Another "SuperCRI" module I made a year or so ago... Mule config only but interesting idea from a member who was persistent enough to push me into making it...
Rocking H17(-F) and still going strong...
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Another "SuperCRI" module I made a year or so ago... Mule config only but interesting idea from a member who was persistent enough to push me into making it...
Rocking H17(-F) and still going strong...
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Last edited by Tana; 06-13-2019 at 02:45 PM.
Interesting build there.
Very cool, like it![]()
The beauty of Haiku Tripled...
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Last edited by Tana; 01-15-2020 at 03:51 AM.
It's a great light Tarik. I've borrowed Ven's one and I loved it.
P
"O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" He chortled in his joy.
Yes, but the haiku has a great reflector. I still prefer a super LE than a triple in this litlle light, a Tana super LE of course...
Sent you an email but thought I’d reach out here too. I’ve got an original style (non-HRU) Sundrop that I’d like to upgrade with one of your engines. Would the SuperLE be a viable option? I’m thinking about a warm Nichia 219b for the emitter. Thanks!
Not to answer for Tana, but a point of info: The first post in the below thread describes and illustrates the clearance differences in the two Sundrop heads, and gives measurements for emitter height...
I'm following this because I too have an original Sundrop I wouldn't mind a bit more output from.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...d-SunDrop-XR-U
The TK20. Yes, it still rocks- WoodsWalker
I will let Tarik know , will send a link
Like Spaceman said, I did get an email and already replied... I am aware there are two different versions of Sundrop heads and knew to some degree what the difference is using different LEDs, etc...
Like I told him I'm building one just these days for member in Germany... the way I approached it is to make it possible to use in both Haiku and Sundrop without need for spacer/insulator on any part of board to prevent short against smaller diameter in Sundrop or wider in Haiku/Mule... all while keeping in mind those tiny tolerances that can be seen even in comparation between older and newer Sundrops, not just between Haiku/Mule and Sundrop in general...
Hi everyone, I haven’t found how you change the programming on the Lana LE as I just picked up a McGizmo Mule with the Lana LE and am trying to change it. Right now it is super dim, dim then super bright. On the chart I guess group 10 is what I want on the chart. Thanks for your help.
Reese
I can't find a programming guide, but this should get you there...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...=1#post4930648
I think there's a list of mode groups at the beginning of this thread.
P
"O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" He chortled in his joy.
Maybe this can be of help?
Sorry for delay... I didn't check CPF in a while but I believe that you found me on FB as I had same question in messages about 10 days ago... it was H17F driver and SuperLE module...
Hi Tana/all - I just unearthed my old McLux III PD! what mods could be done to get it "modernized" ? I'm guessing only a LED swap given the piston drive/twisty mechanics...
I was also in the market for your mods, Tana. I spoke with datiLED about UV light engines, and am now looking to take my first descent into the Tana mods rabbit hole. Particularly, I'm interested in the Super LE first, will likely get into a triple conversion when I've got some more funds. What's everybody's current consensus on the favorite LED for the super LE?
• 2700k 219C HDS Rotary • 3900k HDS Clicky • 4500k 219B HDS (Bare Al) Rotary •
• 5700k (High Noon) HDS Clicky • 6200k XP-G2 Orange HDS Rotary • Ra-85-Tr •
• UV 365nm HDS Rotary • FreLux Synergy2 • 4500k XPL RD BOSS •
Thank you for the reply, not long at all Tana! Looking forward to your work.
I've read the whole thread, and I have a few questions, if anyone feels inclined. I had thought that in order to get a Tana LE, I would need to send my head to him, and he would send the head back with the LE installed. However, in answer to this question when asked earlier in the thread, it was explained that you just unscrewed the old one from you head and add the new one. Now I'm thinking its only necessary to send the head when it requires modification, such as with wanting a triple, otherwise a single led Tana LE would be like a drop-in, and you just unscrew and remove the old LE and screw in the new one. Am I understanding this correctly? If so, does the new Tana LE still use the old reflector or come with a new different reflector, like a P60 drop-in would.
My second question on which I would appreciate people's opinions on is when you get a Haiku triple from Tana, do you "retire" the old McGizmo LE, or get a second head so that you can use both. I am trying to understand the strong preference people have for the triple in the Haiku since I have heard so much about how great the McGizmo Haiku is as provided by Don. I am considering getting one, and trying to understand what to start with. I have several triples and a quad, all Nichias, in my 18650 and 1835 lights, but not in my smaller lights, which the Haiku would be. On the one hand, a Tana triple would turn the smaller light into more of a larger light experience. But since it was designed as an excellent one led smaller light, I wonder what am I giving up and why people prefer the triple.
Thanks in advance.
I’ll jump in since Tana is sleeping and i’m beeing in the night shift (near Tana).
In order to get Super LE you DON’T have to send the head. Tana will make you one by your preference. When you receive it, remove the old LE from the head (Aleph, Haiku, Mule, Mahi, Sundrop or Makai) and install Super LE. That’s it.
You can do with old LE whatever you like.
When it comes to triples and quads then it’s essential to send the Head because it will be striped off components and converted by Tana’s magic to a rocket you choose (depends on the head).
I hope i explained it right
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The LE does not come with a new reflector but uses the one from yor light.
The Haiku might not be smaller than your 18350 lights. Most likely thinner (at least in some parts of the body) but not necessarily smaller. I have a few triple lights that are smaller than my Haikus, BOSS 35, Okluma DC1, Reylight Gemini I and Krystal (which is a quad).
Last edited by Eric242; 12-28-2020 at 02:39 AM.
Move Through The Light .... With Caution
My Collection.......... just click on me if interested
Eric242 and id30209,
Thanks for your replies. You have explained what I was trying to understand. Regarding the length, I understand that will depend on the bodies chosen. I have been guessing that with an AA body, its about as long and thin as a Malkoff MDC. With a 123 body it would be shorter, but thicker body, and with a double 123 body, to hold a 16650, about as long as my Malkoff MD2, but thinner body. Does this sound right?
Is the Haiku head about the size that a P60 drop in fits, ~1.25", or is it smaller, more like the head on an MDC, if you are familiar with that light? Finally, if you are not too tired answering questions, do you happen to know the size of the Mahi head? Thanks again.
The Haiku head is about 35mm long x 24mm diameter and the Mahi about 41mm long x 34mm diameter (measured with a ruler since I don´t own a caliper).
Move Through The Light .... With Caution
My Collection.......... just click on me if interested
Eric242,
Thank you so much for going to the trouble to measure your heads. This is exactly what I need to know to give me a sense of how big they are. How do you like the Mahi beam compared to the Haiku?
Thanks guys for jumping in... Tragedy struck us the whole December, I was in isolation for 14 days due to virus exposure... now getting back on track...
Anyone intrested in details on mods, best write to my email: tanaworkshop@hotmail.com
Glad you're okay now Tarik.
P
"O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" He chortled in his joy.
Health first, glad you are doing ok!
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