The most reliable switch design.

I guess Im semi-retired at this point.....:thinking:

Anywho......

Whats your preferred switch setup based on the principle of reliability / durability / longevity????? Anyone have any ideas that aren't out in the wild? I've pondered this many of hours and have a few ideas, but I'd like to see others opinions and maybe catch a design thats out there that I may not be aware of. Please keep it to practical flashlight switches or perhaps maybe a technology that would be realistic in this role.

Looking forward to peoples comments and replies!


- FORREST

Hey there Forrest, hope all is well

I am sure i have read out of clickies, the reverse is stronger over the forward type. But for me, has to be along the lines of an OR twisty like the triad. This has a zerRex twisty which will take what ever A you can throw at it........Not a clicky, but also nothing to fail like clickies can. For an overall set up, reliability /durability and longevity, a twisty for me us up top.



Right now i am throwing a couple of IMR 16340's through it, feeding an xhp70 de-dome drop in( awesome drop in )


On the couple of mcClicky switches i have, i am not that impressed. None have failed but its the feel, too sensitive or too LOUD! Thats me though

Same sentiments as Ven, the Zero resistance twisty is probably the most fail safe switch u can find..
And it can take all the current you throw at it..

For a clicky, I like the McClicky switch. Known to be very reliable, threaded for easy installation and replacement, replacements are available, and current rating is high enough for most EDC applications and thermal constraints.

Most reliable? Twisty with solid contacts. The weak point then becomes the threads of the host.

Practically speaking the McClicky module makes a lot of sense for a reliable switching method without wearing the host out first. The downside would be for pocket rockets or contact issues due to using springs.

Anyone had a MAGLITE switch fail that?

Alkaleak damage not included.

Twisty, without a doubt

LeanBurn said:

Anyone had a MAGLITE switch fail that?

Alkaleak damage not included.

Click to expand...

Yes I have, back in the day. A doddle to replace though.
P

LeanBurn said:

Anyone had a MAGLITE switch fail that?

Alkaleak damage not included.

Click to expand...

Yup.

Not just fail but pop out of the body. Keep in mind, it wasn't dropped. Also, can't agree about Twisties being most reliable. Had those fail on me too. My vote goes to momentary-on switches. Like the ones on the SureFire 6P, G2, C2, etc. Never had one of those fail on me. I thought one did on one of my G2s but turned out to be a defective bulb right out of the packaging.

archimedes said:

Twisty, without a doubt

Click to expand...

Monocrom said:

.... Also, can't agree about Twisties being most reliable. Had those fail on me too. My vote goes to momentary-on switches. Like the ones on the SureFire 6P, G2, C2, etc. Never had one of those fail on me. I thought one did on one of my G2s but turned out to be a defective bulb right out of the packaging.

Click to expand...

To clarify, I am referring (only) to mechanical twisty here ... not electronic / multimode twisty

I was specifically thinking of the 6P, in fact. And, yes, I consider that a twisty ( just one with essentially a sliding plunger portion to allow for momentary on - totally different than a "clicky" )

I have had failures in every type of switches I have tried ... although the fewest failures with mechanical twisties.

The 6P type failure was a jammed plunger. It still worked as a true twisty, but the momentary press feature was disabled. So, not sure if or how you want to count that as a failure, since even broken the twisty was still functional

EDIT - and I agree with @Monocrom that I have had electronic twisty switch malfunctions (such as on Quark Mini type torches) associated with loose threads and thread wear.

a "electronic switch" is almost the same as the surefire momentary. But the driver is programmed to know what to do when it gets a "momentary" impulse from the switch. Its just a spring that holds up a contact, and when you press it down it makes contact. Hard to kill. I rarely have failures on a electronic switch. Never had a failure on a flashlight, but on a keyboard and a gaming mouse that have seen years of fast clicking. probably just dirt, food crumbles, or something on the contacts.

Yes archimedes and monocrom, twisty to me as in 6p or c2 or triad etc with the momentary mechanical forward on type. On top of this, the triad tail takes the spring out of the equation for a solid brass fitting. Nothing to get tired over time or suffer from higher A. Not too sure what the 6p twisty is rated for, maybe 5 or 6a ........dont know(could be 3a) although a none issue with standard p60 set ups.

A normal twisty to me is not something i would call dependable as usually on smaller lights with smaller threads which would be more susceptible to wear although given a lot of use over long periods, no doubt they will get sloppy.

The most reliable I've ever seen...


Slider raises battery to touch bulb. Lowers battery to break contact.


Remove bulb for pocket turn on prevention.

1938 tech.

Best part...it was never patented. lol

A well maintained slider aint nuthin' to sneeze at.

Don't think anyone can argue mr fixer at 78yrs young :laughing:

Twisty for sure. Wether it be a Surefire twisty with momentary forward, or a battery crusher like an E01, Peak, or Arc AAA.

Hmmmmm,........? No one's mentioned a piston yet? Highly dependable and still up there with the best.

I find that piston drives require more maintenance than most other switch types to keep functioning smoothly and properly

In modern lights I prefer the twist to on type.
Yet the clicky is growing on me.

I like Elzettas near silent clicky's where you 'feel' it reach the point of engagement in noisy surroundings.
You feel McClickys pop too, but they are more audible than the Elzetta.