (the flood will be flashing to let you know you are there)
8. key in the sequence to set the power level (see definitions below, in the video I set it at 220mA)
9. set knob to the off position P0
10. light will spin for 10 seconds and end (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step six)
11. the light will perform a calibration for the settings you modified (this takes several seconds)
12. the light is now ready for use **
** if the light cannot be turned on, perform a power-up-0, all the programming will be retained.
Knob/Switch position definitions to key in power levels (F=flood, R=reflector, A=asphere):
• knob position 0 = off
• knob position 1 = home (F is flashing)
• knob position 2 = +1mA (R is on)
• knob position 3 = +10mA (A is on)
• knob position 4 = +100mA (R & A are on)
• knob position 5 = not used
• knob position 6 = -0.1mA (for <5mA settings)